2 years ago, and i ran the car for the whole summer before my clutch fork broke in half, leaving me to pull the engine again just to retrieve the broken piece left inside the tranny. anyway long story short, reinstalled everything like i did 2 years ago but i cant get it to start and more . it is worth mentionning the last step i had to do 2 years ago before the car started for the first time was, a 10 amp fuse located at socket #20 in the interior fuse box (2003 8g) kept burning, after replacing it with a 15amp the car started and ran like a charm.


now 2 years later after reinstalling everything and trying to start it , at first the odometer came on and the radiator fan started too , but the car wouldnt crank, in fact everything dies when i try to crank the engine, , tried a few things , rechecked my grounds and fuses, but now the odometer and rad fan havent started since and i cant find any blown fuses. i was told theres supposed to be a correct way to install the relays ( theres a small triangular white shape on each relays which i imagine indicates this side up, but every pic i see of the fuse box in its original state are different .

there is a bit of gauge mouvement , the temperature gauge moves a bit upward but ONLY when the key is turned at the ON position and only when i remove fuse # 20 from the interior fuse box . the needle goes back down when i turn the key @ crank

the door light still works without the fuse @ slot 20 ( 10amp)
the hand brake intsrument cluster light and battery light DO work without the fuse @ slot 20 and at key position lock, ACC, ON but they turn off @ crank

there is no gauge mouvement nor any hand brake light nor any battery light when i insert the 10 amp fuse in its designed location , but the door lights do work ( viser lights work too but they are slightly blinking/dimming high/low , and as soon as i open the sunvisor ( any) the door light turns off .

also as soon as i insert even 1/8 of the key, the car starts beeping at rapid intervals /intermitance @ lock & @ acc but stops beeping @ on

also , after i initially reinstalled every and tried to start it the fist time, the odometer and radiator came on like they normally did, but now both are silent/dead .

also after i open/close the driver door ( activating the little door push button /pin w/e ) the car door open light sometimes blinked or flashed at unregular intervals, like it would if a 12v wire would be loosely connected or badly rusted but i checked most of em and didnt find anything, also remember the frame and parts didnt see any usage whatsover for 2 years .

i must of plugged something wrong , also would the missing clutch bypass/relay affect my headlights? , none of them work, highbeams lowbeams nothing, the small gray cube relay in the underhood fusebox is screeching every time i try the low/high beams , im sure its an electrical problem because

when i open the driver door, the instrument cluster door light comes on.
as soon as i turn the high/lowbeams on the gray underhood relay starts screeching and the door open light turns offf, i release the highbeam lever ( or turn off the lowbeam) and the door open light comes on again.

so any ideas anyone? starting to get desperate here, ive been re-re-checking my wires and fuses but im stumped by the symptoms

main thread of what i did so far

8G 4g64 swap to 4g63t + evoturbo How to *incomplete* (PICS!)

Cant connect to Ecu with ecuflash

here are some pics of the swap in case i made a mistake while raging

Library Slideshow by theeqs | Photobucket

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=a940643c59

 

You have a short somewhere. Based on the symptoms and work performed, there is a pinched wire harness or stretched wires. This may have been done when installing the engine or pulling the engine with something still connected. It seems like something is shorted going to the interior fuse box.

 

i went and got another multimeter, mine was old so just in case it was shotty .

going to get the voltage of each essential components @ diff key locations ( off, acc, on & start)

will post the info here.

So about the relays





since the g doesnt have an mfi relay and the evo engine does, cant recall if i needed to eliminate the evo one of had to rewire one to the g

 

anyone ?

my relays are installed exactly like the bottom pic minus the F


also im not remembering correctly so i want to confirm these

damn im old, i cant find the info in my thread on which sensor i had to keep plugged and which i had to unplug

tps plugged right?
ifs plugged or unplugged ,
idle sensor i keep unplugged right?
srs ecu unplugged
cruise control ecu unplugged (center console)
cruise control solenoid unplugged
small immobilizer sensor plugged ??? (center console )( i deleted the immo key in the ecu so i wouldnt need this one right?)

 

got a new multi meter today, tested the battery, 12v
tested inside fuse box 12v on the screw besides the fuse.
i tested pin 12 and 25 of the evo ecu which is supposed to be 12v but it gave me a reading of 0... but when i connect pin 12 and 25 to a ground my car door light turns on and so does the hand brake light and battery light( if there is no fuse in slot # 20)



i checked the fuse box and the junction block for rust or some of the green corosive stuff and didnt find any , the contact were clean and still shiny

there was on the other hand a HUGE ball of spider cobweb, so much and compact that u could feel the lid tearing through it. i checked the connections after cleaning it and they were ok .

the junction block has no sign of corroded contact inside and outside

 

i was able to get it to crank today

its as if the immobilizer isnt deleted anymore. twice now it would have deleted itself god knows how

i just installed ecuflash and will re re delete the code tomorrow
il keep u updated


so either it was the spider ball-o-web that shorted the underhood fusebox
or it was the transmission ground (short but thick black and yellow wire) which had some green corrosive stuff on it , made a new custom ground for it.

remade a ground for one of the ecu grounds

removed the 12v from the red/white wire at obd2 port pin 1 , which was connected to pin 12 and 25 of the ecu and the 3 at the battery

but now ecuflash wont connect until i put 12v at pin 1 on the port

idle sensor is still unplugged
both egr solenoid are plugged still ...

will post pics tomorrow