I'm assuming by the plug in the crossover you mean the little jumper that can go from about +3 to -6, right? This is the tweeter output level. If your tweeters are bright, put this jumper on a lower setting and it should tame them a little bit.

 

So would you say the 6001bd would be good for the subs, or the smaller 3001bd a better match?

SQ

 

The P2 series subs do like to be overpowered. I had a chat with a tech from Rockford, and he said to pump at least 50watts rms extra into each sub. This is due to the fact that they underrate their subs. I was running a P210S4 in my Teg, and I was feeding it 300watts rms and it pounded all day long!

 

JL Digital Mono 500/1. Its a great amp that sounds good and has great response not to mention has a lil bump.

 

If its one thing I have learned over the years i have been 'into' car audio its that the more power the better, especially door speakers. Ive done set ups with almost 2 times the rms power rating on components(alpine type R 6.5" and Boston Rallys). As long as you have the crossovers set up right, so that the mid basses dont get too much bass(distortion = hot voice coil = blown driver), you can throw almost anything at a pair of door speakers. The more power, the better the amp can can control the speakers movement, which will reduce distortion, and produce a cleaner/smoother sound wave. Thus resulting in better sound quality. Subs you can do the same as long as you have a proper enclosure for them. Generally the more you over power a sub, the smaller the box you can get away with and maintain a high output, in a sealed box anyway. If you get a ported box properly built and tuned to the sub/amp combo, theres for the most part no limit to the power you can run to subs.

The amp you have right now(4002) will be perfect for the door speakers, just dick with the high pass crossovers on the amp so that you dont give them too much bass. And the p600 for you subs will be right up thier ally. Sorry to ramble there, hope this helps a little lol.

 

wow