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A few small changes. Car has around 106K on it now.
We moved from the AEM Infinity to the MoTec M130. I also went to DBW. DBW offers faster starting, better idle control, rolling antilag, easier power management and less harsh limiters to slow the engine. I also went to an Exedy twin since the ACT 6 puck didn't deal well with high torque low rpm stuff and wore out rather quickly. Bought a new OEM trans and shipped it TRE to be built. Went from a 4.11 final drive to 4.31 final as well. Car feels quicker around town but spins the tires easier. It should be faster at the drag strip but I think I prefer the 4.11 around town . I still have the trans sitting aside.
Also went to an HTZ Red but kept the HTA incase I ever need it. Its a good idea to install a turbosmart oil pressure regulator for both BB units. The slight oil issue I had is gone.
Car gets driven a few times a week hard.
Manifold is not. I had a boost creep issue on my stock engine/cams so we ported the wastegate entry of the turbo for better boost control.
I don't think porting does very much unless its a max effort/big turbo deal and someone knows what they are doing.
Are you using the JRR firmware? If so, how do you like it?
Do you find that the M130 has enough I/Os to log everything you want to log? I can't decide if I want the M130 plus an I/O expander in the future, or if I should just bite the bullet and go M150 right out of the gate.
Curious to hear why you dumped AEM and went the Motec route. Was there something it didnt do that you wanted? I put an Infinity in my car a few months ago and really cant complain. And why not go to the PNP M800 over M130?
Manifold is not. I had a boost creep issue on my stock engine/cams so we ported the wastegate entry of the turbo for better boost control.
I don't think porting does very much unless its a max effort/big turbo deal and someone knows what they are doing.
You are running the OEM Manifold? If so it's nice to know that there aren't any gains going to a fancy expensive unit on a stock frame turbo.
Are you using the JRR firmware? If so, how do you like it?
Do you find that the M130 has enough I/Os to log everything you want to log? I can't decide if I want the M130 plus an I/O expander in the future, or if I should just bite the bullet and go M150 right out of the gate.
I am using the JRR software and pnp harness. Its a nice package and I am logging what I need to log on a street car. The JRR firmware is GPR with a couple nice touches John adds. Most of the value it offers is based off it being cheaper as it's locked to one trigger pattern. You can't put your Evo firmware on a WRX BUT if you'd purchased GPR for $1150 you'd be able to take that same M130 and put it on many different engines. The JRR firmware also offers custom things to be added in the future that may not be adapted into GPR like diff control. I've attached the spec sheet of the m130/150 etc. The biggest question would be if you are going to run 8 injectors then move into the m150. With any ECU or modification its important to list all your goals or work with a build adviser that can help you achieve the desired results.
Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks
Curious to hear why you dumped AEM and went the Motec route. Was there something it didnt do that you wanted? I put an Infinity in my car a few months ago and really cant complain. And why not go to the PNP M800 over M130?
I was able to learn the stock ecu , then infinity . I also wanted to learn MoTec. I'm comfortable making changes/checking logs but leave the majority of changes to my Tuner. The M800 was born around 2000, it's a great platform but the M1 series is a very updated version with on board knock and closed loop idle control along with a host of other options a software company would advance with in that respective timeframe. MoTec hardware/firmware works well.
Originally Posted by High_PSI
You are running the OEM Manifold? If so it's nice to know that there aren't any gains going to a fancy expensive unit on a stock frame turbo.
I have an unported FP manifold . I didn't compare its flow to a stock one,but can you tell my car spools up as well as any other Fp red /mivec car and makes good power out the top. I think its a great idea for a stock frame car.
Ran the car on the dyno for a check up. 85* weather and humid. Air wasn't as good as Nov 2016 but still made 500 lb ft for a bit. The original wastegate actuator broke and the replacement doesn’t seem to hold the boost out the top as well. I’m going to move into the adjustable Turbosmart wastegate.
Sidenote, I'm not the biggest fan of the 4.31 final drive. I'd prefer having the 4.11FD back for the wide powerband this car has and the tire I'm running.
Do you mind explaining how does the "rolling Anti-Lag" work with T-Throttle?
Thank you.
A true anti-lag system will bypass compressed air back into the exhaust system. That style system may work better but is more complex. Either system is harder on parts/turbochargers.
Lets discuss Rolling anti lag first. This feature is available on most aftermarket ecu's.
There are a few ways to do it with an aftermarket ecu but most use a switch or the ebrake handle to trigger it. With a Drive by wire TB, it will open the TB fully to allow air into the engine while retarding timing to aid spool up and adding fuel. The vehicle doesn't accelerate much until the switch is released.
There is also Rally Anti lag . I use one of the positions on my trim switch for that. When its enabled it will activate whenever the pedal position is less then 20-30%.
I've used Rally anti lag a few times and its brutal with a small turbo. I don't like the idea of 400 +lb ft instantly being applied to the driveline coming off decel on my streetcar. I like to gradually load up my stock 100K mile Tcase. LOL
Sidenote, I'm not the biggest fan of the 4.31 final drive. I'd prefer having the 4.11FD back for the wide powerband this car has and the tire I'm running.
Ive done a couple years on the 4.11 now and with the smaller turbo I run I really dont have lag coming out of corners that 4.53s would solve and I find the power we make is at the point where more means easier mistakes. But man, being able to rev 2nd to 75-76 is amazing for AX. I sometimes think about going back to a 4.31 but not sure I'll ever bother since this works pretty well.
I do recall you were less than happy with it at first but sounds like you tried both and now prefer the 4.11 too?
Ive done a couple years on the 4.11 now and with the smaller turbo I run I really dont have lag coming out of corners that 4.53s would solve and I find the power we make is at the point where more means easier mistakes. But man, being able to rev 2nd to 75-76 is amazing for AX. I sometimes think about going back to a 4.31 but not sure I'll ever bother since this works pretty well.
I do recall you were less than happy with it at first but sounds like you tried both and now prefer the 4.11 too?
(Regarding this smallish stock frame MHI turbo and final drive)
I was less happy on the stock turbo at 350wtq with the 4.11. It lost 7mph and .6 in the 1/4 within two weeks at the same power level. Sadface.
At 400wtq the 4.11 wasn't too bad on the 2.0 . Slower then a 4.53 final drive car for sure but still nice around town and the roadcourse.
At 450+ on the 2.2 the 4.11 was a great match for the tires I'm running and my setup. It would haze the tires slightly and move out hard in the lower gears. Now it just spins even at less power with the 4.31.
Now, on a drag strip with proper tires/traction you want to run the shortest gearing you can that will still make power thru the finish line. I'd bet the car would go 2-4 tenths faster on the 4.31 then the 4.11 if it was crossing at 7500-7700. Using a gear calculator it goes 135 in 4th at 8000 with a 25" tire on the 4.31. With the 4.11 it would go 141.
Ran the car on the dyno in august. Didn't dial the boost controller in but made 467 @21psi and 528 @25psi on E85
I’ve had a blast reading through your journey with your car (many times over lol), it’s the best documented power up for an evo imho.
I look at it as the absolute dream build for a daily that can be taken down the 1/4 mile one weekend & the track (road course) the next. You have some great miles on her, with fantastic reliability after all the track work.
Apr 4, 2019, 07:44 PM
