The clutch feels nice, pedal pressure and all. Its just when it sits over night, or for a day or 2, the pedal is halfway to the floor, and i cant go into any gears. I installed the clutch myself, and was pretty confident the TOB snapped in good. But, last thing im gonna do is exam the clutch pedal assembly and install a new slave master cylinder. Thanks.

 

Not to doubt you but are you sure ALL the air is out of the system.
The master cylinder resevoir is tricky with the clutch supply. It has to be full at all times or you end up sucking air.

Fool proof bleeding method.
Remove the bolt on slave cyliner closes to fork, loosen other bolt slightly.
Push pushrod in and swing slave cylinder out so pin is free of fork.
Put a hose on the bleeder with a nice tight fit and open bleeder 1/2 turn.
Fill master cylinder on the high side of full but not the neck.

Now push the push rod all the way in and let it come all the way out a good 10 times.
Keep a close eye on the master cylinder fluid as you do it.
Close the bleeder, remove the hose and reinstall the slave cylinder.

Now bleed the clutch using the same method you have been about 4 times.
Once again keeping a close eye on the master cylinder fluid. Use your last bleed or two to set the level in the master cylinder to where it is supposed to be.

And I have to ask. Since you reinstalled the restrictor you are having a problem with the pedal not going all the way down. Are you sure it is installed properly?

 

did you check your clutch resevoir carefully? the clutch of course shares the brake's resevoir... so the division is a bit hard to distinguish. the resevoir will always look full... but you gotta look at the part that is for hte clutch.. it could be done dry and you might not notice czu the brake side looks full. just lettin' you know that that's what happened to me.

 

I used the same method of bleeding found on http://www.evomoto.com. I had a clear hose attachted to the bleeder and i saw no air bubbles. Bled for atleast 10 pumps.
My fluid level was always above the filler neck, it was actually closed to topped off max.... is this bad?
The pedal doesnt have a problem going down, it feels perfect. Just when it sits, pedal will be halfway low, but still depresses in and out. The new slave cylinder came with the restrictor already installed.
Thats true, but when ive been bleeding it, wouldnt i see massive air gaps? The fluid coming out is solid, no air bubbles.

Thanks for the help...

 

Where you at in MD. Maybe I can help you out with it.
I had similar issues when I did my exedy twin and SS clutch line. Alittle pedal adjustment and re-bleeding it many times and the problem was solved. Oh yea, the shorter actuator rod from lancershop helped more than anythin.

 

TIMZCAT... i performed ur method of bleeding, and found alot of air bubbles coming out when manually bleeding at the slave cyl. After solid fluid came out, i proceeded to bleed the normal way. Saw some tiny air bubbles, so i bled until saw solid fluid. I bled ALOT of times on both ways, atleast 12-13 pumps each. Pedal felt good, but still, i let it sit for about 1 day, same thing, pedal is halfway to the floor.
I was also thinking it could be the pedal assembly, but why does it do it when it sits?
Sr20... im located in rockville.

Thanks for the help.

 

you have a leak somewhere in your system... a very small one... over time it let's air in... but it's not immediately obvious becuase the clutch doesn't require that much fluid to operate.

i'm gonna ask this... did you use your stock banjo bolt when you replaced the clutch line. if not... you have to use it... the stock one is the only one that will not leak.

 

Im PRETTY sure i used the new one supplied in the kit.. but ill have to double check tomorrow. It was leaking there when i first installed the SS line. I installed new crush washers and it stopped leaking. The banjo bolt that connects to the slave master cylinder. I didnt know you have to reuse the stock one. If this is true, that might be it.

 

the stock banjo bolt is several mm shorter than the ones provided in most kits, at least this is what other peopel found and also what i found with mine. this difference will cause the hole in the bolt to point not in the middle of the line but to the side of it... even if you somehow stopped the leaking i think that's just a bandaid... you should use the stock banjo bolt.

i'm really hoping this fixes your problem because i can see it's getting a bit tedius... after you do this swatp you'll of course have to bleed again.

 

Cool, thanks for the info. Yeah, i used the one in the kit, so luckily i still have the stock one and swapped that one in. Bled it AGAIN and drove it. Feels good so far, its going to sit threw the night and hopefully tomorrow ill have some good news. Till then...

 

I am absolutely DYING to know whether you've had success here or not. I have spent thousands now installing and re-installing my Exedy Twin trying to correct a problem that sounds identical to yours, and I have an Alamo SS clutch line installed on my car as well and am beginning to wonder if air in the line is the problem. The car is barely drivable in traffic due to engagement problems. Practically stalls at every stoplight with ultra-baby-slow engagement all the time. Restrictor is stock, in place. I am SICK of this.

So how goes it for you now? Matt Gold from Exedy recommends no SS clutch line at all, so I suppose I might remove it and try to go back to stock.

Thanks,
Adam

 

yeah let's hear the verdict... i definitely think that was the problem.

 

Ad-rock. I would remove the stock restrictor. It improved my enguagement 100%.
FWIW......I've launched my car no less the 20x's with it removed and have had no ill effects.
Also try the actuator rod from lancershop, its pretty much mandatory for smooth acting exedy twin. Its worth a try for as cheap as it is.

 

Thanks for the tips sr20, I appreciate it. I was thinking of ordering the rod, though I want to rule out faulty line, faulty install, faulty clutch itself before ordering anything else. Car is going back in the shop (sigh) again next week to try and diagnose, I'll keep you all posted.

Best,
Adam

 

Sorry for delay....
The car sat threw that night and a good portion of the next day. It STILL does it. I swapped out the banjo bolt that came with the kit and installed the stock one. No leaks, and it sill does it. But after a day or two, i bled it again, and saw air bubbles. So i rebled it with solid fluid coming out and let it sit for another day WITHOUT driving it, and it didnt do it. I always drove it after bleeding it to see how it shifted,but this time i just bled it and let it sit. I think whenever i pump the pedal, the small leak is sucking in air. It has to be leaking somewhere, but i cant see anything. The only places i can think where it can be leaking from are the slave master cylinder, or the black rubber hose going to both master cylinders. Besides the moaning and groaning the exedy clutch makes, it drives awesome. 1st gear is kinda sketchy starting off, but its not bad. Thinking of building a pressure tester of some sort to see where its leaking. Im going to quadroople check the lines and connections for leaks, might even unbolt bolt master cylinders to see if it leakin from the backsides. Thanks again for the help.