Magnus Motorsports-Not Just INTAKES!
Magnus Motorsports-Not Just INTAKES!
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/
Dog box tranny, stroker motors anywhere from 2.0-2.4, with a 2.1 2.2 and 2.3 in there if Im not mistaken. These guys are nuts! They've got some serous hardware and it seems nobody is using it. I'd like a dogbox myself.
Dog box tranny, stroker motors anywhere from 2.0-2.4, with a 2.1 2.2 and 2.3 in there if Im not mistaken. These guys are nuts! They've got some serous hardware and it seems nobody is using it. I'd like a dogbox myself.
Another quick question
I've heard only nothing but great things about these guys. How many guys here have a engine from them?
It would be great to hear more about there engine build ups. 2.0, 2.3 or 2.4, how it revs and what the rev limit is.
It would be great to hear more about there engine build ups. 2.0, 2.3 or 2.4, how it revs and what the rev limit is.
here's one bad thing about them. their mani's can't handle high boost.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=143368
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=143368
Thats one instance, but it does happen.
As for the motors, Ive been reading and apparently all the 2.0, 2.1 and 2.2 can all handle like 9500 revs. The 2.4 has a great rod ratio, as usual, but the 2.1 is a DESTROKED 2.4, which is my favorite. That coupled with a nice big turbo and some wild cams would yield some nice results without the threat of failure. I dont know too much about it all, but Im crunching numbers and going through some old engine guide books to see what the optimal setup is.
That 2.1 seems promising, but I can't help wonder....if its so appealing, why hasn't it been done?
I'd love to stumble on an unorthodox "secret" and make a kick butt motor with a nice manifold....but these guys, along with the "dogmission" they've got, seem to have some serious hardward worth investigating.
As for the motors, Ive been reading and apparently all the 2.0, 2.1 and 2.2 can all handle like 9500 revs. The 2.4 has a great rod ratio, as usual, but the 2.1 is a DESTROKED 2.4, which is my favorite. That coupled with a nice big turbo and some wild cams would yield some nice results without the threat of failure. I dont know too much about it all, but Im crunching numbers and going through some old engine guide books to see what the optimal setup is.
That 2.1 seems promising, but I can't help wonder....if its so appealing, why hasn't it been done?
I'd love to stumble on an unorthodox "secret" and make a kick butt motor with a nice manifold....but these guys, along with the "dogmission" they've got, seem to have some serious hardward worth investigating.
Originally Posted by 11secEVO7
could someone explain how those dog gears on their site work..
do u just buy the gears alone from them and install it in your tranny?
what's the positive and negative?
do u just buy the gears alone from them and install it in your tranny?
what's the positive and negative?
Remember a dog box is not for the street. I compare it to a pack of cigarettes Every time you smoke you pull one form the pack. Just like a dog box, (if your not racing it and just driving it around the street) every time you shift you take one of the teeth away from the gear. Eventually you have none and need it rebuilt. So if it's for a street car, you'll be rebuilding a lot.
I was looking into a dog box but ended up going with a built TRE trans with their drag gearing. I love it.
Oh.. Magnus is a great company.
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You would have to know Marco to know how skilled he is. Whatever he touches goes fast and he can fab up just about anything. Many DSM's have and are using his 2.4 liter shortblock and it is also used in his racecar. It has dynoed in the 700AWHP on boost alone.
Like I've said before any of the major shops can build you a awesome car: AMS, Buschur, Magnus, Switzer, Turbotrix and the list goes on.
Like I've said before any of the major shops can build you a awesome car: AMS, Buschur, Magnus, Switzer, Turbotrix and the list goes on.
Originally Posted by EVOlunchbox
You would most likely buy the entire transmission that has the dog gearing in it.
Remember a dog box is not for the street. I compare it to a pack of cigarettes Every time you smoke you pull one form the pack. Just like a dog box, (if your not racing it and just driving it around the street) every time you shift you take one of the teeth away from the gear. Eventually you have none and need it rebuilt. So if it's for a street car, you'll be rebuilding a lot.
I was looking into a dog box but ended up going with a built TRE trans with their drag gearing. I love it.
Oh.. Magnus is a great company.
Remember a dog box is not for the street. I compare it to a pack of cigarettes Every time you smoke you pull one form the pack. Just like a dog box, (if your not racing it and just driving it around the street) every time you shift you take one of the teeth away from the gear. Eventually you have none and need it rebuilt. So if it's for a street car, you'll be rebuilding a lot.
I was looking into a dog box but ended up going with a built TRE trans with their drag gearing. I love it.
Oh.. Magnus is a great company.

I don't like the dog box analogy. The gears don't just loose teeth. The whole idea is that they're stronger and straight cut. Now to use that description on the stock trans is more like it. Syncros wear out, gears dont, they shatter or grind off and contaminate the gear fluid.
The big downsides are the straight-cut whine (not a big issue for most of us I'd imagine), having to change your fluid every 1500 miles, the ridiculously high cost, and yes, you will need to tear it down periodically and inspect. If you live your life a quarter mile at a time though, you NEED a dogbox.
The big downsides are the straight-cut whine (not a big issue for most of us I'd imagine), having to change your fluid every 1500 miles, the ridiculously high cost, and yes, you will need to tear it down periodically and inspect. If you live your life a quarter mile at a time though, you NEED a dogbox.
Originally Posted by 144mph
I don't like the dog box analogy. The gears don't just loose teeth. The whole idea is that they're stronger and straight cut. Now to use that description on the stock trans is more like it. Syncros wear out, gears dont, they shatter or grind off and contaminate the gear fluid.
The big downsides are the straight-cut whine (not a big issue for most of us I'd imagine), having to change your fluid every 1500 miles, the ridiculously high cost, and yes, you will need to tear it down periodically and inspect. If you live your life a quarter mile at a time though, you NEED a dogbox.
The big downsides are the straight-cut whine (not a big issue for most of us I'd imagine), having to change your fluid every 1500 miles, the ridiculously high cost, and yes, you will need to tear it down periodically and inspect. If you live your life a quarter mile at a time though, you NEED a dogbox.
what kind of life would u expect from it?
Originally Posted by EVOlunchbox
You would most likely buy the entire transmission that has the dog gearing in it.
Remember a dog box is not for the street. I compare it to a pack of cigarettes Every time you smoke you pull one form the pack. Just like a dog box, (if your not racing it and just driving it around the street) every time you shift you take one of the teeth away from the gear. Eventually you have none and need it rebuilt. So if it's for a street car, you'll be rebuilding a lot.
I was looking into a dog box but ended up going with a built TRE trans with their drag gearing. I love it.
Oh.. Magnus is a great company.
Remember a dog box is not for the street. I compare it to a pack of cigarettes Every time you smoke you pull one form the pack. Just like a dog box, (if your not racing it and just driving it around the street) every time you shift you take one of the teeth away from the gear. Eventually you have none and need it rebuilt. So if it's for a street car, you'll be rebuilding a lot.
I was looking into a dog box but ended up going with a built TRE trans with their drag gearing. I love it.
Oh.. Magnus is a great company.

you can drive a dog box without shifting hard... just get a hydraulic shifter :]
and btw... straight cut gears have not so much to do with strength also... which is a common misconception. straight cut gears are actually more likely to break because there are less teeth and there is more pressure on each tooth, where as with synchromesh gears there is more surface area and you get a high amount of contact points with pressure distributed over many many teeth. the REASON why sychromesh gears are weak is because they deflect load, the load is applied sideways and this can cause the bell housing to deflect and break or cause the gear itself to deflect and break. neither of these is a problem with straight cut gears.
Last edited by trinydex; Jun 12, 2005 at 05:29 AM.



