Clutch doesnt disengage correctly
Clutch doesnt disengage correctly
I need help. As some of you know I have had serious shifting problems at the track making my 1/4 times retarded. I have now deduced the problem but dont know exactly what to do to fix it. The problem is at 7.2 and higher RPMs under load the clutch will not disengage correctly. When I push the car hard to these RPMS and then push the clutch in and shift the car to nuetral you can 1.) Feel the shifter not want to leave the gear that it is in and 2.) The RPMs stay up higher (Feels like I just let off the gas and left it in gear) for about .2 seconds I would guess.
Why does this happen and how do I fix it? Is the clutch not properly adjusted. Does it have the common DSM problem with the shift fork pivot ball getting screwy? Is the clutch disc warped? I dont know what to do at this point.
Why does this happen and how do I fix it? Is the clutch not properly adjusted. Does it have the common DSM problem with the shift fork pivot ball getting screwy? Is the clutch disc warped? I dont know what to do at this point.
your master cylinder.
mine does that sometimes, from 2nd gear and 4th and 5th.
I think your clutch is disengaging a bit later, but engaging faster. just adjust it so the screw rod gets shorter inside the u bracket.
mine does that sometimes, from 2nd gear and 4th and 5th.
I think your clutch is disengaging a bit later, but engaging faster. just adjust it so the screw rod gets shorter inside the u bracket.
And any idea of why this would happen? It happened after my whole removing the tranny and reinstalling it about 4 times in row. But I never rebled to the clutch fluid or removed anything from the clutch system.
your clutch isn't engaging far enough.
clutch master cylinder rod is the rod that's attached to the clutch pedal.
adjust that with 12mm wrench and 7mm wrench.
you'll see a U bracket. adjust it where the screw rod (master cylinder rod) is shorter inside the U bracket.
usually it will be harder to shift at higher rpm.
Whoever installed your clutch forgot to do some adjustments.
clutch master cylinder rod is the rod that's attached to the clutch pedal.
adjust that with 12mm wrench and 7mm wrench.
you'll see a U bracket. adjust it where the screw rod (master cylinder rod) is shorter inside the U bracket.
usually it will be harder to shift at higher rpm.
Whoever installed your clutch forgot to do some adjustments.
I installed it and never adjusted it but it always worked fine before and seemed to engage pretty good. When I press the clutch in the fork goes all the way to the other side on the bell housing. I will re-check it tomorrow but i think the clutch fork goes all the way (Might even hit) the otherside of the bellhousing meaning the clutch control assembly on that side should be fine. I am thinking it might be something else but we will find out.
Jon Ripple , got any ideas on what else it may be if it isn't the clutch adjustment on the pedal?
Jon Ripple , got any ideas on what else it may be if it isn't the clutch adjustment on the pedal?
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here is some good reading for you on how transmission works.
http://*********************/forums/showthread.php?t=157
http://*********************/forums/showthread.php?t=157
I don't see how he'd have to bleed the clutch line, if it's never been broken.
Trina, are you running the stainless steel line and restrictor? I've always thought it more as a gimmick... but it's worth the inquiry?
Trina, are you running the stainless steel line and restrictor? I've always thought it more as a gimmick... but it's worth the inquiry?
I have the line and removed the restrictor already. It just seems odd that it worked fine before all my tranny work and now it doesnt. I will see if I can see how it is engaging today hopefully. First I will look to make sure the clutch fork is pushing all the way to the bell housing (I am pretty confident it is) and at that point I will lift the car off the ground and see if it is disengaging all the way while in the air. My guess is again that it will fine... this problem ONLY seems to occur at high load/high rpms. That is why it is such a mystery. I think that I might have perhaps warped the clutch.
I was hoping Shepherd or Ripple might be able to help out with ideas. If I cant get it fixed I will just buy one of Adam's clutches from DevoTuning I guess and hope that works.
On that topic also, why does everyone use Exedy for thier clutches when it seems many people have problems with them (And people like Mr. Brown destroy them). I havent read any problems with Adam's clutches yet and I know they are used in alot of 700 plus HP DSM's. And a few 10 second Evo 8's.
I was hoping Shepherd or Ripple might be able to help out with ideas. If I cant get it fixed I will just buy one of Adam's clutches from DevoTuning I guess and hope that works.
On that topic also, why does everyone use Exedy for thier clutches when it seems many people have problems with them (And people like Mr. Brown destroy them). I havent read any problems with Adam's clutches yet and I know they are used in alot of 700 plus HP DSM's. And a few 10 second Evo 8's.
I have any part that seemed like it may help with my damned car and it is still slow
It obviously makes lots of power but now I cant shift it and thats AFTER 2k worth of tranny work and countless hours of pulling and putting the damned thing in and out. It gets very frustrating to see cars with half the parts run faster times... granted my trap is generally higher than any of those it is still frustrating. I will raise my rev limiter and see where the car actually can trap at. Right now I pass the traps while bouncing off the limiter at 118. I think the car will do a 120-121 at only 25-26psi. I also still need to learn alot about tuning the car in general but I am getting better by the day.
I just want to fix this new damn problem so I can at least be proud of some of my times.
It obviously makes lots of power but now I cant shift it and thats AFTER 2k worth of tranny work and countless hours of pulling and putting the damned thing in and out. It gets very frustrating to see cars with half the parts run faster times... granted my trap is generally higher than any of those it is still frustrating. I will raise my rev limiter and see where the car actually can trap at. Right now I pass the traps while bouncing off the limiter at 118. I think the car will do a 120-121 at only 25-26psi. I also still need to learn alot about tuning the car in general but I am getting better by the day. I just want to fix this new damn problem so I can at least be proud of some of my times.


