Well I'm thinking about getting a 10 inch JL Audio W7 in the Pro-wedge or H.O box (rated at 750rms) and was wondering if I should upgrade the stock speakers in the evo?
I know a few of my friends when they turn there subs on the bass jut lbocks out the music and you can't hear crap I don't want that. And you think the stock alternator can handle the 750 rms? thanks

 

thats quite a bit of weight in the back of that trunk. i put one of those boxes in a la sabre. its heavy as hell and loud as hell but i would recommend going with something a bit smaller.

unless you listen to thug *** rap its alllloootttttt of bass.

go with a w6 in a custom sealed box it takes up like no room. the cardboard box its shipped in is damn near too much space for it lol. throw a 5001 on it and call it a day.

you always wanna upgrade your speakers though start with your front components first.

 

Yes, upgrade speakers. More importantly upgrade power to front speakers. Yes, the stock alternator will handle 750rms as long as you have a stock or stock sized battery.

+1 on you might want to consider something smaller.

 

when you guys say upgrade my front components should i just get new ones i was thinking JL audio or do you mean put in a amp to power the speakers?

 

Both.

My cheap option would be to upgrade the front components, get the sub, and get a 4 channel amp and use the 4 channel to power the front two speakers and the sub. That's what I'm doing with the Carrera, eventually. Or you can go crazy, do all 4 speakers with a 4 channel and the sub with a mono, like I did in the Evo.

 

would you any of you guys or anyone in general do dynomat because i really don't want to put dynomat in a my car and i think i will take the advice and go with something smaller. i was thinking W6V2 but what 4 channel amps could run the components and the sub?

 

I had scraps of dynamat (leftovers from the shop that did mine) in the Evo's trunk and a little teenie bit in the doors. I'd say you might as well skip it at first, and if your car rattles etc too much then do it, unless you can get your hand on some free scraps like I did (shoulda seen my trunk walls, weird shaped strips of dynamat all over )

I'd definitely go with something smaller, and I'd definitely make it so the box can quick disconnect from the amp so you can pull it out (for when you wanna go fast), I regret getting a custom fabbed enclosure in the Evo just because I couldn't take it out ever. The C4 is definitely getting a quick disconnect box when I get around to doing it.

Plenty 4 channel amps should be able to handle it, unless I'm mistaken. I don't know a whole lot about technical specs, but I do know that there are a ton of 4 channels that can power my front components and a Pioneer TS-SW3041D (I think, one of their 12" shallows) just fine.

 

so how much power is to much power? becuz i dont want to be one of those ppl who drives down the streets with there bass bumping so everyone can here it. i want bass and i want it loud but i want it accurate. so maybe like 500 rms?

 

That is outside of my area haha. I have the shop I go to for stereo stuff do all the install and worrying about what works well with what. I just know what sounds good from hanging out there so much.

If you don't want huge bass bumpin, you might consider even just a w3v3. Even the W6 is gonna be pretty bumpin. I had a 12w3v2 in the Evo and it was perfect. Loud enough the car would rattle and you could feel the bass in your chest. Quiet enough that you couldn't hear it outside unless I had the windows down, unless you listened for the rattling license plate. I would say that a 13w3v3 would be plenty, especially in an appropriate box with decent power. Unless you saying "i dont want to be one of those ppl who drives down the streets with there bass bumping so everyone can here it. i want bass and i want it loud but i want it accurate" is different than when I said it.

 

would i have any problems with the spoiler coming loose or anything or should i hold up just fine no matter what?

 

i worked at an audio shop and put systems in literally everything. heres what you need

-front components
-rear coaxial fills
-5 channel amp (alpine pdx5 is awesome its powerful and has a tiny footprint (less weight))
-jl 12w3v3
-buy a custom box from one of the dudes on the forum
-have someone install it for you
-SOLDER AND HEATSHRINK
-get a radio if you dont have one already (has to have front, rear, and sub preouts)

then you will be happy. dont need dynamat for this setup. you will be pleased.
oh and get warranties! especially on the sub and amp!

 

oh and dont try to use a 4 channel to power front components and subs. bad idea

you will have fading issues and the amp is not the right class of amp to make a sub hit correctly.

 

No the spoiler won't come loose. Your trunk will rattle ridiculously though. +1 on the w6s being pretty damn loud too.

 

what are your guy's thought on the 8 inch W7? or should i just stick with a W3

 

Stick with a single 10 or 12w3 if you want JL. 300-500wrms will be plenty. Alpine makes a good 4 channel (using a 4 channel is fine), PDX 4.150 should be enough. They also have they're lower end amps, if money's an issue. I have a 300x1 rms (I think) and a 50x4 bridged to my components. I paid about $400 for both. Any name brand 4 channel that has at least 150w x 4 rms will be good. Or like said above a small 4 channel and a small mono amp will be good.

You can also look into Image Dynamics, Sundown, Fi, RE Audio, etc. They're all great brands that are generally cheaper than, say JL or Alpine.