Just installed a new sub to replace my JL 12w3. Its a 2 ohm Boston 555. Running it is a JL 500/1. Problem is now I am having light dimming issues. I realize the new 2 ohm sub draws more power. Upgraded the "big 3" with no difference at all

Questions are (1) has anybody resolved their light dimming issues, (2) how did you do it and (3) if you used a capacitor successfully have you had any alternator issues?

If you upgraded the alternator where did you get it and how much am I looking at paying?

What a pain in the azz Thanks for any help!

 

Nobody has had this problem? 27 views and no replies.

I would sincerely appreciate help or advice. Thanks

 

I would recommend that you contact JL Audio tech support. It has been voted #1 customer service for a few years running. I am sure that they can help you out.

 

Thanks red devil. I will give that some thought. I am positive of what the cause is (both amps I have draw too much amperage for my alternator) but the solution is what I'm after. I've heard JL is pretty good about helping folks out so that might be a place to start. Thanks

 

Run another battery in the trunk...that should help that issue out.

 

do you have a optima yellow top as a primary battery? also what is the largest gauge wire the amps will take? a capacitor will help, but its like putting a bandaid on a garden hose.

 

I would like to avoid putting any additional weight in the car especially another battery. I am not using an optima as I have heard that their reliability is sub par. Considering buying a Batcap battery but really not sure if this is the solution. Currently running the oem. The largest gauge wire I can get into either amp is 2 gauge. Which is what I am running now. I assume that a better battery might be a good place to start. Thanks for the input. Anyone else?

 

i run a car pc with a 4 ch amp. i had power issue with my setup. i was running a deka etx 14 battery.. Thing that i have done to fix the issue.. Replace Battery with Mita battery. alternator has be rebuild stock is 90 amp. Rebuild 105 amp.. cost $130. need to run a extra ground wire from battery to chassis. extra ground from block to alternator.. also stock evo power wire from alternator to battery is 8 gauge wire. need to run extra power wire from alternator to battery.. Fused or with Fuseable link.. i run a 10 gauge.. wire..

 

the only reason i mentioned opitma is because ive used yellow tops in my last 10 audio setups and have had 0 problems. you want a deep cycle battery for the deep bass stuff that pulls a lot of juice. if both of your amps will accept 2 gauge i would run one 1 aut wire minimum, i would go 2 aut but thats just me, to a distribution block near the amps, also run the grounds short as possible. hope this helps PM me if you have anymore questions

 

A capacitor will most likely cure your dimming problems. They are for the quick draw transients that happen. A second battery is better if you have a large amp, like over 1000watts. Both is best. The second battery can be very small. I sell Stingers that are about the size of a motorcycle battey. Kinetic and other make them too. You need to run a power AND ground wire paralleling the two batteries together though.

A deep cycle battery is best for when you want to park and play your system when the car is off. A standard duty is better for playing when on. Best is an AGM like Stinger, Kinetic, ETC. They have a lower resistance and therefore charge and discharge faster than a lead-acid.

 

^^ +1. A capacitor should definitely correct your problem like stated above. Crutchfield is also another great place you can call to get help on anything for free. They have one of the best technical support out there.

 

Thanks to all who have replied and given me plenty to think about. This seems to be an issue that not too many people address properly or run across very often. Maybe I am just not as informed. Thanks again.

 

A capacitor will fix your dimming problem. I had the same problem and then went with a capacitor and it got rid of the dimming and I have yet to see any problems with the alt. I have had my set up for over 2 years.

 

Thanks minievo82!! Thats one of the main questions I needed an answer to. No need adding a bandaid just to have that bandaid create a bigger wound. I will go with the next cheapest and easiest fix. Got a batcap 400 on the way. Anybody running their power wire through the firewall? Local car audio shop said to do it properly they would have to remove the front bumper, front drivers side fender and headlight assembly to route the wire through the inner wall of the fender. $200 was the estimate!!! Seems like a lot of work just to run the 2awg wire.

 

I dont have an Evo, but firewall access without drilling a hole, might be the same. One grommet location is right under the passeger side shock tower. Another access point I found is a grommet located on the firewall behind the driverside fender liner.

If you have installed amps, you can do it yourself and save some money and go through the drive side fender. I did not have to remove the bumper.

I ran a dedicated power and ground from my Kinetic bat through the driver side fender liner. If you remove all the push clips and a couple of screws, the fender liner can be removed. I did it without removing the tire but removing the tire will give you better access.

When you have the liner out, you will see where the cars wire run. I ran 4ga.power wrapped in corragated tubing along with 4ga. ground. Spliced through the big rubber grommet in the fire wall. Just be careful not to cut the other wires. The wires will come out above the clutch pedal. To get through the grommet, I used large foreceps clampped to the end of the wire. Use a little dish soap to make it easier to get through. Just scope everything out. It took time but it was easier than I thought.

I have dimming issues too. Even with big three, Kinetic and direct power and gound from Kinetic for each amp. I know I need a HO alternator. 1300rms.....