Detonation damage always occurs on cylinder number two first befor ethe others. More proof the gas quality had nothing to do with this.

 

galant block is not stroked... it is bored... and you don't have to add stroke to it... which is why i recommended.

 

I hear you but that was the problem. I've talked to many professionals like Greg GSC, Dan Pruven, AL, MalibuJack, Logic Proformance, Gill and more. They all agreed after talking to me that it is related to the gas. As far as sleeving they dont recomend doing it, its doing it half ***. lso #4 is pretty popular to go first do some searches you'll find the same answer. Plus that one might have just had a lean condition for a second and thats all it takes.

Just want to get this fixed so I can get my car back.

 

I'm not sure I follow your line of reasoning. Use of a fuel with a low octane rating such as 85 or 87 while running high boost levels will result in detonation.

 

My point exactly

 

Man, that sux hard.....i would have jacked that gas pumper in the face, let alone pay for my car to get fixed. Anyways, i say stick with the stock 2.0L, but go from some super strong internals just for added proctection and gain some more HP. Good luck with this bro......definitely go after the gas station cause they admitted that they screwed up. I dont think a "very sorry" is gonna make your car run again. I hope for ur sake that they pay up!

 

This is what I am thinking.

 

Now that I've actually studied the other cylinders in those photos, I'd have to agree. Either cylinder 4 went lean or the piston simply chunked out. The other cylinders look pretty much perfect.

 

The Galant block is stroked, the Galant 4G64 is 6mm taller then the 4G63. And someone mentioned before about having the get new motor mounts to make it work, you dont. The reason I can say you dont, and say it with confidence..... I run a galant enthusiast website similar to EVOm, and I also have an EVO engine in my galant. And I didnt have to do anything special with the motor mounts. I am currently building my old 4G64 block that came in the car, im gonna lay some serious $$$$ into that and make it a full race motor. As far as adaptor brackets and what not, that is all a lie. We laid the EVO headgasket onto the 4G64 block and every single oil and water passage lined up perfect. RRE and RNR both said that you need special adapter plates and blah blah blah. I talked to Magnus Motorsports, for those of you who dont know, they are the kings of the 4G64 bottom end, and they were the FIRST, to do it in an EVO, the only thing you need to do to make it go together is get a timing belt from a 1994 Galant DOHC, that was the only year that the 4G64 came in DOHC. As far as the blocks you can use, you can use any 4G64 block from any 4 cylinder 1999-2003 Galant or 2000-2005 Eclipse. Some of the outlander and endevor blocks fits too, but i've already compared the ones from the galant and eclipse so i know they work. I hope this helps you with your engine building needs.

 

ok... he takes it... so... it's still a good idea :P

 

Its a shame that many professionals would tell you that the damage occurred from low quality fuel. Which lead to excessive detonation. Simply a poor diagnosis.

I have seen dozens of 4g63s with detonation damage. What you have pictured there is not detonation damage. When you get severe detonation in one cylinder the other three will be close behind. All four cylinders are getting nearly the same air fuel. The distribution of airflow through the manifold is not perfect and the number two cylinder recieves the most air. Since all the injectors fire from the same ecu signals it means number two will run a bit leaner than the other three. When a motor that has been run lean is disassembled its always number two that shows the most piston damage. I see this pattern over and over again.

There is no way the motor here suffered from poor fuel quality. if it did the other three pistons would be showing some damage as well. There is a difference between detonation and preignition damage. Preignition damage is much quicker and much hotter and results in burned piston as you see here. Detonation damage slowly eats the pistons. Look at the rod bearings I bet they look great. If they suffered detonation damage they will look like a washboard. Little ridges form on the surface. looks kinda like a dirt road does after it gets ripples in it.

 

what caused is preignition?

 

God damn that sucks bro, hope you get it back on the road soon.

 

hmm... well this sounds interesting.

 

Something similar happened to me, but it was my fault. I had a typo on my injector scaling on my Utec. I typed it 650 instead of 550. I made an all gear pull. By the time I hit 5th, the EGT gauge was pegged. I shut it down, but I was too late.
The #3 and 4 pistons melted, the tips of both spark plugs melted off and one of the #3 exh valve heads melted off and bounced around. Happened REALLY fast.
I ended up buying a used motor off Ebay. I built my old head, pulled the bal shafts out of the new shortblock and stuck em together. ended up costing me about $4500. I just recouped some by selling the good stock head and have the blown shortblock for sale now (it's rebuildable with a bore job. No deep gouges like yours).

While rebuilding I sent my injectors off to RC eng. The determined my #3 injector was only flowing 609CC, the rest were around 630CC. After their cleaning and balancing, they are all flowing 660CC (+/- 2cc).

I also had to get my turbo rebuilt because peices went thru it. You better check yours out.

Now I'm even running leaner than I did when I blew up, but I running H2O/Methanol injection. I also increased my knock protection threshold and amount of timing that's pulled.
I'm pushing 22Psi and 22deg of timing on 91octane in 80-100deg weather (AZ desert), with NO KNOCK!!
Good luck