i just bled my lifters, i pulled of the rocker pulled out the lifter, stuck a paperclip down the hole and pumped it until all the oil was gone. i then reinstalled them and the rocker sat noticibly loose against the lifter and the valvespring. i could push the lifters down and before i couldnt. i put everything back together, primed the motor, checked my oil, and started it up. now i have a loud ticking from what seems like every lifter. i let the car run for a few minutes and would slowly rev it up to about 3000 rpm and there was no change. if anyone could give me some sort of answer to this that would be awesome, i was planning on autoxing the car this sunday but if my car is messed up then i wont be able to make it.

 

i have had loud lifter noise for about 20K now. after it warms up, it goes away. now the only ticking noise i have that is annoying is injector noise.

 

no i had the lifter tick before thats why i bled the lifters this is like 2-3 times louder coming from all the lifters it seems like

 

Funny ,I thought they were supposed to be filled with oil.
You only bleed them if air gets trapped and displaces the oil, which causes the ticking.
Sounds like you have all of them air locked now.
Unless, I am wrong, you need to figure out a way to get them filled with oil again.

 

if i run the car shouldnt they fill themselfs with oil again?

 

on vfaq, i followed thier lifter writeup, it says that there will be clattering at startup and im guessing thats what is happening so they have to refil themselfs with the correct amount of oil for the cam, so i am going to try running the car for awhile to see what happens but i already ran it for a few minutes and im not sure if the noise got any better. any other input would be appreciated

 

Let's see if I can cut and paste this from the manual:

If an abnormal noise (chattering noise) is heard by malfunction of the lash adjuster immediately after starting the engine and
does not disappear, it might be the lash adjusters. Perform the following check.
NOTE: An abnormal noise due to malfunction of the lash
adjuster is produced immediately after starting the engine and changes with the engine speed, irrespective of the engine load.
If, the abnormal noise is not produced immediately after starting the engine or does not change with the engine speed, or it
changes with the engine load, the lash adjuster is not the cause for the abnormal noise.
NOTE: When the lash adjuster is malfunctioning, the abnormal noise is rarely eliminated by running the engine at idle speed.
However, the abnormal noise may disappear only when seizure is caused by oil sludge in the engine whose oil is not maintained properly.
1. Start the engine.
2. Check if the abnormal noise produced immediately after starting the engine changes with the change in the engine speed.
If the abnormal noise is not produced immediately after starting the engine or it does not change with the engine
speed, the lash adjuster is not the cause for the noise. Therefore, investigate other causes. The abnormal noise is
probably caused by some other parts than the engine proper if it does not change with the engine speed. (In this case, the
lash adjuster is in good condition.)
3. With the engine idling, change the engine load to make sure that there is no change in the level of abnormal noise.
If there is a change in the level of abnormal noise, suspect a tapping noise due to worn crankshaft bearing or connecting
rod bearing. (In this case, the lash adjuster is in good condition.)
4. After completion of warm-up, run the engine at idle to check
for abnormal noise.
If the noise is reduced or disappears, clean the lash adjuster (Refer to GROUP 11B − Engine overhaul − Rocker Arms
and Camshaft − Inspection P.11B-32.) It is suspected that
the noise is due to collapse of the lash adjuster. If there is no change in the level of the abnormal noise, proceed to step 5.
5. Run the engine to bleed the lash adjuster system. (Refer to.)
6. If the abnormal noise does not disappear after air bleeding operation, clean the lash adjuster (Refer to GROUP 11B −
Engine overhaul − Rocker Arms and Camshaft − Inspection
P.11B-32.)


Bleeding lash adjuster system
NOTE: Parking the vehicle on a grade for a long time may drain oil from the lash adjuster, causing air to enter the high pressure
chamber when starting the engine.
NOTE: After parking for many hours, oil may drain from the oil passage and take time before oil is supplied to the lash
adjuster, causing air to enter the high pressure chamber.
NOTE: In the above cases, abnormal noise can be eliminated by bleeding the lash adjuster system.
1. Check engine oil. Add or change oil as required.
NOTE: If the engine oil level is low, air is sucked from the oil screen, causing air to enter the oil passage.
NOTE: If the engine oil level is higher than specification, oil may be stirred by the crankshaft, causing oil to be mixed
with air creating aerated (foaming) oil.
NOTE: If oil is deteriorated, air is not easily separated from oil, increasing the quantity of air contained in oil.
NOTE: If air mixed with oil enters the high pressure chamber inside the lash adjuster from the above causes, air in the
high pressure chamber is compressed excessively while the valve is being opened, resulting in an abnormal noise when
the valve closes. This is the same phenomenon as that observed when the
valve clearance has become excessive. The lash adjuster
can resume normal function when air entered the lash adjuster is removed.
2. Idle the engine for one to three minutes to warm it up.
3. Repeat the operation pattern, shown in left figure, at no load to check for abnormal noise. (Usually the abnormal noise is
eliminated after repetition of the operation 10 to 30 times. If, however, no change is observed in the level of abnormal
noise after repeating the operation more than 30 times, suspect that the abnormal noise is due to some other factors.)
4. After elimination of abnormal noise, repeat the operation shown in left figure five more times.
5. Run the engine at idle for one to three minutes to make sure that the abnormal noise has been eliminated.

The figure they refer to in step 3 shows having the engine at idle, then slowly raising the rpms to 3K (takes about 15s),
then closing the throttle abruptly, wait 15s and do it again.
The figure looks like a sawtooth, slowly aising from idle to 3k, then abruptly to idle

 

thanks for the post ill go try it out now

 

it worked great, car is idleing perfect and revving perfect with no loud noises! thanks for all the help!

 

Thanks mikesevo8 - I've also posted this information at least twice, and I've seen it posted by others as well. Good candidate for a search...