Depends on what you mean by "intake." If by "intake," you mean something that replaces the stock airbox, then yes. If you just put in a panel filter, then no. The recommended choices are 1) stock intake/airbox + stock filter, then 2) stock intake + aftermarket drop-in filter. A K&N drop-in filter will flow more air, but it's air cleansing abilities have been questioned, and the pre-oiled aspect has been known to drip oil down in the air box.

 

You also have an MR with a 6 speed that has a bigger exhaust side on the turbo, and a few tenths faster stock for stock. But to answer your question, that run was on 93 at 22 psi, flashed for a catback only. I never mentioned anthing about the intake, you'll do just fine with the stocker.

 

Ok, man, the guy was just asking about exhausts 3 days ago trying to get everyone to help him decide which one to get. He started several threads asking about the HKS 30th Anniversary cat-back and about DPs that fit perfectly, so he has no exhaust. This is the same guy who bought his car used and REMOVED the clear bra after being told vehemently not to! He then makes another post asking for help, because his hood looks ruined afterwards.

You may have gained 2/10 due to running high boost on a BOV that could hold it, but that in NO WAY has anything to do with this thread. We are talking about a stock car with no mods on stock 03 boost and how an Injen intake and greddy BOV do _NOT_ help in any way, shape, or form. You know this, but you just want to argue. My suggestions to this guy are to do the OTHER mods first, so that he actually GAINS power ,and if in fact he gets to the point where he can BENEFIT from such mods, then he can get them. For now, it's just a waste of money. Later, the Injen still isn't needed, but he can bling if he wants to. A strong BOV IS important when running high boost, but it doesn't appear he'll be doing that for a while.

I'm not sure what you're talking about with the titanium exhaust. I assume you bought the more expensive titanium version, because it's lighter, right? As far as I know, that's not being ricey. I went with stainless steel, because it was about half the price of a titanium cat-back. It happens to be polished and looks really nice, but I only got it for the performance. For you, the 8lbs of weight savings were worth the extra $350 or so, right?

 

Yes, you did.

The MR w/6spd is irrelevant, but the 10.5 hotside does make a difference, but part of the reason we run a few tenths faster stock vs stock is because the boost is already turned up to 20.5. You make up part of that difference just by raising the boost. I will hit 108 with this same stock boost, while you presumably did it on 22psi.

 

Good job Warrtalon on hijacking this thread and turning it into a total piece of crap.

Not everyone wants the bare necessities to run faster times. If this was true, and your hypothesis on anything more expensive than the cheapest possible productfor a specific gain is considered a rice product, then I'd consider the Evo a rice car and you a ricer. After all, *all* you're worried about is running faster times at the 1/4mi strip for the least amount of money involved, right? Well then...

You're a ricer for not buying much cheaper platform (GVR4, 1g tsi, even old-school muscle cars). Evo must be a ricer car because it comes with shiny paint, a big carbon-fiber wing (most do), and even power-steering... after all, those don't really help with 1/4mi times, do they? Oh, and you bought a MR... which means you paid roughtly $3,000 MORE than most of us GSR owners... which makes you a ricer for already being $3,000 in the hole deeper than us for... what.... .1 of a second (argueable) faster than a GSR?

You get the point I'm trying to make here? Don't go around calling different products rice mods because they don't have the cheapest price tags on them. Buying an upgrade BOV is completely fine for a first mod... some people like to PLAN AHEAD and purchase supporting mods for their platform for future upgrades. In essence, one could buy an upgraded BOV as their first mod, planning to turn up the boost higher than stock levels one day.

 

Good lord, man, you're going off the deep end. You all keep giving this guy credit for "planning ahead" when you know very well that he's just doing it because it's the Honda thing to do. He wants the intake to shine and the BOV to make noise. Neither of these help in ANY WAY. Why would you plan ahead by buying a MORE EXPENSIVE part that does NOTHING in the present when he could buy the LESS expensive part and get power NOW?

Your analogy of the Evo vs a 1g or the MR vs a GSR is completely null and void. I do not have my Evo just to go fast in the 1/4-mile with the least amount of money. I own the Evo so that it would be a.most as fast as my previous DSMs the moment it came off the truck, but with reliaiblity, a warranty, and decent looks. I own an MR, because it has extra amenities that make it a better car than the other 05s, not because of it's 1/4-mile superiority, of which there is none. Rationalize all you want, but what I've been saying is true. There is no reason to spend $500 on two mods that do nothing for performance when he could spend $400 and actually gain 30-40hp. Then again, removing a clear bra that was worth around $1000 installed and that protects the paint was not really my idea of practicality or intelligence, so maybe that's how he'd prefer to go about his modding...?

 

You are a post-whoring douchebag from low humidity, dense and cool air'd northeast. All of your posts are irrelavent to this guys current thread and other threads which have about about as much to do with this thread than your mods or what you recommend. His thread was will the BOV and intake work together, not what Mr. low budget douchebag MR racer boy thinks is the most cost effective method. You're so such a super tuner that you still have a cat and were about to use leaded fuel before someone pointed out your mistake. You recommend a "jay-dee-emm" blow off valve which you have not even used yourself. The stock boost "spike" is 20.3psi. Stay out of people's threads if you have no relevent information to what they are asking for.

Yes the intake and BOV will work. The GReddy type S is still the best rated unit for the Evo application. Yes the stock bov leaks, but it improves driveability that way. The GReddy seals so well just 10% throttle is enough to spool your turbo up fast so it will drive a little differently. The pipes themselves will not add power, but the intake will. If looking good in the engine bay while providing some whp over the stock box/filter is your thing, this is a cost effective method for achieving that goal. Good Luck.

 

I did respond with relevant information. I explained what he would have to do if he used this combo, I said many people use it (most have problems due to no tune), and I offered alternative ways to use the money more effectively.

No, this combo does NOT work well together without a tune, so I'm not sure why you said it DOES work. They also are NOT cost-effective for "looking good" and adding hp. This combo won't add any hp at all for him, but it will "look" good, depending on your point of view, I guess.

I'm also in Virginia the Mason Dixon line, so if this is the low humidity, cool-air northeast, then NY must be the Arctic! Still bitter about the 12.4 with just a flash thing, eh? Yeah, I knew it was bs.

 

Yee-Haw! Bitter? No... You mad because your SAFC is no match for a flash? Pissed off because your not smart enough to realize your cat is robbing all your HP or bright enough not to use leaded race fuel with a stock cat oh King of budget racing? Bitter because I've got over 100 more whp than you in 100% humidity, 90 degrees FL and a stock turbo/airbox? We run the quarter mile on the equator. Questions, questions.... None of which have anything to do with this gentleman's thread.

 

Looks like you agree with me



--------------------------------------from one of your posts---------------------------


Also, the LICP is known to be quite a restriction, but not so much the UICP. If you do these two mods, I think you will have a good chance at knockin on the door of 11s. If there was a way you could hook up a little better, then that would be the easiest way to shave some tenths. 1.7s are great from my point of view, but I understand how you are wanting 1.6s, since you are making more power but are wasting it on tire spin.
__________________
05 MR Graphite Grey
12.83@106.30, 93 octane, S-AFC, K&N Drop-In, 1.76 60'
13.17@103.89, 93 octane (stock)
248awhp/238tq (stock) - Dynojet


----------------------------------------------------

When responding about how to "gain a few more tenths"

I rest my case.......

 

Huh, how do you rest your case? I said he could gain a few tenths from an LICP and something else (not shown in this cut) OR from a 1.6x 60', but NOT from the UICP. What does the Injen intake have to do with the LICP? The UICP does not help, and wow, I didn't realize the Injen cost $500 alone until I just looked up the retail price. That's even worse...

 

Get a works drop in 25% more surface area than a k&n

 

"If you do these two mods,"


Injen intake is half of that mod, plus an intake...

And you can pick them up for 350 to 400... How much does a set of intercooler pipes cost? Outside of Helix, well over 400.

 

My S-AFC is quite a match for the flash...why would I be mad? I haven't gotten upset at anything, and I'm glad you're doing well in Florida. I don't know why you claimed a 12.4 with "less"mods, but hey, whatever makes you feel better. I already had my S-AFC, and I don't want my ECU to get touched, nor do I want to pay for re-flashes, nor do I want a static tune at a specific temp/humidity when weather changes on a daily basis (and I tune the S-AFC on a daily basis, if necessary), and I like being able to adjust for race/pump gas. I'm quite smart enough to know that my cat robs power, but I'm staying as stock as possible for warranty/legality/emissions reasons. You can appreciate that, I'm sure. I also know not to use leaded gas...I was referring to UNLEADED RACE GAS, but was only calling it race gas. After Petey's comment, I had to go back and double-check, but yes, the gas I was planning on using was Unleaded 112. I'm quite alright with you having 380whp, but your times/mph certainly don't show it. It may be 90 degrees and 100% humidity there NOW, but it wasn't back in January when you ran 12.3s. You can probably do better than 111mph...

See, you use the stock airbox...why suggest the Injen to this guy and say that it works fine, when you know it's not worth $500 replace the stock airbox and that it needs a tune just to run well?

 

Say what? The two mods I was referring to in this thread were a 10.5cm^2 hotside and an LICP. I don't know how in the world you would think i was talking about an Injen intake. Neither an LICP nor a 10.5cm^2 hotside has anything to do with the Injen Intake for $400. A set of Helix IC pipes costs $389, but I've already said the UICP isn't needed. An LICP is $225 at AMS and is proven to add hp over the stock one that necks down to 1.5". I don't plan on paying $225, but that is at least an example.