12volts white (40A) + ignition harness
Starter black/yellow + ignition harness
Second Starter N/A
Ignition black/white + ignition harness
Second Ignition N/A
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory blue/black + ignition harness
Second Accessory blue/white (not required) + ignition harness
Keysense blue ignition harness
Notes: The wire rests at ground with the key out of the ignition cylinder, and goes to an open circuit when the key is inserted.
Power Lock purple to yellow - driver kick, door harness
Power Unlock lt. green - driver kick, door harness
Lock Motor blue/red 5wi driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor white 5wi driver kick, door harness
Parking Lights+ green/yel (L), green/wht (R) + white plug bottom of fuse box
Parking Lights- N/A
Hazards white - hazard switch
Turn Signal(L) lt. green or white/blue + driver kick, harness to rear
Turn Signal(R) yellow + driver kick, harness to rear
Reverse Light brown + driver kick, harness to rear
Door Trigger white - white plug bottom of fuse box
Dome Supervision use door trigger wire
Trunk/Hatch Pin green/orange - light in trunk
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm gray - driver kick, door harness
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm
Tachometer black/yellow or black/green ac either ignition coil
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire green + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake blue/red - parking brake switch
Horn Trigger blue/red or red - horn switch
Notes: It is blue/red on the standard models and red on the Evolution VIII models.
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
Transponder
Part #: 556UW
Alternate Part1 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Only the Evolution VIII models have the immobilizer.

 

these have already been posted. you should have just added your "other" colors to this thread instead of starting another one too. makes it easier for the user

 

where do you find the black/yellow or black/green tach wire? i tried the instrument cluster and the fuse block(for ignition) but no results. also, do you have to connect both (+) and (-) of the door trigger to the same wire or thru a relay. where do you find the door wire that is (-) when the door is open and
(+) when closed?

 

the tach wire is at the ignition COIL and not the fuse. you have to pull off the coil pack cover on the motor to access either pack harness. you are not going to be using positive door trigger because the car has a negative system. you only need to connect the negative trigger wire on the alarm to the spot listed in the wiring guide in this thread. you can test for it by testing for continuity between that wire and ground with the door open (any door will work). there should be no continuity if said door is closed.

 

You're certainly rright about the negative door lock triggers. However, why tell people to go all the way into the engine bay for the tach wire, when it can be easily gotten from the ECU harness inside?

 

actually I just posted a separate thread and was able to get the tach wire from the instrument cluster. it is the green with silver markings not green/white wire as initially thought by some. it is beside it however.

 

diagram is a drawing, i dont see one here

 

You can also use the injector pulse for the tach reference.

 

where do you get that? as for the instrument cluster, it was easy just take out the 2 screws of the cluster cover, pop loose the ACD and mirror trim and you're ready to remove the 3 wires of the instrument cluster. one caveat however, since the odometer is all digital and I did not want to risk erasing the mileage, etc., I did not disconnect the wires, just using the multimeter voltmeter was able to determine the solid green with silver marking as the tach wire

 

At the ECU or the injector harness. Each injector has 2 wires, 12V ignition and signal. THe 12V ignition wire is a common color at each injector, just use one of the other wires.
You can unplug your cluster without losing any data, its stored on the ECU. I did mine there and it was easy since the dash was out.

 

Just for giggles I thought I'd add this. I've installed a few remote starts on Evos thus far, I've compiled this list myself and use it when I go into another install. The colors in the left column correspond to the colors used by DEI (Viper, AutoMate, Clifford, etc.). The "vehicle wire" colors for ground, hood pin and the siren can be ignored. Also, DKP stands for driver's kick panel.

 

which wire/switch to tap for the clutch bypass? I saw a red and white for the lower clutch switch and a black and green/white(?) for the upper switch. If you're saying to ground the white wire, I tried and it didn't work.

 

If you short the 2 wires at the clutch switch it will bypass the clutch. Use a relay to connect the two wires when remote starting.

Hint: This is also a great place to wire a kill switch. A theif wouldn't normall look there and its easy to disguise.

 

The clutch start circuit needs to be broken, not shorted, to start. The white wire rests at ground and when you depress the clutch switch, it rests at neutral (open circuit). You need to use a relay to break the circuit when remote starting.

Cut the white wire and connect one side to relay terminal 30 and the other to 87a. Connect terminal 85 to a source of ignition (must be powered on while key is in start position), the yellow wire going into the door. Connect terminal 86 to the (-) status out wire of your remote start.

 

I need this