There are plenty of EvoM guys daily driving with 350+ whp. . The 4G63 can hold its own. If you want to be safe, then just make sure you leave the engine mods and tuning to a pro shop.

 

From what I've heard and witnessed, You need head studs if your gonna run 22+ psi. I know 2 guys that have had to replace their 4G63s b/c their boost spiked to 25psi & 27 psi. Even if your running 23 or 24psi, it's really pushing it even though the internals are strong from the factory. Just my $.02.

 

Yeah thats why I hit on 350whp. Plus u should be able to reel off a 12sec 1/4 or maybe even in the 11's if you wanted to. I think I would be happy with that.

 

my buddy is running 12.6 with only exhaust, intake, cams and tuned safc

 

Jeff, if you're worried about warranty, then in all honesty the Evo might not be the car for you. Even if you leave it untouched and end up with a bum clutch from the factory ... you still have to pay. Mitsu can be very picky about how they enforce warranty rules. Now having said that, my dealer has been very cool about working on my Evo. They even installed the SS clutch line and removed the restrictor without voiding my warranty. However when they saw that I had new camgears and camshafts installed a couple of months later, they were like "hey you do know that your warranty is void now, right?" and I was like <shrug> "yeah, but it goes hella fast now too" It's all a matter of how much performance you want and what you're willing to pay for it. A better exhaust and the clutch line upgrade should not void your warranty (but check with the dealer before you buy).

AUSS1E - if you're looking to run low 12's and maybe even high 11's, then there are a number of ways to get there. Personally I am biased towards Vishnu and their stage 1+ setup will easily net you your goal. IMO AMS and Buschur also make nice packages, although with either one of them I'd still lean towards getting ECU management via Vishnu (unless you're going AEM EMS, in which case I'd highly recommend AMS). The bottom line is that with fuel management and a good exhaust, you should run mid to high 12's. Camgears and cams should then get you into the low to mid 12's. ... and of course then you start getting into the whole cat/no cat ... pump/race gas decisions ... choices, choices. Lastly, I'd recommend leaving the stock intake on your Evo. At the most get a panel filter (I run the HKS) for it. Aftermarket intakes mess up your air/fuel management and, unless you're custom tuned for a specific intake, you will generally lose power.

l8r)

 

Like I said earlier. I dont have the stock stuff cause it had all the HKS Stuff when I bought it. That said I was thinking about getting some kind of EMS or reflash.
here is what im thinking
3. boost guage/pod
4. Boost controller
5. SAFC
6. Fuel pump
7. Cams
8. large intercooler.

 

oops...forgot the downpipe....put that in 5 and shift the rest down

 

You really cant get mad at Mitsu for voiding the engine warranty if you put in cams. That's an internal engine performance mod! I'd do the same thing if I were Mitsu.

 

BR Stage 4

 

question1:Yes 264 and 272 bumpstick degrees are somewhat wild cams. it won't be extremely retarded but will deviate about 500rpm's-800.
question2:dunno who AMS is.
question3window crashed sonuva) all piping to evenly disperse gas pressure in the exhausting system, it would be best to be consistent in piping diameter throughout. even if you went 3->4" it wouldn't hurt it too much since the exhaust is under pressure though the exhaust gases might tumble and sound and make your car vibrate. the other way around? 4->3" no. its like a funnel.

 

The first three mods that I did to my car where:
1: MBC + Boost Gauge
2: Buschur Turbo Back
3: HKS Racing Suction Intake

My next three mods will be:
1: AMS Front Mount Intercooler (With all new pipes throughout)
2: Cams
3: Fuel Pump

For the finishing touch....I will have AL Flash my Chip next time he comes to town......

I will rape every single American and European car on the road. I will hand them their a$$ on a silve plate. Hahahahah

 

With that set up and the Dyno Flash you could expect 320 - 330 whp on 93 ocatne fuel. To reach 350 you would need fmic pipes a fmic and a few other misc mods to add up the last 20 whp.

 

roger that

 

Want to know what you need to get 350whp on 93 oct as measured on a Dynojet with a minimum of hassle and issues? I'm there, so I can tell you what you need and what you don't need, and equally importantly, what you don't need.


- A better 3" exhaust system of your choice - a cat delete can give about 15+whp at this power level, but is illegal for street use.

- HKS Cams - The longer duration combinations will yield a bit more power and get you squarely to 350whp if cam gears are used.

- Lower IC pipe upgrade

- A capable means of dyno tuning - Forego S'afcs and MBCs in favor of something more capable, as well as investing in some time from a competent individual who has a proven ability to dyno tune it. FWIW, I'm using an Xede w/dyno tuning, and it works flawlessly.

Recommended: 255lph pump (insurance).


You don't need an aftermarket IC - doesn't help much at this power level
You don't need a standalone ECU ($$)

 

1.Custom Flash
2.Turbo back
3.Boost Controller
4.BOV
5.Cams
6.Cam Gears
7.Intercooler piping kit
8.ARP Head Studs
9.1.6 bar boost
10.Intake system

Optional:
1.Intercooler kit

350-400whp.Good Luck.