blown ssl sub
May 2, 2010, 11:10 AM
#16
If I were you, I'd ask your brother to install a sub in the trunk and then drive around a listen to it. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. Just get an idea of what bass sounds like when the car is moving. Then, I think, he'll be able to offer you more guidance as to the best way to proceed.
Considering the amount of systems I have owned in past vehicles the only thing that might tell me is how well a subwoofer is going to react in an Evo. I've had plenty of systems in other cars just none in any of the Evo's that I've owned.
I know it's sad, but I'm not THAT unhappy with the stock system. Not saying that there isn't vastly better equipment and potential sound (I"ve been there and done that). It just works for me. I like a little bit clearer sound a little bit punchier bass. If I was planning on competing or at least really caring how great my system sounded then I would invest in better equipment. I just don't drive the Evo enough for that unfortunately.
May 2, 2010, 12:03 PM
#17
As I've mentioned before, the Evo emits a prodigious quantity of low frequency energy on its own that bring about random cancellations. That;s why I suggested that you listen to a sub in this car while it's moving. Try it. You may be very surprised by what you hear, or rather by what you don't hear.
Best of luck with the project. Please let us know how it turns out.
May 2, 2010, 03:49 PM
#18
Exactly.
As I've mentioned before, the Evo emits a prodigious quantity of low frequency energy on its own that bring about random cancellations. That;s why I suggested that you listen to a sub in this car while it's moving. Try it. You may be very surprised by what you hear, or rather by what you don't hear.
Best of luck with the project. Please let us know how it turns out.
As I've mentioned before, the Evo emits a prodigious quantity of low frequency energy on its own that bring about random cancellations. That;s why I suggested that you listen to a sub in this car while it's moving. Try it. You may be very surprised by what you hear, or rather by what you don't hear.
Best of luck with the project. Please let us know how it turns out.
Good advice! I think I know a couple of guys with systems in there Evos that I can probably take a listen to. I don't think any of them are running anything smaller than 2 12's though. Although the quality might leave something to be desired the overall cone area is a lot more than a single 10. And also wanting to keep this install sealed and small that will hurt my output as well.
I thought about trying to lay some stuff down (not Dynamat because it doesn't help with things of that nature. A lot of people seem to think that's what dynamat does though) to try to quiet the inside of the car (block out some of the exhaust drone and road noise). Although that in itself might be more of a hassle than it's worth because I would imagine that you would need to cover a decent amount of the car's floor (along with firewall and doors) to get the response to make it worth it. Again that would only be my guess because I don't have much experience in those matters.
I've seen people cover most of the interior of their cars in dynamat though and wonder why there was still so much road noise and exhaust drone. A lot of people seem to think it's the fix all for all things audible in a vehicle.
I won't be rushing into this project. The only thing that's not a variable is that I'm using Kicker. More than likely I'm going to pick up the QS series components. I planned on running each channel (minus the sub channel of course) of the ZX700.5 bridged to to each set of components. So that should give each set of components 165 or so watts to play with. I haven't seen what the inside of the Evo door looks like, but I'm going to see if there is room in there to build a small pod or some type of enclosure so that they aren't running completely free air.
My brother actually made his own pods for his Kappa Perfect components (which I might end up using if he just wants to give them to me) for his TT Supra out with a heat gun and abs plastic. It took a WHILE, but the end result was pretty freaking cool looking. He just made a skeleton and melted the plastic over it. Took him a couple weeks working on it on and off, but definitely turned out good and looked very factory.
May 4, 2010, 03:09 PM
#19
UPDATE: I received the 8' infinity 860w in the mail today and plugged it in and it seems to work fine withe the stock amp. However I think it will be to much work to try and fab it into the stock sll box and keep it sealed, so im just gonna build a nice ported enclosure for it. I will update with pics and how it sounds when im finished.
May 6, 2010, 04:58 AM
#21
<grin> It doesn't really work like that. Drivers differ immensely in their respective electrical/physical responses, regardless of size. At the very least, if we know the volume of the enclose and the nominal impedance of the stock woofer, we could take a somewhat educated shot at a replacement. So far, no one has posed this information.
May 6, 2010, 04:38 PM
#22
Ok so here are some pics. if your stock woofer has blown or want something that sounds a little better and dont want to upgrade head unit amp etc. then this is a great alternative, all you need is about $100 some carpentry skills and or know someone who does. At first I wanted to try and fabricate this woofer into the stock ssl box but realized it would be to hard to do so. Biggest problem having it remain as a sealed enclosure. So I figured it would just be easier to build it a nice ported enclosure to spec. It sounds good! not a whole lot lot louder than stock, but defiantly noticeable! In the last pick you can see how I used the factory bracket to mount it to the back of the car, still need to do the other side though.
May 6, 2010, 05:38 PM
#23
It shouldn't play louder than stock, because you're using a less sensitive driver. Without knowing the nominal impedance of the original woofer, we can't say for sure whether the x-over point remained constant, as well.
Folks, if you want a replacement woofer for the SSL sub, we need two crucial pieces of information - the volume of the enclosure and the impedance of the driver (measured in Ohms). There are a gazillion woofers that can be had, each with varying electrical/mechanical characteristics. It wouldn't be hard to find the right driver, and I could model it in a similar enclose, but we NEED the info I described. We could also find an even more sensitive driver, making the stock sub sound louder with less distortion, but that won't happen by shooting in the dark.
Folks, if you want a replacement woofer for the SSL sub, we need two crucial pieces of information - the volume of the enclosure and the impedance of the driver (measured in Ohms). There are a gazillion woofers that can be had, each with varying electrical/mechanical characteristics. It wouldn't be hard to find the right driver, and I could model it in a similar enclose, but we NEED the info I described. We could also find an even more sensitive driver, making the stock sub sound louder with less distortion, but that won't happen by shooting in the dark.
May 21, 2010, 07:44 PM
#24
I think my sub is on the way out too. I am looking for a replacement as well.
I called the dealer and the factory sub is rated at 40 watts. The clerk also mentioned 20 CM.
So I think is a 10 inch unit.
If anyone is selling a stock sub in good condition, PM me a price.
Dealer wants upwards of 89.00 for it my price new.
Just did a search.
This may be a good replacement unit.
I will open my box when I get time and see if it is similar in looks and size.
http://www.speakerworks.com/10_inch_...r_p/gw1038.htm
I called the dealer and the factory sub is rated at 40 watts. The clerk also mentioned 20 CM.
So I think is a 10 inch unit.
If anyone is selling a stock sub in good condition, PM me a price.
Dealer wants upwards of 89.00 for it my price new.
Just did a search.
This may be a good replacement unit.
I will open my box when I get time and see if it is similar in looks and size.
http://www.speakerworks.com/10_inch_...r_p/gw1038.htm
Last edited by 04AWDTURBOEVO; May 21, 2010 at 07:58 PM.
May 23, 2010, 02:38 PM
#27
http://www.pioneer-america.com/PUSA/...S-SW841D?tab=B
Is this the driver you got? If it is, I wish you luck, especially with the stock amp.
Guys, the odds of finding a replacement driver that's labeled as a branded car audio sub are slim to none. You need to look in Partsexpress and Madisound for drivers. Make sure to zero-in on something with very high sensitivity, if you plan on staying with the stock amp. And, if you're going to use the stock amp, you have to know the stock driver's impedance. You can't just choose a woofer on the basis of physical fit and hope that the sub sounds as good or better than stock. That's not how it works.
Is this the driver you got? If it is, I wish you luck, especially with the stock amp.
Guys, the odds of finding a replacement driver that's labeled as a branded car audio sub are slim to none. You need to look in Partsexpress and Madisound for drivers. Make sure to zero-in on something with very high sensitivity, if you plan on staying with the stock amp. And, if you're going to use the stock amp, you have to know the stock driver's impedance. You can't just choose a woofer on the basis of physical fit and hope that the sub sounds as good or better than stock. That's not how it works.
Last edited by FJF; May 23, 2010 at 02:45 PM.
May 24, 2010, 04:36 AM
#29
Are you using a SSL enclosure for the fit and the mounting solution? I'm asking, because there's a lot more latitude without the SSL amp. The newer Alpine multi-channels usually don't include a subsonic (ie. infrasonic) filter. If yours has one, set it relatively high, as the low bass will be canceled-out by the car, regardless, and there's no need to waste the power and excursion.
May 25, 2010, 04:19 PM
#30
What you think chief?