Doing a stereo installation for a friend
May 16, 2006, 11:26 AM
#16
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Thanks for the compliments.
Yeah, I built the box myself. Shops charge ridiculous amounts to build simple boxes. It's robbery.
I wouldn't trust a shop to build the box for me. The box is ugly, but it's built to spec, glued, screwed, and siliconed joints, some really nice terminals that can handle 8 awg wire, and no leaks. Most of the professional boxes I've seen built don't really pay attention to detail and they charge a buttload.
Yeah, I built the box myself. Shops charge ridiculous amounts to build simple boxes. It's robbery.
I wouldn't trust a shop to build the box for me. The box is ugly, but it's built to spec, glued, screwed, and siliconed joints, some really nice terminals that can handle 8 awg wire, and no leaks. Most of the professional boxes I've seen built don't really pay attention to detail and they charge a buttload.
Last edited by jdub765; May 16, 2006 at 11:31 AM.
May 16, 2006, 12:03 PM
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I agree with you. I've seen tons of "professional" made boxes are hot garbage. I'm guessing you wouldn't endorse any boxes made by name brands like Q-Logic right?
You mentioned you're installing a computer? What type are you installing?
You mentioned you're installing a computer? What type are you installing?
May 16, 2006, 01:10 PM
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It really depends on the brand name ones. I've never heard one for myself from JL, Kicker, etc because I don't know anyone willing to shell out that much money for a preloaded prefab box. Some q-logics can be pretty decent. My first box was a 15" particle board Q-Logic box *gasp* with a 15" solobaric in it and it's actually one of the best sounding sub/box combos I've heard. I actually still have it sitting in the garage because I can't bring myself to sell it. The particle board seemed to give it a more natural sound or something.
I don't like the plasticy kinds of boxes, like q-forms, because they make the bass really "dirty" sounding. Maybe if they were deadened before they were installed, they might sound a little better. I'd rather just fiberglass something myself in that case though. But if you're lazy, and you aren't expecting much, they fit the bill. They're basically like Bazooka tubes. If you don't have much to spend, and you don't expect much, then go for it, but you get what you pay for.
I don't remember much about the computer because he was a little distracted when he was telling me about it. The box says P4, but he swapped the cpu and mobo out and put in a Pentium M chip. I think it's a 1.2 GHz. I think there's 1 gig of ram and I think it might even have a PCI Express video card. I know it has a DVD burner, but I have yet to figure out a way he can get to it easily. There's a wireless keyboard w/ a built in mouse which is pretty cool and also a GPS antenna. I think he's going to use a phone for the internet connection as that group of friends all seem to have unlimited data plans for their PDA phones.
I don't like the plasticy kinds of boxes, like q-forms, because they make the bass really "dirty" sounding. Maybe if they were deadened before they were installed, they might sound a little better. I'd rather just fiberglass something myself in that case though. But if you're lazy, and you aren't expecting much, they fit the bill. They're basically like Bazooka tubes. If you don't have much to spend, and you don't expect much, then go for it, but you get what you pay for.
I don't remember much about the computer because he was a little distracted when he was telling me about it. The box says P4, but he swapped the cpu and mobo out and put in a Pentium M chip. I think it's a 1.2 GHz. I think there's 1 gig of ram and I think it might even have a PCI Express video card. I know it has a DVD burner, but I have yet to figure out a way he can get to it easily. There's a wireless keyboard w/ a built in mouse which is pretty cool and also a GPS antenna. I think he's going to use a phone for the internet connection as that group of friends all seem to have unlimited data plans for their PDA phones.
Last edited by jdub765; May 16, 2006 at 01:18 PM.
May 16, 2006, 02:48 PM
#22
Looks like you are doing a good job so far, i'm a mobile electronics installer and i do it for a living. The hole through the fire wall is not necessary, if you remove the front driver side fender, the factory grommet with all the other wires will be easily accessible there then. You can see these wires exit the driver side kick panel.
May 16, 2006, 03:26 PM
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Yeah, I saw that, but it was too much trouble to route the wire to the front of the engine bay, through the fender (which, according to instructions I found on here, would necessitate taking off the fender, which requires taking off the wheel, etc, etc, then back in through the factory grommet. And then I would run into the problem of running the 0 gauge under the carpet, leaving a lump from the front to the back, especially the hump where the front left driver's side seat bolt bolts into. And I wasn't sure if the 0 gauge would be able to make all the bends needed to go that route, and I didn't want to take everything apart to find out.
There won't be any lumps by the front seats under the carpet since it's run just underneath the center console, the dist block for the computer is on the back side of the computer and won't get in the way of the DVD drive, and the carpet in the back allows for the e-brake cables to pass by, so I ran the power wire right next to one of those. Hopefully it won't be noticeable once I get the seats back in. I'm guessing I'm using about at least 3-4 feet less power wire running it the way I did, too. It seemed like a better idea to run it down the middle.
There won't be any lumps by the front seats under the carpet since it's run just underneath the center console, the dist block for the computer is on the back side of the computer and won't get in the way of the DVD drive, and the carpet in the back allows for the e-brake cables to pass by, so I ran the power wire right next to one of those. Hopefully it won't be noticeable once I get the seats back in. I'm guessing I'm using about at least 3-4 feet less power wire running it the way I did, too. It seemed like a better idea to run it down the middle.
May 16, 2006, 04:52 PM
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heh... that car looks like mine did the past week. I was installing a second amplifier, components up front, and finishing up the back doors with sound deadening. I also had my Recaros chilling in my living room. They're great to watch TV in.
Thus far my system comprises of:
Clarion Pro Audio Deck
Hard Wired Ipod
Sirius Satellite Radio
Boston Acoustics SL60 components
Boston Acoustics Pro Series 12.5LF (two) in a sealed box
SoundStream Reference 500s (500w RMS) 2 channel amp
SoundStream Reference 1000s (1000w RMS) 2 channel amp
Sound deadening (doors, trunk, trunk lid, foot wells, rear deck)
And tons of high end speaker wire, RCA's, etc
Thus far my system comprises of:
Clarion Pro Audio Deck
Hard Wired Ipod
Sirius Satellite Radio
Boston Acoustics SL60 components
Boston Acoustics Pro Series 12.5LF (two) in a sealed box
SoundStream Reference 500s (500w RMS) 2 channel amp
SoundStream Reference 1000s (1000w RMS) 2 channel amp
Sound deadening (doors, trunk, trunk lid, foot wells, rear deck)
And tons of high end speaker wire, RCA's, etc
May 16, 2006, 06:21 PM
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Props to you man. It looks like you are having fun and that's what this is all about. I was going to do this. I actually bought all the stuff amps, caps, installation kit. distribution blocks, the works. But after I thought about it, some how it just didn't seem right. So I just replaced the factory CD player, speakers and added a CD changer to the trunk. I may add an Infinity Basslink later on. But anyway keep having fun.
m~
m~
May 16, 2006, 06:57 PM
#28
looking good!
the one thing i wanna tell you about stereo /alarm shop is that they do it for the money,,,,they dont care about your car , as long as the things that u pay for works.,,.. thats it.
they are not gonna baby ur car....so whenever u bring ur car to the shop,,,,think twice....
i know this cause i work for stereo alarm shop........but not all of shop is like that....just watch out for lowballer shop........remember u get what u pay for.....
and dont forget to tip good amount of money to installer,,,,all the installers out there will hate u if u dont tip us,.....OR say thank you many times as you can just incase if u dont have money to tip....that makes us feel alot better even u dont tip us,,
the one thing i wanna tell you about stereo /alarm shop is that they do it for the money,,,,they dont care about your car , as long as the things that u pay for works.,,.. thats it.
they are not gonna baby ur car....so whenever u bring ur car to the shop,,,,think twice....
i know this cause i work for stereo alarm shop........but not all of shop is like that....just watch out for lowballer shop........remember u get what u pay for.....
and dont forget to tip good amount of money to installer,,,,all the installers out there will hate u if u dont tip us,.....OR say thank you many times as you can just incase if u dont have money to tip....that makes us feel alot better even u dont tip us,,
May 16, 2006, 07:31 PM
#29
Originally Posted by jdub765
Yeah, I saw that, but it was too much trouble to route the wire to the front of the engine bay, through the fender (which, according to instructions I found on here, would necessitate taking off the fender, which requires taking off the wheel, etc, etc, then back in through the factory grommet. And then I would run into the problem of running the 0 gauge under the carpet, leaving a lump from the front to the back, especially the hump where the front left driver's side seat bolt bolts into. And I wasn't sure if the 0 gauge would be able to make all the bends needed to go that route, and I didn't want to take everything apart to find out.
There won't be any lumps by the front seats under the carpet since it's run just underneath the center console, the dist block for the computer is on the back side of the computer and won't get in the way of the DVD drive, and the carpet in the back allows for the e-brake cables to pass by, so I ran the power wire right next to one of those. Hopefully it won't be noticeable once I get the seats back in. I'm guessing I'm using about at least 3-4 feet less power wire running it the way I did, too. It seemed like a better idea to run it down the middle.
There won't be any lumps by the front seats under the carpet since it's run just underneath the center console, the dist block for the computer is on the back side of the computer and won't get in the way of the DVD drive, and the carpet in the back allows for the e-brake cables to pass by, so I ran the power wire right next to one of those. Hopefully it won't be noticeable once I get the seats back in. I'm guessing I'm using about at least 3-4 feet less power wire running it the way I did, too. It seemed like a better idea to run it down the middle.
Here is the evo
The source unit, Eclipse AVN7000
Amps and cap rack
The xbox 360
The alarm Python 881xp preped and awaiting install
And what's better than having to vent your car on a hot day from a distance?
Window mods, vent it off your remote!
I'll gladly upload the finished product if interested!
May 16, 2006, 07:51 PM
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I've done dozens of sound system installs over the years and had a question. What do the pro's use to get speaker wire though that soft ribbed (for her pleasure) rubber gasket which connects the door to the cabin? This evo was the biggest b*tch running wires through it compared to anything i've worked on. I ended up using a bent to shape coat hanger with the wire securely taped to the back end so i can pull it though. I was using 16ga speaker wire from fosgate.