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Amp or no amp?

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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:02 AM
  #46  
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I run an Alpine PDX-5 under my seat which pushes all my speakers and my sub. It tucks away nicely so it takes away no room and I've run it for 7 hrs + and it doesn't overheat.

I run rear speakers because people ride in the back of my car. edit: But my rear speakers are stock, no reason to upgrade them.

Last edited by AWD OWNZ U; Apr 13, 2010 at 07:04 AM.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:08 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by AWD OWNZ U
I run an Alpine PDX-5 under my seat which pushes all my speakers and my sub. It tucks away nicely so it takes away no room and I've run it for 7 hrs + and it doesn't overheat.
Sounds like you found the right amp for your needs.

I run rear speakers because people ride in the back of my car.
Consider this. Rear seat passengers are generally located ~2-3' from the front door speakers, vs 1-2' from the rear shelf speakers. Do you honestly think that folks can't hear sound emanating from another foot away? Hell, if a car system can be heard outside the car, it's more that safe to assume that it reaches every nook and cranny inside the vehicle.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:18 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by FJF
Consider this. Rear seat passengers are generally located ~2-3' from the front door speakers, vs 1-2' from the rear shelf speakers. Do you honestly think that folks can't hear sound emanating from another foot away? Hell, if a car system can be heard outside the car, it's more that safe to assume that it reaches every nook and cranny inside the vehicle.
I don't think, I know, because I didn't have rear speakers in my last car and everyone complained all they could hear is bass. If we all drove Lexus' you might have a point. Try sitting the in back of a loud car with no rear speakers driving down the road, you can't hear ****.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:23 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by AWD OWNZ U
I don't think, I know, because I didn't have rear speakers in my last car and everyone complained all they could hear is bass. If we all drove Lexus' you might have a point. Try sitting the in back of a loud car with no rear speakers driving down the road, you can't hear ****.
Remember, I own an Evo, too.

Honestly, your description of the sound replays an impression of severe tuning issues. That's not the system's fault.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 07:29 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by FJF
Remember, I own an Evo, too.

Honestly, your description of the sound replays an impression of severe tuning issues. That's not the system's fault.
I doubt it, I had my roommate tune it and he's got several SQ competition trophies. I prefer my music more bass heavy than is proper though so I'm sure that has something to do with it. Also keep in mind you could hear my exhaust from 3 blocks away in that car and the trunk was bare. It was a LOUD car. I miss the noise, stupid CA laws.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 08:31 AM
  #51  
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Thanks for the quick response. My comments are in bold.
Originally Posted by FJF
I appreciate the kind words. In your situation, I'd take a two-pronged approach. As a first step, I'd suggest deadening and sealing the doors. A relatively small quantity of deadening - ~1'x1' square - is put in the center of the panel, and the panel's (outside) skin is sealed with deadening material, as well. This does 2 things: it prevents the metal from vibrating as much, and it creates an infinite baffle alignment for the speakers. This will make the biggest change in perceived sound quality. If you run a quick search on sealing doors on Caraudio.com, you'll find a lot of pics exemplifying the process.

I had a feeling you were going to mention this. I have gone through the site www.sounddeadenershowdown.com numerous times reading about the different materials and their uses. This seems like it is the first thing I should focus on. Let me know if I have the right idea. I need to place a small tile of CLD on the inside of my door AKA my door skin. Then I should seal off the rest of the door with extruded butyl rope for the small areas and MLV for the rest? I am about to go read through caraudio.com so I will check out the process in more detail, however I just want to make sure I am on the right track.

The second step is an amp. Even though HUs are rated at a peak of ~22wpc, it's wishful thinking. Most HUs put out very little usable power. As such, an amplifier isn't a bad idea at all. This is where you have a lot of options, some of which hinge on the install. Do you have an idea as to where you'd like to locate an amp and a working budget?

I understand that my HU isnt pushing much power, however I was a little unsure about grabbing an amp as my car has SSL. The quality of the factory amp is most likely lacking however I would imagine it is better than not having an amp at all. If I were to replace the factory amp I would love for the new one to fit under my seat like it does now. I have installed a couple amps before so I am familiar with the wiring on a typical setup however the factory amp appears to be wired differently. For example there are no pre amp ouputs running from my HU to the amp as its getting its signal from something else. How much of the factory wiring would I be able to reuse if I were to install an aftermarket amp?
Sorry for the swarm of questions. At this point I dont have a budget as I am just trying to gather as much information as possible. Like I said before I am happy with how my audio sounds however I am always looking to improve things.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:39 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Evo8ux2
go with alpine or rockford fosgate if your still choosing on amps
I don't completely agree with that.

For those of you that bought the Alpine amps, I hope you realize the rediculously high THD that amp has (meaning it uses cheaper components). Look at the JL Audio Amps. They typically have a THD of 1/20 that of the Alpine, sometimes even lower. Rockford makes great amps too, in many cases better than Alpine. Look at the stats of any amp you buy. JL Audio makes higher quality amplifiers than Alpine.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Webman
I don't completely agree with that.

For those of you that bought the Alpine amps, I hope you realize the rediculously high THD that amp has (meaning it uses cheaper components). Look at the JL Audio Amps. They typically have a THD of 1/20 that of the Alpine, sometimes even lower. Rockford makes great amps too, in many cases better than Alpine. Look at the stats of any amp you buy. JL Audio makes higher quality amplifiers than Alpine.
I don't think yo realize that THD specs are completely meaningless. It's a measure derived for the sole purpose of selling gear. You see, THD doesn't differentiate between even and odd-order components. Odd-order distortion components are highly audible; OTOH, even-order are not. Without knowing exactly what comprised the THD spec, it's impossible to rely on it. All this said, buying audio gear on spec has never lead to (sonic) success, IME.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:02 AM
  #54  
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Bump...Im interested in peoples opinion of my situation (post 51). I will start a new thread if need be it, however I feel it is related to this topic so why clutter the forum with new threads...
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:12 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Sorry for the swarm of questions. At this point I dont have a budget as I am just trying to gather as much information as possible. Like I said before I am happy with how my audio sounds however I am always looking to improve things.
Happy to help out a fellow Evo owner with an interest in audio.


I had a feeling you were going to mention this. I have gone through the site www.sounddeadenershowdown.com numerous times reading about the different materials and their uses. This seems like it is the first thing I should focus on. Let me know if I have the right idea. I need to place a small tile of CLD on the inside of my door AKA my door skin. Then I should seal off the rest of the door with extruded butyl rope for the small areas and MLV for the rest? I am about to go read through caraudio.com so I will check out the process in more detail, however I just want to make sure I am on the right track.
I'd suggest using 2 CLD tiles on the inside of the door skins. The product is very effective and arguably the very best of its kind. When it comes to sealing the outer door skin, almost any quality Butyl-based deadening material will suffice - Dynamat Xtreme, Second Skin, RAAMmat. The Butyl rope is used as an accessory sealer, if you will. For example, it's great for sealing speaker baffles.

Once you seal the doors, you may get some buzzing from the door cards due to the new-found bass extension and dynamics. Take a look at my install thread for a fix, if you come across this issue.

How much of the factory [SSL] wiring would I be able to reuse if I were to install an aftermarket amp?
I don't know, as I've never seen the wiring in a SSL system. Perhaps some of the folks with SSLs could comment.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 10:48 AM
  #56  
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If I turn up the volume I get buzzing and rattles coming from the door well before the volume begins to distort the music. With that being said I think it makes the most sense for me to seal up my doors first. I feel like while the door cars are off, I minds well replace the speakers. My issue then is that I think I should match up my speakers with my amp. Hmm what to do now...

On a side note, I looked for your install thread and came up empty handed.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 12:58 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
If I turn up the volume I get buzzing and rattles coming from the door well before the volume begins to distort the music. With that being said I think it makes the most sense for me to seal up my doors first. I feel like while the door cars are off, I minds well replace the speakers. My issue then is that I think I should match up my speakers with my amp. Hmm what to do now...
We can make a safe assumption that the amp isn't very powerful. If you measure the stock speakers' impedance with a multimeter, we'll have something to go on.

On a side note, I looked for your install thread and came up empty handed.
Sorry, here you go:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...vo-system.html
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #58  
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Wow dont know how I missed that. I went to all the threads created by you and that one must have just slipped past my eyes haha. I love the way you installed the tweeters. So clean.

As far as setting up the doors is concerned its interesting to see that you modified the door cards. Im going to assume that the cardboard colored stuff is CCF foam? On your actual door skin aside from CLD tiles, did you use any other product? I want to figure out exactly what I should use and where instead of slapping unnecessary material all over the place like every other sound deadening thread.

I am away at school and will not be reunited with my car until after finals in the end of may so i cant perform any actual tests. I would love for other SSL owners to chime in as I am sure someone has upgraded their system. At this point it looks as though I should focus on the doors first.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 06:58 AM
  #59  
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Interesting info! I just decided I want to improve the sound system in my evo. I already have an alpline 9887 HU. I don't have the SSL package so I'm assuming I only have 6 speakers right? Where are they exactly? 2 in front doors, 2 tweeters in the A-pillars, 2 in rear? Yes I should know this but I have a second beater car and can't remember which has which.

So I should forgo buying better rears speakers and just buy components for the fronts? I autox so I was hoping to avoid any extra weight from an amp but I think I can drop a few pounds for race season . Any recommendations on speakers that I can run without an AMP for a bit.

Thanks!

Last edited by SPANKED; Apr 15, 2010 at 07:04 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by SPANKED
I only have 6 speakers right? Where are they exactly? 2 in front doors, 2 tweeters in the A-pillars, 2 in rear? Yes I should know this but I have a second beater car and can't remember which has which.
Right, the total of 6 drivers - a pair of tweeters on the A-pillars, and pseudo-2ways (wizzler cones) in the doors and in the rear shelf.

So I should forgo buying better rears speakers and just buy components for the fronts?
If you want better sound, absolutely.

I autox so I was hoping to avoid any extra weight from an amp but I think I can drop a few pounds for race season .



FWIW, an amp like the ARC Mini weighs only a few pounds, fits in the glovebox, and can drive many aftermarket speakers. Just something to consider.

Any recommendations on speakers that I can run without an AMP for a bit.
As you have a 9887, I'd suggest giving the stock speakers a shot. You won't need an amp to drive them and your HU offers a plethora of tuning options. If you decide to replace the speakers, IME, the (ampless) choices are limited. I'd consider Boston Acoustics' S/SL/SX-series.
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