Can a mini battery support a sound system or do you have to relocate the battery to the trunk?

 

why bother with a mini battery, if u gonna put a sound system. Just relocate the battery to the trunk, it will be better for ur sound system and amplifier.

 

Some mini bat kits put out more amps than the stock battery. Just do your research and buy the battery seperately from the bracket.

 

Maybe try this one.

 

i would not do that ....

 

I've been running a AMS kit for about a year and a half with a 300/4 JL amp powering all speakers. Car gets started almost every weekend with no problems so far

 

I want to know cause all intercooler and piping kits does not go with the stock battery. I already have a sound system and wanted to know before I even consider a mini battery.

 

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/powercells.asp

The kinetik 800 is a small battery that will support a decent sound setup. You really want your alternator to carry the power demands of your electrical system.

 

Just get a big capacitor. Thats there purpose anyway is to take up slack for what the battery cant put out. Of course this is with the car running

 

a cap is usually just a band-aid for a larger electrical problem

 

I ran the small odyssey battery on my Nissan 240sx and with the car on at once it powered the A/C, HID headlights, soundsystem with ipod adapter to include mtx speakers all around with a big kicker amp and a 12" subwoofer. The odyssey handled it like a champ, lights never dimmed of batt light came on.

 

Yes, it will work while the car is running and the alternator is turning. You may experience voltage drops / dimming earlier than if you had a larger capacity or deep cycle battery. If you do experience voltage drops, turn it down.

Lowvolting electronics is a great way to ruin them or have them go into protection.

It won't support a large system while the car is off for very long.

Typically, a cap serves only to increase the overall load on the charging system.

If charging a depleted cap takes 0.12 seconds, and the cap discharges in 0.07 seconds, it's worthless under load.

Also, most capacitors on the market don't fully discharge under load anyway, and cough up only a few joules. Read an excellent writeup on this, basically came down to the cap only giving up enough juice to power the amp for a very small fraction of a second - a shorter span of time than your typical voltage drop/recovery.

An excellent choice, Kinetik's powercells are preferred among top competitors and enthusiasts nationwide.

They're good guys over there too. Is that actually your TL score? You're friggin' loud, dude. Finals this year? Link to your dBDrag profile

 

Thanks for all the suggestions

 

I don't agree with that. Voltage movements are limited by a capacitor, and something as large as 1 or 2 F has the ability to keep your voltage from dropping when the amp decides to pull a big load.

Not really- if the voltage shifts a lot less because of the cap then its done its job. Nasty spikes (read movement in voltage) are what you're trying to limit with a capacitor, and thats exactly what they do. If you're not getting enough out of your cap, get a bigger one.

No cap will fully discharge (read 0Volts) in a car audio system. The battery has way too much power to allow that.

Unless the Farad rating is a lie (which it certainly could be...), the amount of Joules in a capacitor is E = CV^2/2. I realize that's an ideal calculation but even a really crappy cap with a high esr will still dump a lot of current.


Okay, enough babble. Point being, a cap IS a helpful tool and is not necessarily a bandaid. It will lower voltage movements, and keep huge transients from hitting your amp's power supply.
If your alternator can't keep up though, the cap won't fix it! (And get a good battery too)

 

I have the BR battery kit in my car with a 350w rms Alpine amp goin to 1 10in. JL W3. It has no ill effects. I have no cap in the car and 8 gauge wire. the battery is a year and a half old.