Don't buy a new clutch. Bleed the slave cylinder then adjust the clutch pedal. I just had to re-adjust the pedal on mine after about 6000 miles on the Exedy Twin. The problem is that the rod that goes into the clutch cylinder (part of the master cylinder) is not pushing the piston far enough, thereby not disengaging the clutch enough at high rpms. Do you have some resistance going into first sometimes?

Loosen the 12mm nut on the clutch pedal and turn the rod clockwise a turn or so. Tighten the nut back up. The idea here is to get full disengagement at all rpms, without the rod extending too far that the clutch slips under load.

There is a spec and procedure in the service manual for clutch pedal adjustment if this doesn't make any sense.

 

You must remember a few *facts*...

Exedy OEM and Exedy Performance are two different set of engineers, both working on project for the same vehicles.

When Exedy manufactures the an OEM clutch, they must make it to *Mitsubishis* set standards - regardless if we think it is a good design or not. If we stray from their set standards - we are liable for everything.

When we make a performance clutch - we build it in the shadow of the OEM as a performance clutch from the get go.

Many of the other clutches out there use the SAME cover / pull-mechinism that the OEM uses...just modified to spec. Look at the covers and notice the similarities.

Bottome line - When we make a performance clutch it is engineered for performance. When we make an OEM clutch it is to set standards from the manufacture.

Hope this clears some things up.

 

OK well I bled the clutch and nothing happened but i did adjust it and now it seems MUCH better. It seems to shift fine anywhere now under anyload. I will not know for SURE until I get some more time to rank on the car a ways past 7k but it seems to do fine now.

I did want to know one thing though... it seems that all that adjustment does it move the pedal up or down. I could see how it would make the clutch not disengage (If too close to the floor) but is it even possible for it to make it so the clutch would never fully engage? I wouldn't think so by looking at the adjustment.. seems to just move the pedal up or down. The reason I ask is because I couldnt tell if it was doing anything or not when I moved it a little bit so I just moved it all the way out. I need to get used to the clutch being that high but it seems to hold fine without any slippage and it fully disengages well so I will leave it here as long as it can't be slipping under load. I am almost positive it can;t but I figure I better ask on here to make sure. Thanks guys for everything and hopefully I can get to the track soon again to see what the car really has in it. Maybe Ill get lucky and get tossed out for no roll bar next time (Wishful thinking probably)

 

Good to hear the adjustments have helped. It is entirely possible to adjust your pedal to a point where your clutch will not fully engage. You're supposed to have a little play at the top of the pedal. I think it's around 1/4" (check the FSM). If there's no play at the top of the pedal, you're most likely preloading the pedal. When that happens, you may experience clutch slippage.

 

Damnit After i thought it was all said and done. ok so how would I check the play at the top of the pedal?? It feels like it holds fine but it is adjusted all the way up which is probably too far then. Whats the FSM or more importantly how exactly would I do it? Thanks!

 

How do I adjust this thing? I am having the same issue and want to adjust it real quick.

Thanks

 

Yes...and another issue with preload is that it can keep the equalizing ports in the Master Cylinder from doing their job properly...

 

Good info in the above posts #6 and #16 on that procedure...