Don't cut oem fuel pump wire. Strip plastic to expose bare wire. Wrap 10awg jumper wire and solder in parallel.

 

And the ground (with one end bolted to seat belt anchor) and hatch cover with foam seal cut so these extra wires can pass through easier.

 

Correct. There is a catch: if Hobbs switch gets stuck closed loop, it will keep pump running at max power. As a precaution, the chasis grounding leg should go to driver's seat for button switch to break connection as it is then grounded to frame.

Since I'm suggesting supplementing the power with Hobbs switch, I suggest using Hobbs switch to control STM jumper relay on negative leg. The power source is from battery (add 15A fuse instead of their 30A before connecting to battery post). Use this 10awg power source wire and solder to STM relay #30 (blue wire). STM relay #87A (red wire) is not used. Solder #87 (yellow wire) to OEM fuel pump white wire (again, DO NOT cut OEM white wire, we are supplementing it by jumping it). STM relay #86 (black wire) connect this to STM relay #30 to get power to switch on relay. SYM relay #85 (white wire) - extend and run this to driver's seat and solder to (normally closed) button switch and the other leg of button switch to chassis ground. This button switch is very similar to alarn trunk sensors that stays closed until button is pressed to open circuit.

 

I agree with you that the wires should not be cut after I drew out a diagram to figure out how the fuel pump gets power in this configuration.

All that needs to happen is the white wire is stripped and #86 wire and #87 are connected with it. Then necessary grounds to complete the circuit.

However, the hobbs switch should be NO (normally open). In other words, turned off until it sees boost. That way when it energizes under boost and the circuit is complete (#86 and #85 coil has power and relay energizes). If it was NC then the opposite would happen.

 

Correct. Hobbs I've seen are NO. I'm saying to add a breaker button switch in series with Hobbs as emergency cutoff of Hobbs get stuck closed.

 

I definitely recommend adding a small 18 or 20 awg wire back to connect to volt meter. As you've connected #86 & #87 to oem white power wire, add this too. This way, if the 15A fuse blows, Hobbs switch, or STM relay fails, you will see only 12V when boosting. When rewire is working, you will see 13.5-14.2V. That way, if you don't see more than 12V, stop boosting because you're likely running lean.

 

So it sounds like you guys telling me not to install a Walbro 450. That I should only do the 255 until I get a new turbo/reinforced long block. Is this correct? Am I not able to progressively step this along and not buy double equipment?

How does one pick the appropriate injector size? I watched the ID video you posted Abacus. Thank you. They clearly make nice stuff and aren't that much more expensive. I stopped by the shop that is going to be tuning the car also today. P&L out of Lisle, IL. They also sell Injector Dynamics. They said they have the Mits tuner come in every other week (their bread and butter is Subbie's) but they work on a wide variety of vehicles.

2006EvoIXer I appreciate all the technical information. I just really don't want to have to spend extra money and time doing things twice. I HATE that with a passion.

 

If you keep your stock pump until you upgrade your turbo, you're not upgrading twice. I'm just suggesting you prepare for Wally 450 swap when you upgrade your turbo and injectors at same time. I agree not to upgrade twice since it sucks to sell used parts (too many low ballers. )

 

If you have a healthy engine, you can make 550whp with FP Red or Black. You will need a good tuner to keep your torque around 400 ft-lbs.

 

I thought I couldn't do e85 on a stock fuel pump and injectors? So I would HAVE to get these two items if was going e85.

So go find a an FP red, some injectors, and a new pump then tune for e85.

P&L quoted $1,045 to do a dual map tune. e85 and 93.

 

My bad. I forgot you wanted to go E85. In this case, you may as well drop in the Wally 450 and injectors and be done with it. $1045 is really expensive. You may want to check around and maybe even do remote tune.

Have you done compression test yet?

 

I came up with the # from adding together everything that is "required" for the tune itself.

 

No. I intend to do that this week.

 

Wow 300 bux to do injectors! I wouldn't waste the money on 1050's, step up to 1650's or somn.

Did they say who the tuner is that comes in every other week?

 

No. I wanted to ask but I was busy trying to vet the shop and forgot to ask.