update on your alarm systems.. i need to buy one
update on your alarm systems.. i need to buy one
just seeing whats available....i cant afford an arm and a leg but i hate leaving the car and i dont have an alarm i need something. let me know what you got and if its worth it
EvoM Community Team Leader
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From: chicago, michigan, arkansas
So i guess i can say i am happy with itI believe when i bought it from the dealership it was like 400-500 one time install but im not sure if you have to pay for the service
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Originally Posted by http://www.lojack.com/what/stolen-vehicle-recovery-system.cfm#warranties
With the purchase of a LoJack, you will receive a two-year Limited Recovery Warranty. With this Limited Recovery Warranty, if your vehicle is stolen and not recovered within 24 hours, LoJack will refund the purchase price your LoJack system up to the manufacturers suggested retail price
Plus if someone had your Evo for 24 hours, do you really want it back? Bye bye seats, wheels, engine, ignition, exhaust, stereo, shifter, hood, wing...
I'd rather spend the money on a good alarm plus immobilizer and not have the car stolen in the first place... if someone successfully steals my car after all that, then I'm sure I don't want it back
In my opinion, LoJack is for cars that are irreplaceable... surely an Evo is not one of a kind,
Last edited by recompile; Mar 27, 2007 at 05:03 AM.
With a 1-mile range on my clifford and an install tighter than Fort Knox by me, I doubt a 5 minute car jack or 20 min-hotwire is gonna happen. Its gonna be more like a 10 min @ss kicken. Word!!!
The other thing to remember is that a starter kill is only active while an alarm is armed. (Normally Closed) This means that if the alarm is disabled there is no kill and you can hot wire at will. You can short an input/output like the siren and fry some alarm systems, short a parking light so the alarm fuse blows when it tries to flash the lights, unplug the brain that the lazy installer zip tied to the steering column, Drill a hole in the battery so there is no power, cut a battery terminal and most alarms are completely useless.
The high end Clifford products used mulitple normally open kill circuits, when you disarmed the alarm it would then allow you to start the car. This means that any tampering will still not allow the car to start and it would need to be rewired. Cliford also offered a wireless remote kill circuit for the fuel pump, clutch switch, etc for extra protection.
If you want serious protection get an alarm system from the UK. They are potted so the brains are impenetrable, have 3 kill circuits, all wires are black instead of the Directed color code that any real theif has memorized. I've installed a few Code Alarm New York model systems with excellent results. A girl came to me with her new car after haveing 3 cars stolen. She was out on a thursday night, came home and her car wasn't ni the driveway. She filed another police report and arranged for a ride to work the next morning. She gets picked up and drives down teh street past her car. They defeated the siren and got into the car and spent some time trying to hot wire it. They then tried to push start it down teh street and eventually gave up. They couldn't get the stereo out thanks to some metal straps from behind, the box and amp were still bolted in the trunk though they cut the wiring and 2 idiots left fingerprints on the trunk lid.
Security is all in the installation, look under the dash of a potential installers own car before letting them touch yours, you'll learn a lot...
