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If you can install a fuel pump, you can easily install your own injectors. Buy ID1700 and install them yourself in the winter. If you have a decent sized air tank, you can make or buy a boost leak adaptor with a pressure gauge. The only thing you need from them is tuning. Make sure you do your research and find a good tuner who won't blow your engine.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; May 21, 2018 at 09:43 PM.
If you don't have a compression gauge, you can borrow one from AutoZone. You can also buy online for about $40-$50 for one that works fine. A compression gauge is your friend and you will use it often to keep tabs on your engine's health.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; May 21, 2018 at 09:46 PM.
If you can install a fuel pump, you can easily install your own injectors. Buy ID1700 and install them yourself in the winter. If you have a decent sized air tank, you can make or buy a boost leak adaptor with a pressure gauge. The only thing you need from them is tuning. Make sure you do your research and find a good tuner who won't blow your engine.
Can I install these injectors and the 450 pump now before the tune or will it drastically change the drive-ability of the car over the Walbro 255 and ID 1050's they are suggesting?
Can I install these injectors and the 450 pump now before the tune or will it drastically change the drive-ability of the car over the Walbro 255 and ID 1050's they are suggesting?
Unfortunately the ecu has to be calibrated for the larger injectors. Luckily there is a ton of documentation on this site about what the different calibrations are for different injectors, just do a search for the injectors you are installing and "scalings". What you could easily do is find the ones for your new injectors and put them in yourself, and that should get you to the tuner were he can dial them in the rest of the way.
Unfortunately the ecu has to be calibrated for the larger injectors. Luckily there is a ton of documentation on this site about what the different calibrations are for different injectors, just do a search for the injectors you are installing and "scalings". What you could easily do is find the ones for your new injectors and put them in yourself, and that should get you to the tuner were he can dial them in the rest of the way.
Scalings. Thank you Biggie. I will begin my research tonight.
Ok being EXTRA clear. My intention is to do the fuel pump and injectors then take the car to the tuner. P&L said I will be booked around the 11th-13th or June time frame. As of right now they have 40ish people signed up for tuning.
So so can I still do the fuel mods then take or tow the vehicle to the tuner?
Ok being EXTRA clear. My intention is to do the fuel pump and injectors then take the car to the tuner. P&L said I will be booked around the 11th-13th or June time frame. As of right now they have 40ish people signed up for tuning.
So so can I still do the fuel mods then take or tow the vehicle to the tuner?
if you are going to get it tuned, install pump but not injectors to carefully drive there. Get there early and swap in your bigger injectors there. But if you are going to pay for a tune, you need to do your other mods (turbo?). And go through a pretune checklist (such as boost leak test). Make your tuning session count.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; May 22, 2018 at 10:30 AM.
Well as to let you all know it looks like I have burned/leaky piston rings. I did a compression test and my numbers were low on all cylinders. 95, 95, 90, 105. I poured some oil in from 2006EvoIXer suggestion and the numbers increased significantly. So no matter. We are going to do an engine build and then swap that into the car over the winter. 600hp reliable DD for the wife here we come.
Besides the the main reason the car was on the jack stands was damage from drivers front strut blown from a service shop and beginning to move to a coilover setup. So she will get reassembled and driven the rest of the year. Come winter the build is on!
Thank you guys for all your help! I couldn’t have gotten this far without your help and support!
It's really good you know this before going on dyno.
It's good you did your research so we don't end up seeing a new thread with "my tuner blew my engine on dyno" title.
Looking forward to see you with 600whp DD!!!
Well as to let you all know it looks like I have burned/leaky piston rings. I did a compression test and my numbers were low on all cylinders. 95, 95, 90, 105. I poured some oil in from 2006EvoIXer suggestion and the numbers increased significantly. So no matter. We are going to do an engine build and then swap that into the car over the winter. 600hp reliable DD for the wife here we come.
Besides the the main reason the car was on the jack stands was damage from drivers front strut blown from a service shop and beginning to move to a coilover setup. So she will get reassembled and driven the rest of the year. Come winter the build is on!
Thank you guys for all your help! I couldn’t have gotten this far without your help and support!
That's strange to have low compression across all cylinders. Did you notice that the Evo was performing poorly? Any excessive exhaust smoke on idle or wot?
That's strange to have low compression across all cylinders. Did you notice that the Evo was performing poorly? Any excessive exhaust smoke on idle or wot?
Bryan did a leak down test to comfirm that the rings are leaking. He will ride it out until the built engine is ready.
So it sounds like you guys telling me not to install a Walbro 450. That I should only do the 255 until I get a new turbo/reinforced long block. Is this correct? Am I not able to progressively step this along and not buy double equipment?
How does one pick the appropriate injector size? I watched the ID video you posted Abacus. Thank you. They clearly make nice stuff and aren't that much more expensive. I stopped by the shop that is going to be tuning the car also today. P&L out of Lisle, IL. They also sell Injector Dynamics. They said they have the Mits tuner come in every other week (their bread and butter is Subbie's) but they work on a wide variety of vehicles.
2006EvoIXer I appreciate all the technical information. I just really don't want to have to spend extra money and time doing things twice. I HATE that with a passion.
I have installed the Walbro 450 pumps in several Evos, including my own in a double-pumper set up. They fit like crap in the stock Evo gas tank. The reason being that the over-all length of the pump is significantly longer than the Walbro 255 or any of these newer pumps like the AEM 320. With the Walbro 450 you absolutely must cut off the top barb on the fuel supply tube (on top of the pump) that pushes into the rubber inlet hose on the bottom of the sending unit. If you don't do this, they pump won't fit into the tank because its too long. Even with cutting of the top barb the fuel sock on the bottom of the pump will still be pressed down onto the bottom of the tank once you put it all back together and screw the sending unit retainer ring back onto the tank.
Does it work? Yes, it will work. Is it best IMO? No, it doesn't fit well. I like the double-pumper set up better with two AEM 320s or two Walbro 255s better because the pumps sit perfectly in the bottom of the tank and don't smash the the fuel socks into the bottom of the tank. I'm pretty sure I was experiencing some fuel starvation issues on my twin 450 set up because of this. I recently switched to STM's triple pump (triple 320s) set up and can't believe how much more fuel I have than with the twin 450s. On paper I shouldn't have that much more, but the fact is that I do and I'm pretty sure some of it is due to fitment in the tank.
I have installed the Walbro 450 pumps in several Evos, including my own in a double-pumper set up. They fit like crap in the stock Evo gas tank. The reason being that the over-all length of the pump is significantly longer than the Walbro 255 or any of these newer pumps like the AEM 320. With the Walbro 450 you absolutely must cut off the top barb on the fuel supply tube (on top of the pump) that pushes into the rubber inlet hose on the bottom of the sending unit. If you don't do this, they pump won't fit into the tank because its too long. Even with cutting of the top barb the fuel sock on the bottom of the pump will still be pressed down onto the bottom of the tank once you put it all back together and screw the sending unit retainer ring back onto the tank.
Does it work? Yes, it will work. Is it best IMO? No, it doesn't fit well. I like the double-pumper set up better with two AEM 320s or two Walbro 255s better because the pumps sit perfectly in the bottom of the tank and don't smash the the fuel socks into the bottom of the tank. I'm pretty sure I was experiencing some fuel starvation issues on my twin 450 set up because of this. I recently switched to STM's triple pump (triple 320s) set up and can't believe how much more fuel I have than with the twin 450s. On paper I shouldn't have that much more, but the fact is that I do and I'm pretty sure some of it is due to fitment in the tank.
Thanks for the warning.
Did you cut the bottom off to allow the wide part of the 450 to sit higher so a sock can fit? I hate permanently modifying oem stuff, but I'm not a fan of double pumpers because of so many potential problems. I got this photo from another link showing a cut bottom.
Thanks for the warning.
Did you cut the bottom off to allow the wide part of the 450 to sit higher so a sock can fit? I hate permanently modifying oem stuff, but I'm not a fan of double pumpers because of so many potential problems. I got this photo from another link showing a cut bottom.
No, because from my experience that doesn't help the problem at all. The issue is the overall length of the pumps, not the length of any part of the factory sending unit.
May 21, 2018, 08:30 PM
and you will use it often to keep tabs on your engine's health.
