I hope everyone understands that this is your opinion. It soesnt matter it the subs are facing each other all the time. No one knows how that guy's system is wired up and how the timing alignment for those speakers are setup. Just because you see something that looks familiar doesnt mean it will sound the way you think it will. Keep that in mind.

Oh yeah..... Pioneer headunits?? Why is it that a $100 headunit from Best Buy sounds just like a $2k + dollar Z2? I dont know if its good for the the $100 dollar unit or bad for the Z2. Pioneers are OK for listening to music. They are not OK for listening to the way music is supposed to sound.

 

If you want to be loud....ported is the way to go! I'm satisfied with Alpine Type X






.

 

Like I said man I love JL stuff wether it be the W3's or the bad *** W7's. The W3's are my personal pick as im not a huge bass head and want to be heard from miles away like when I was 17. The W3's will keep the weight down but will offer hard hitting bass with a crisp GREAT sound. Minimal air space required.

W7's are LOUD and hard hitting. They sound good but require alot of power. They are heavy and do require some pretty good air space.

 

Ok..... I have NEVER heard a system with facing subs sound good and ive heard ALOT of them.

Anyways.... Pioneer still offers some of the highest volt pre-outs available. Thats where sound is going to come from when using amps. Its all in setting up your system and the settings.

I have used Eclipse headunits, Clarion, Kenwood, Alpine, etc.... I always go back to Pioneer. So what would you recommend for a deck to "listen to music how its supposed to sound"?

Not to mention... I have ran Pioneer decks for years and NEVER had one break, stop working, burn up, etc....

Like I said... its my opinion. Some will agree some will not. We're entitled to that. Not trying to be a dick.

 

W7's are incredible for making a lot of bass and only using 1 sub. W6's i think are a little less boomy and are a bit cleaner but you still need some good power to push them. The W3's handle less power, are clearer because of it and come in a variety of impedance levels for different applications. I've had 2 W6's 3 W3's and 1W7 in the past and they all sounded great for their different intents. I do now have 2 Eclipse 12's in my car with an eclipse amp and head unit.... IMO, you wont find a better head unit without paying a butt load of cash... their amps have a very low distortion ratio and their subs are clear as well.

I do think you can scrap that idea of running your amp at 1 ohm though... it will run so damn hot, you will eventually cause issues. There also arent many single subs that are 1 ohm either. so you can count on maybe a 2 ohm sub if you get a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub like JL or Eclipse offers as well as many others id think. In which case you will be hitting probably 700 watts to push them with the current amp you are using now. If that figure you posted was RMS.

 

I have always been a big supporter of the JL stuff too. Used to be MBQuartz back in the day but their stuff has gone down hill. In my Evo I have a JL 5 channel powering separates up front JL Zr's. Back is component JL's. My sub is a bazooka tube. No it is not going to shake the rear view mirror off but it is a perfect fill inside the car. The best part about it is that I can take it out in about 30 seconds, doesn't take up any space, and doesn't add hardly any weight. If you are looking to BOOOM this isn't the right way to go but it was perfect for what I was needing.

 

I used to love MB Quart stuff until I found the JL components. They were the shiz in the day!

 

+1 for JL components... crystal clear


MB Quart has lost their edge they once had... thats for sure.

 

I've got 2 10W6 AE's in a sealed box running of a JL 500/1 amp that I used to run in the trunk of my Evo. Custom box (aren't they all). It pounded very good. Would be better if ya could fold down the seats of course.

I've always been a big supporter of JL and it's all I've bought. There's another company out there I'd try, but it's more for tighter spaces and that doesn't seem to be a problem in your case.

It's all for sale in the Midwest region forum if you're interested.

 

the amp has been doing very well at 1 ohm, been running it like that for a couple of years without a problem and yes its 1500watts rms. my current boston g5's cant keep with with it which is why im looking for a new set up (subs have 2 7.5 amp fuses which keep blowing).

 

just want to thank everyone for their posts in this thread, really appreciate your opinions. there are quite a few quality companies out there for car audio equipment.

now the hard part, the proper set up of the system is what im really looking for. seems like firing the subs to the rear is the way to go in cars with trunks. what type of set up would you guys recommend (10s, 12s, 15)? i do like a lot of bass. i know i can save some weight on the enclosure by using fiberglass or baltic birch wood (as strong as mdf but weighs 20-30% less). a removable system would be nice as long as i dont have to sacrifice a lot of bass. for instance, are 12s going to be alot louder than 10s? or is 1 15 as loud as 2 10s? its been a nitemare for me to finalize a decision.

 

thought about increasing the impedance then ?

 

First, I understand you are entitled to your opinion and you are not acting like a ****. Don't worry, it's coool.

The best bang for the moderate buck as far as head units go is and has been for the last few years the Clarion drz 9255. Any other modern headunit is a multimedia piece first and a sound quality piece never. This is off-topic as the OP did not originally request info on head units.

I also am a dedicated JL audio fan. I believe their amps are practical and all of their subs are fantastic. It is what I use after all. My components and such, I prefer that they are designed and manufactured in France.

One day, I can only hope to be like BillAce and create my own component setup. That dude is crazy.

Who hasnt lost their edge, besides JL? Everyone who outsources to China or Taiwan will eventually start to suffer in quality. JL will soon follow that curve for the items they outsource. MB quarts used to be only made in Germany. JL Audios tweeters are made in Germany or use a certain German Companies technology. MB was bought out sometime ago by Rockford Fosgate and it is said this was only done to copy MB's technology.

Trusting a name is no longer just trusting a name.

 

You dont have too many options. I've mentioned the CM UL12 above that you may want to look into. I don't know of any other subs that will have the same output and be as light. A 12W7 is like 40+ POUNDS. The UL12 is 16.6 lbs and is definately louder than a 12 and probably a 13W7. You want loud. Many of us here want clean and somewhat loud. Thats why the majority will recommend JL.

You may also want to look into removing your rear speakers and relocate then to the rear doors if possible or you will need to be creative with an amp rack/mount that doesnt block the area behind your seat. Even if you do get a ported enclosure, the air won't be able to escape your trunk. Sometimes, a quality engineered install will give you far better results than a quantity based install.

 

EXACTLY! In a nut shell.

We're not 17yr old kids anymore who dont care about their hearing.

We appreciate GOOD crisp sound quality now instead of deafening, hear you from 3 miles away bass.