Speaker Help
Speaker Help
So if I buy these
JL Audio VR650-CSi

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?comp_id=127
And these
JL Audio TR650-CXI

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=11401
What else do I need to get them to install? Harnesses? Adapter Plates? Thanks!
JL Audio VR650-CSi

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?comp_id=127
And these
JL Audio TR650-CXI

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=11401
What else do I need to get them to install? Harnesses? Adapter Plates? Thanks!
Last edited by JordanS4; May 11, 2009 at 11:26 PM.
you need to customize the fitament in the door panels cause the OEM Speaker is like customized for the hole with all this plastic!! after you get them mounted you need to run the speaker wires to the crossover and from the crossover to an amp!! thats if you go with the components if you go with the regular car speakers with intergrated tweeter you can plug and play to the stock wires but i wouldnt recomend doing that sound quality would not be the same as if you ran new wires directly to an amp.. hopefully i make sense if i don't let me know!...lol...all in all it should come with wires for the components but its always wise to buy extra wire...and then an amp with a wiring kit if you dont already have it! well good luck man!!
I know I have to cut away the plastic, is that what you mean? I don't have an amp just yet, going to be running them to my Alpine 9857 H/U for now. Can I not run those fronts with just a head unit?
I just used big washers to hold mine up!!...loll... didn't think of cutting the plastic but yeah thats a project in itself... yeah if your getting the components with the crossovers and seperate tweeters i would advise getting an amp! would be pointless to hook them up to the head unit!! i myself have never done it i have mine hooked up to a four channel amp!! if your looking to just get some good sound with just the head unit i would just go with the second ones on your post!! easily ran to the head unit!!
Would it physically connect though? I know it might not sound great for now, but I will get an amp eventually. I just can't take the stock speakers any more. Do I keep the stock tweeters then? Or do I just lose them and now I have a 2 way speaker in the front doors? Thanks for the replies!
I believe It Might!! dont see why it wouldnt...would just have to go from your speaker to the crossover, from the tweeter to the crossover, and from the crossover to the front or back Right/Left wires at the harness!! thats the part that i dont like is running the speaker wire to the back of the headunit cause theres such a tight space for more wires and just looks messy! easier to just run a set of RCA's!! but im 99.9% it could be done, would def. keep it temp. till you get an amp!! i couldnt take the stock anymore either their horrible!! but yeah no problem man!! oh yeah just keep the stock tweeters they give a lil extra sound!! i mounted the new tweeters on the rear pillars!! looks pretty decent! but yeah gonna take awhile to do it all!! kinda like a half day project!!
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Rican you're the man, I guess I have some thinking to do, I might just keep it simple with the stock tweets and 2 ways in the door instead of components and running all that speaker wire, but good to know it works if I do that. I have a good bit of QuietCar too so maybe if I hit the doors it'll sound decent.
ha ha...no problem man!! yeah would def think about it! i know times are tough but if you can find some extra cash for an amp the components are def. worth it!!! but the 2 ways will be alot better then the stocks!!! good luck man feel from to pm me once ya make ur decision with any questions!! take it easy!
Evolving Member
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Well, any aftermarket speaker needs more RMS than what the head unit can put out. It really depends on how loud you listen to your music. Yes, running simply the coax's all the way around would be better on the HU.
Now, some people are going to say "oh it can be done, yada yada yada, I run this with no problems."
When I do installs I make sure there can be no foreseeable problems. Yes you can do it, but also heat up the internal amp a great deal depending on volume. Also, by running the factory tweeters, the impedance changes slightly and can cause higher heat from the internal amp.
My advice: if you listen to it very softly, you can run either way and get by. If you tend to turn it up on the highway with the windows down in the summer, get the amp.
My .02 and have been doing installs for 8 years.
Now, some people are going to say "oh it can be done, yada yada yada, I run this with no problems."
When I do installs I make sure there can be no foreseeable problems. Yes you can do it, but also heat up the internal amp a great deal depending on volume. Also, by running the factory tweeters, the impedance changes slightly and can cause higher heat from the internal amp.
My advice: if you listen to it very softly, you can run either way and get by. If you tend to turn it up on the highway with the windows down in the summer, get the amp.
My .02 and have been doing installs for 8 years.
Thanks I hear ya. On the TR's it says "Rec. Amp Power: 10 - 75 Watts", so I think my 18Wx4 RMS will be on the way low side. I usually keep the volume around 14-17 at the highest (windows down, highway) out of 35 or so the H/U goes to, but the stock speakers have no bass and I mostly listen to rap. I'm a big fan of doing it once and doing it right so I may have to hold off till I get the scratch for a good 4 ch. amp.
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 304
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From: SoFla / Mid-Atlantic / Tri-State
Thanks I hear ya. On the TR's it says "Rec. Amp Power: 10 - 75 Watts", so I think my 18Wx4 RMS will be on the way low side. I usually keep the volume around 14-17 at the highest (windows down, highway) out of 35 or so the H/U goes to, but the stock speakers have no bass and I mostly listen to rap. I'm a big fan of doing it once and doing it right so I may have to hold off till I get the scratch for a good 4 ch. amp.
Get the sub while you are at it.
I don't need that much bass, I had a 12" Type R in my S4 but now way I'd put a sub in the Evo. If my results are $250 better than stock I'll be happy, I'm not an audiophile by any means. I guess what I meant by bass is being able to hear the mids/highs when the bass hits instead of distorting and garbling like the stockers, even if the boom is only as powerful as the stock speakers. It would appear "bassier" I guess because I could go to that setting without distortion of the treble.


