Like the title states I've had my evo for a 3 months or so. I just decided to check to see if it worked. But it doesnt Seem like it does. Its a 06 SSL package evo. Are these known to take a dump on you.?There wasnt much when I searched.

 

Turn up the bass and the volume, and put your hand on the sub next to the driver. Do you feel any vibration?

 

wouldent the sub be in the trunk and not the door O.O?

 

Yes. You'll have to get out of the car.

Edit: Oh, I get the confusion. A driver (in audio) = woofer/mid/tweeter essentially a transducer. I didn't mean "driver" as the person driving the car. Sorry about that.

 

It's possible that the oem could just be crap. Honestly, I never keep oem systems in my car. I don't care how good the company says it is, mine will always be better.

 

yea i have to look into a little more when i have time. I may just get rid of it. IS there a switch that turns it on the actual box itself?

 

It would have taken you less time to do what I suggested than to type this post.

 

Honestly, I would pull out the oem equipment anyway. I don't usually remove the factory amp (too many issues later on) but you can easily bypass the factory amp and just run a new HU, wiring harness and RCAs with your new subwoofer, coaxials and components. Sounds so much better and well worth it.

 

Forgive me for asking, have you actually auditioned a number of audio permutations in an Evolution that is not standing still? Given your comments, it doesn't seem like you've really worked with the car. I'd second your comments, sans the coaxials in the rear, if this were most any other vehicle, but it's not. This car presents an extremely challenging environment for audio. Cookie cutter configs simply don't work very well. Meaning, they don't really sound a whole lot better than stock when the car is on the move, but add weight, unnecessary expense, and intrusion into the interior all for essentially no (sonic) gain. Over the years, there's been quite a bit of trial and error with these cars. Might not be a bad idea to familiarize yourself with the constraints at hand.

 

You are right in your assumption that I have not had too much hands on with this vehicle. I was making suggestions based on experience from, well, every other car I have ever worked on. The biggest challenge I had for sound control and road noise was an RX-8 (that I used to drive daily) and a 370z. Those were both very loud to drive and presented major issues involving exhaust resonence and road noise from the rear wheel wells. I understand not adding weight, I was just simply expressing that any aftermarket stereo system with the right mix could and would sound better than any oem system that the factory may offer.

 

I agree completely and I'm genuinely happy to have an installer with your level of experience on board. What we need are unusually sensitive speakers that work well in the stock locations. Hopefully something that doesn't emphasize sibilants next to the windshield, and that cut through the noise of the car without adding a lot of distortion. My personal quest for such an animal has reached a dead end; there are only so many speakers that I'm willing to buy and install in my own Evo. OTOH. someone with your level of exposure can help us to identify such a speaker. Aside from working with raw drivers, I'm out of ideas.

 

no really all you need is higher end speakers,i've had multiple component sets in dif vehicles,,it will without a doubt sound better then stock,now as far as roadnoise,goodluck,i also say all the stock speaker locations work quite well for aftermarket stuff,also of note i have not went past 1400 clean watts of power in all of my evo's..im sure theres more room to work with concerning the stock alternator,but i didnt want to chance it. i also run a mini battery,so i have a optima deep cycle in the back

another thing i forgot to mention,when i say highend speakers i am refering to something by jl audio or alpine or focal..etc and most of these H.E. component sets require power..and im not talkin the power from your headunit...but power from a clean source amp with 4 or 5 channels..then the high frequencys cut right through roadnoise Distortion free

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...vo-system.html

Been there, done that along with a multitude of permutations on the theme. I know you're trying to help. The end result is always the same.

To be clear, this isn't about an aftermarket system vs stock in a general sense. It's about an aftermarket (speaker) system in a tuned CT9A Evolution. Of course one can have fantastic sound in a car, just not this one while it is moving. Standing still, sure.

 

hum thats wierd,i thought the op was having issues with his stock sub not working...maybe i misread,as to your problem fjf,not sure why you have this problem ,but at 80 plus mph,i can still here my music just fine windows up or down,and with my O2 back 3inch full exhaust,and im talking about in my rs

FJF i took a look at your link to your audio setup,it seems like you spent some time with sound deadening,lots of work imo for little gain,and if this is what you refer to as high end components(polk)...maybe you and i have different ideas about what high end is..not an insult

 

He doesn't know if it works or not, since he won't take 5 seconds to check.

We all have this problem. Evo owners, I mean.

It's not a question of hearing a sound. Of course you can hear the speakers. Can you hear more resolution at 80mph than the stock speakers can provide? Not likely. That's the issue in a nutshell.

Audio is a science. Folks can make any claims they wish. Some can be checked with ease, like the amplitude of a speaker system relative to the noise level at 80MPH. I hope you see what I'm saying.

I don't think you really understand what deadening does. It's not "sound deadening," per say, as it doesn't do much to decrease the noise level inside the car. It's there to handle panel vibration. Though, I think you may be referring to the CCF in the doorcards; it's there to stop sympathetic vibrations that drive buzzes and rattles.

Perhaps you're referring to sealing the outer door skins, creating an infinite baffle alignment? Surely that can't be, as it's arguable the single biggest improvement in sound quality.

Have you ever heard of car audio?

http://caraudiomag.com/articles/polk...0-car-speakers

"If you are short on time and don’t want to read all the details, here is what I am going to say at the end of all of this: “The Polk Audio SR6500 component sets are the best component sets and coaxes I have tested. The best performance, the best cosmetics, the best engineered, and so far the only thing I have seriously considered putting in my own car” (I hate to install)."

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/sr6500/
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...io_SR6500.aspx

Aside from all this, speaker quality as such isn't the issue. It's the sensitivity of the transducer and the efficiency of the install, relative to the noise and a given degree of distortion. Sonic attributes aren't even a figure yet, at least not before the main barrier to success is conquered. Sure, we can stuff any amount of gear into the car, but to what end? I've written quite a bit about this in gross detail. Run a quick search and save me from having to repeat myself once again.