The Profec B is an awesome unit, if you take the time to understand and set it up properly. Hold like a rock, just needs fine tuning to get that way. I love it.

 

A'pex Avc-r

 

HKS all the way. Basically, you get what you pay for.

 

yep you use the manual mode and set the boost with the "set" setting, higher the number, the more boost. There are 4 channels you can use to save your settings, I run channel one when driving pump, 2 for race gas. Also has warning feature, you can set how much boost you want to run, if you hit that limit, it sets a warning light and lowers the boost so you don't overboost... you can adjust on how quickly it pulls boost down. Even better, you can use the Power Meter in conjunction with the EBC, and you can have speed dependent boost control.

 

E-Boost here. I love it, so easy to install. Incredibly easy to tune, Change on the go, No fuzzy logic, Digital boost gauge, 2 auxilary outputs, audible alarm, peak hold, overboost shutdown, adjustable sensitivities, gate pressure adjustments..... I got mine for 450, I've seen them lower here and there though.

 

I second that, I use have the same ebc in my RX-7, never had any issues with the HKS EVC.

 

i rock the avcr and the avcr rocks me =)

 

MY 2 best picks, I have the old Blitz DSBC in my Evo 6 and holds rock steady boost all the time, one adjustment for 4 selectable preset boost levels. Boost level is adjusted using a gain number and the controller automatically sets boost response..
2nd choice is the old Profec B on which is steady but has a hassle of setting the response sharpness using gain, but is relatively fast to achieve...
Worst to use, the Profec B spec 2 which has gain and start boost function which is redundant in my opinion, users get confused adjusting both and most of the time boost is wavy... Once set, leave it and dun ever touch it!!

 

Mine has issues when its cold out I set it for 1.5 bar and it goes to 2.0 bar in the cold the car dont like it. Its coming out I ordered a Halman RX controller.

 

ID3 is pretty simple... if I am not wrong, the Set value determines the duty cycle while the Gain value determines how "responsive" the boost controller is.

Dialing in the numbers is all it takes to configure the ID3 in manual mode.

Auto mode is simpler... you just set the boost level you want to get, but my mechanic said it wouldn't be as accurate for our turbos. Never tried it before.

You can have 4 different boost settings (ie for Set and Gain).

You can also link up with a Power Meter or RVIT device to have speed-dependent boost maps.. eg you can have Map 1 to work from, say 0 to 60mph, another for 61 to 100 etc.

Holding boost seems to be pretty good. Don't dial in too high a Gain value or you will end up spiking the boost levels.

IMHO, it is easier to use than Apexi AVCR which in manual tuning mode would require you to adjust as you drive through each gear (well 5 of 6 if you have the MR) to redline to calibrate it properly but it doesn't seem to be as full featured as the AVCR which can show u injector duty cycles etc. You only have to do this ONCE, but each time you modify something else, the EBC settings will need to be adjusted as well. With the ID3, you just have to change the numbers. With AVCR, well.. you need to find that LONG DESERTED ROAD again

 

I run the Apexi AVC-R and it is very easy to setup and tune. It has handy playback features, and the obvious peak hold options. comes with two settings, plus if you want to install a scramble switch you can.

holds my boost rock steady, and to boot its very bling bling

 

Greddy e-01 here. No problems in Hi or Lo settings for a year now. Also have a brand new 1 for sale too...

 

Where do you find the long straight roads to pull up to redline in sixth gear?

 

1st gen profec B was the BOMB. NO fluctuations regardless of weather, car, etc.

 

I use a blitz dual-sbc. it does the job right... I would never trust a MBC on a car, I pay to much for the car to risk it.