http://www.taboospeedshop.com/SCR.htm

Hope this helps to all those with clutch adjustment questions.

Also, it's ACT 2600 (ACT HDSS) specific.

That is all.



Just on the diagram part is great, i don't know about the 1/4 inch rod part.

http://www.automotivearticles.com/Cl...xplained.shtml

other ones...

 

Good info. It looks like the adjustment rod will need to be turn clockwise or lower. I guess the difficult part is how much. Is this trial and error?

 

yeh, from what i'm going through, it's a long trial and error.

I've already adjusted 4 times today and it's still not where i want to be.

 

I have a question about this. Do you think the locking nut can come loose? Because all of a sudden my clutch enguagment is right off the floor and it is slipping.

 

very interesting. good post !

 

The detail is great and the illustrations are too, but the reasoning is faulty. Any length added to the slave rod will not change the engagement point, but just push fluid back to the reservoir, just like it does when the clutch wears. This is how a hydraulic system self-adjusts. When the pedal is all the way up a port opens up in the master cylinder that allow fluid to flow to and from the reservoir. There is obviously no pressure at that point and the system adjusts the amount of fluid needed to fill the system. By lengthening the rod all you are doing is reducing the amount of fluid needed. Adding length to the master cylinder rod on the other hand will change the engagement point because it reduces the amount of freeplay before moving the m/c piston and pumping fluid to the slave.

 

My ACT works to perfection. I did not make any adjustments, the specs for the free play at pedal is in the owners manual. It is a shame that some companys take advantage of the uninformed in such a shamless way. Dirk you were overly kind in your comments. Plok you misght get with Act about your difficulties before you ruin your nice new clutch with some of this nonsense.