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braided clutch line

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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 04:26 PM
  #16  
marksae's Avatar
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From: SF, CA
These are the steps I've taken towards making my car shift better.

1) SS clutch line
- helped shifting a little
- slight grinds happened less often
2) SS clutch line + poly shifter base bushings
- shifting was just a little more precise
3) SS clutch line + poly shifter base + metal shifter cable bushings
- shifting noticeably more precise
- still get slight grinds when shifting moderately fast
4) SS clutch line + poly shifter base + metal shifter cable bushings + removed clutch restrictor
- clutch pedal had to be adjusted after the restrictor removal
- made the biggest difference of all
- can now shift as fast as I want and it's rarely notchy grinds
- high rpms still require a lot of effort to shift
5) SS clutch line + poly shifter base + metal shifter cable bushings + removed clutch restrictor + Redline MT90 oil
- Overall shifting is smoother and requires less effort
- shifts are definitely less notchy

Next on my list is a 340g Razo counterweight shift knob. I'm hoping this helps reduce the amount of effort it takes to shift fast.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 05:05 PM
  #17  
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Thanks for the list! I do not experience much grinding, and my primary gripe about shifting is the inconsistent clutch take out. I have a difficult time "feeling" the catch point of the clutch and releasing smoothly and quickly from there. Part of it is practice, of course. But also, it seems like the clutch is inconsistent and numb. I have been driving a stick for over 15 years and cannot remember getting so frustrated at taking off in a car. Not racing starts or launching hard mind you, just quick take offs where I do not feel like I am riding the clutch too much.

I'm hoping removing the restrictor will help this.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 05:22 PM
  #18  
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The best thing you can do to cure inconsistent clutch take out is the braided steel clutch line. As things warm up under the hood take out becomes really inconsistent. For me pulling off the intersatate and immediatley getting stuck in heavy traffic on a hot summer day was the worst. The braided steel line is the remedy.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 01:05 AM
  #19  
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From: Western NY
Originally Posted by marksae
These are the steps I've taken towards making my car shift better.

1) SS clutch line
- helped shifting a little
- slight grinds happened less often
2) SS clutch line + poly shifter base bushings
- shifting was just a little more precise
3) SS clutch line + poly shifter base + metal shifter cable bushings
- shifting noticeably more precise
- still get slight grinds when shifting moderately fast
4) SS clutch line + poly shifter base + metal shifter cable bushings + removed clutch restrictor
- clutch pedal had to be adjusted after the restrictor removal
- made the biggest difference of all
- can now shift as fast as I want and it's rarely notchy grinds
- high rpms still require a lot of effort to shift
5) SS clutch line + poly shifter base + metal shifter cable bushings + removed clutch restrictor + Redline MT90 oil
- Overall shifting is smoother and requires less effort
- shifts are definitely less notchy

Next on my list is a 340g Razo counterweight shift knob. I'm hoping this helps reduce the amount of effort it takes to shift fast.
nice list
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 03:41 PM
  #20  
Jakeg97's Avatar
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From: Western NY
Originally Posted by Deca Auto
did anyone take out the clutch restrictor while you were at it. I'm thinking about it.....
of course
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 04:28 PM
  #21  
OneFastEVO's Avatar
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From: Hartland, WI
Money well spent!!
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 10:26 PM
  #22  
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From: Colorado
the Redline MT90 oil would go where? also where is the clutch restrictor and whats are the down sides to removing it? thanks!

evoisdream
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 10:32 PM
  #23  
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From: SF, CA
I used MT90 in my transmission. I use the OE fluid in my transfer case and rear diff.

The clutch restrictor is located at the slave cylinder behind the banjo bolt. It's easiest to remove the slave cylinder from the car to take it out.

The restrictor acts as a cushion for your drivetrain if you do a clutch drop. If you can train your left leg to cushion the drivetrain during the launch by slipping the clutch, then you won't have any problems with broken drivetrain parts.
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 11:11 PM
  #24  
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From: Colorado
hrmmm where are all the resivors or what for the fluids is everything under the hood? soory kinda noob with fluid stuff
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 11:21 PM
  #25  
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From: SF, CA
The brake and clutch fluid share the same reservior. There's a divider in there so you don't have to worry about losing your brakes if your clutch line leaks.

This website has an detailed write-up with pics on installing a clutch line and removing the restrictor.

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...=3_4&tech_id=4
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