Hi guys, I am new to this forum, and am going to get an Evo 8 in about 4 months, just have to manouver some finances first.
I am not new to the tuning/jap car envirmonet, currently building up 2 gen MR2's, one with ITB\s and over 500whp, using the gen2 3sgte.

Now I have a few question about the engine, from what I can gather, it is still an interferance engine, it has semi forged pistons. I also heard about people having certain engine troubles, and tranny problems. Dont ask me to quote the specifics, as I dont give much credit to hearsay.
That is why I am asking you guys.
My plan is to have about 350-400awhp using something like a GT3071R.

Please help me with some info.

T

 

Sounds like a good goal, but you could hit that power figure on the stock turbo. The 3071R will take you around the 450awhp mark.

Of course, it depends whose dyno you're talking about, race gas or pump, and where you live (air density and pump gas quality)

 

I want to know what the stock bottom end is willing to take as far as strain, i.e. tq. I do know that 264's are likely a wise choice for those powerlevels. I dont want to go 272...want to keep the lower end managable.

Also I know the stock rev limiter is set at 7200, but with the good rod ratio of the evo engine, coouldnt that be pushed to at least 8K?

T

 

A lot of tuners offer staged kits for what you want to accomplish:
Vishnu
Buscher (dynoflash)
Turbotrix
Road Race Engineering
XS engineering
Etc ....

Are you looking for? Name of tuners or relaibility stories? Or how to get to your goal?

 

Geometrically the engine is set up well for reving, however the rod bolts and valve springs will limit you on reving. Head studs are also a good idea when upping the boost.

 

What about tranny and clutch.

I have been reading up on a few things, seems like the new evo8 engine will produce 400whp by spitting on it, very cool...

T

 

bump...

 

Here it is in a nutshell.

Stock rev limiter is around 7600 RPM, it can go to 8K on stock internals with no problems and this can be accomplished with a reflash of the ECU, or a stand alone engine managment system.

If you are a really good tuner who NEVER hits detonation you can stick with stock head bolts..... but they are highly recomended and cheap. May as well put them in when you do the cams.

The stock clutch is a piece of trash. Most people have had good luck with twin plate clutches but they are expensive. If you can live with heavy pedal pressure there are cheaper single plate options available.

Some people have had issues with the synchos. If you don't have obvious mods most dealers will handle this without problems under warrenty... some are not as understanding though. The gears themselves, shift forks, and other hardware are strong.

If you plan to spin it higher than 8,000 RPM getting rod bolts is highly recomended.

Other than that, all the standard go fast ideas work great.

Keith