Ok, electronic dump valve, which is an exhaust cut-out, now I understand. That is weird, I've seen a few setups on different cars, but all they do is just to help exhaust gas flows faster, thus decreasing spool up time, which makes a lot more power. On the other hand, your engine is probably running lot closer to the edge when the dump valve is opened, thus it will pull timing trying to keep the motor in one piece. I'm brainstorming here, so please excuse me if I confuse you. Ok, think I can give you some ideas to try. If you are running stock heat range plugs, I would get a set of one step colder even if you are running stock boost level. I know people will probably say they are not needed if you are not running that high of boost level, but remember, when a motor is making serious amount of power, it's more fragile against dentonation, so get a set of colder plugs, and get the ECU tuned for the plugs with the dump valve opened. Good luck, and if I've thought of anything else, I will post up tomorrow.

 

I appreciate the helpful advice. I may upgrade to NGK Iridium's... any suggestion on which ones to use? Not sure which Iridium's would be ideal for most evo's and which ones would be 1 step colder.

I'm bringing my car to Top Speed Performance this Saturday to have it dyno'd and I'll have them drive it just to see what they think... but any more pre-suggestions and advice is definitely welcome.

Here's a link to the electronic dump valve, in case you're curious:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=127204

 

Best guess is that you don't spend a lot of time in the lower gears so the frequency constantly changes. The RPM does not rise as fast in the higher gears so you can obtain a more consistent frquency output. Of course when it cuts outs the frequency will change and the reading will be restored at the MAF until it happens again, and so on...
The other thing is, it is a particular frequency (or range there of) to cause the MAF to freak out. The code you set makes no sense to any actual flow since it is saying you flow is low and it is exactly the opposite. The right noise though and you cancel out the frequency present.

They used to make exhausts the has a frequency generator that could counteract the exhaust pulses and make the car competely quiet. It's the same concept but in reverse.

Also, on the exhaust. I just want to warn you that the undercoating is flammable and can ignite from the cut out. Remember with the open exhaust there is unburnt fuel there so you are adding an accelerant to something that is already flammable. Oxygen is not a problem so conditions are ripe.
I just don't want to see you on here in a month posting that your car caught on fire. That undercoating is like napalm when it is ignited so if it lights, it's hard to put out.

 

If the problem is the MAF then it should show up pretty easy on the dyno since you start the run in 3rd or 4th and hold it all the way up to redline. Your bound to hit the right frequency in that situation. On the street that is harder to achieve.

 

People have good results with NGKs, I would do the same thing.

 

hey, if you have a utec your CEL flashes when your det sensor senses detonation. thats part of its programming.

i know it might be 2 weeks late, but thought id let you know.

 

It sounds like a random misfire code. It usually has the same symptoms your car has and it usually comes on at higher gears and high speeds. One of my friends had a similar problem and had the tranny vibration and had a whole new tranny put in under warranty b/c they could not fix it.And usually when the light flashes it means the ECU is detecting some kind of knock or detonation in the motor and puts in safe mode. I would take the boost contr off and take it to the dealer