M~'s audio install
Jun 19, 2007, 03:09 PM
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M~'s audio install
These are shots of my audio install. This was my first time at trying to build a box. I'm okay with the way things came out, but I'm going to hide the cap, but for now it stays. Also, I'm still waiting on my fiberglass box from Wickas.com so that I can finish up the install.
System details:
Amps: J/L 300/4, 500/1
Speakers Infinity 50002i, 652.5i, sub J/L10w3v2(for now, maybe, kinda sorta)
Interconnects: Fosgate for sub (shoulda bought all Fosgate. Stingers for front/rear channels.
Speaker wire: Stinger 16 gauge
Cap: Stinger 1.5 MF
PWR Distro block: Directed (good stuff IMHO)
Grd Distro block: Fostgate (damn I love their stuff)
Pwr wire: 4gauge
Amp wire: 8gauge (for now)
The start
Note where the powerwire goes into the fender. (blk straptied harness above the connector.)
The deck (which has 3 pre outs)
I love this stuff!
The routing (some of it)
Completed install on the deck
My first amp rack (I failed shop class 40 years ago)
12 disc CD changer (old folks need music too)
Sub Test box (screw buying em without listening to them in the car)
My amp rack again. She ain't purty, but it's all the same in the dark!
Done!
Another view
Final comments!
I'm real happy, with the box. That said, I had to do some cutting and trimming to get my sub to fit. (in the overall scheme of things, no biggie). Notes: I attached mine by drilling through the bottom of the sub with 3/4" flat head metal screws (got em from HDepot). I also drilled through the flat wall side facing the back of the sub woofer. Yeah I know. What I did was to open, the pull-out door in the panel behind the sub. I then inserted a piece of 1/2" MDF which filled that whole area (8"X6") and attached it to the frame (Metal part of car to your right behind the door panel) with 3 flat head 3/8" screws, 1" from top and bottom of the board (to prevent cracking) and spaced them evenly apart. I then pull on that sucker and it was tight. Now that took care of having a vertical attach point for the sub. It is now rock solid, and the only thing that I have to do is fill it with polyfill. I love the box, and the price was more than fair. I got a quote of $250.00 for the same box locally. But I wanted to go with something that, I knew that worked.
Whew! I'm too old for this.
Now, I gotta save up for cams, fuel pump and a custom tune.
m~
System details:
Amps: J/L 300/4, 500/1
Speakers Infinity 50002i, 652.5i, sub J/L10w3v2(for now, maybe, kinda sorta)
Interconnects: Fosgate for sub (shoulda bought all Fosgate. Stingers for front/rear channels.
Speaker wire: Stinger 16 gauge
Cap: Stinger 1.5 MF
PWR Distro block: Directed (good stuff IMHO)
Grd Distro block: Fostgate (damn I love their stuff)
Pwr wire: 4gauge
Amp wire: 8gauge (for now)
The start
Note where the powerwire goes into the fender. (blk straptied harness above the connector.)
The deck (which has 3 pre outs)
I love this stuff!
The routing (some of it)
Completed install on the deck
My first amp rack (I failed shop class 40 years ago)
12 disc CD changer (old folks need music too)
Sub Test box (screw buying em without listening to them in the car)
My amp rack again. She ain't purty, but it's all the same in the dark!
Done!
Another view
Final comments!
I'm real happy, with the box
. That said, I had to do some cutting and trimming to get my sub to fit. (in the overall scheme of things, no biggie). Notes: I attached mine by drilling through the bottom of the sub with 3/4" flat head metal screws (got em from HDepot). I also drilled through the flat wall side facing the back of the sub woofer. Yeah I know. What I did was to open, the pull-out door in the panel behind the sub. I then inserted a piece of 1/2" MDF which filled that whole area (8"X6") and attached it to the frame (Metal part of car to your right behind the door panel) with 3 flat head 3/8" screws, 1" from top and bottom of the board (to prevent cracking) and spaced them evenly apart. I then pull on that sucker and it was tight. Now that took care of having a vertical attach point for the sub. It is now rock solid, and the only thing that I have to do is fill it with polyfill. I love the box, and the price was more than fair. I got a quote of $250.00 for the same box locally. But I wanted to go with something that, I knew that worked.Whew! I'm too old for this.
Now, I gotta save up for cams, fuel pump and a custom tune. m~
Last edited by macster; Jun 29, 2007 at 11:01 AM.
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Jun 20, 2007, 06:09 AM
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I was thinking about that. I designed the front of the box so that the area where the amp cooling fins are would be open. But I'm still leaning toward adding one or two PC fans, which I have plenty of.
m~
m~
Jun 29, 2007, 07:00 PM
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wish i knew you were gonna run a w3 in there i woulda routered that out before shipping it, reason i didnt was because it comes set up for a w7, well at least you were able to get it taken care of. Glad to hear your pleased with the box!