Exedy Twin Clutch Disengagement
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Hey Guys-
I just finished my clutch install of an Exedy Twin HD.
Now the fun begins...
I try and start the car with the clutch in while in first gear and the car lurches forward and stalls, so I adjust my clutch pedal and try again, same thing.
It starts while it is in neutral (Note: With the car off, I can put it into gear without a problem). If I try and put it into gear, the revs go down and it won't go in gear. When I try to put it in 1st/2nd gear the car will actually move forward VERY slowly while I try and put the stick shift into gear. I am definitely having a clutch disengagement problem...but I can't for the life of me figure out why.... I have read through the forums to see what people have done to fix this problem, but I can't seem to figure it out.
Here's what I have tried:
I have bled the clutch line twice (I installed a new upper and lower SS clutch line), the second time I bled it, more air came out.
I have adjusted the clutch pedal from the stock location to the extreme other end and now the lock nut is in the middle of the push rod. The clutch feels the best in this location.
I have jacked the car up and looked through the peep hole in the bottom of the transmission and had a friend push the clutch in while I looked at the clutch fork and throw-out bearing to make sure it was moving. The fingers on the pressure plate also move. The piston on the slave cylinder seems to move about 1/2", is this a good length? How far should everything be moving for proper disengagement?
Here's what I have not tried:
Putting in this new SS clutch release rod (http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=113&page=1) To see if it helped any or not. I have heard mixed things about this rod. Some say its a gimmick other say it worked for them. Chime in if you have had experience with this...or know how/why it works.
Any advice would be a HUGE help
....I miss driving my evo.......
Thanks !
-Bink
I just finished my clutch install of an Exedy Twin HD.
Now the fun begins...
I try and start the car with the clutch in while in first gear and the car lurches forward and stalls, so I adjust my clutch pedal and try again, same thing.
It starts while it is in neutral (Note: With the car off, I can put it into gear without a problem). If I try and put it into gear, the revs go down and it won't go in gear. When I try to put it in 1st/2nd gear the car will actually move forward VERY slowly while I try and put the stick shift into gear. I am definitely having a clutch disengagement problem...but I can't for the life of me figure out why.... I have read through the forums to see what people have done to fix this problem, but I can't seem to figure it out.
Here's what I have tried:
I have bled the clutch line twice (I installed a new upper and lower SS clutch line), the second time I bled it, more air came out.
I have adjusted the clutch pedal from the stock location to the extreme other end and now the lock nut is in the middle of the push rod. The clutch feels the best in this location.
I have jacked the car up and looked through the peep hole in the bottom of the transmission and had a friend push the clutch in while I looked at the clutch fork and throw-out bearing to make sure it was moving. The fingers on the pressure plate also move. The piston on the slave cylinder seems to move about 1/2", is this a good length? How far should everything be moving for proper disengagement?
Here's what I have not tried:
Putting in this new SS clutch release rod (http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=113&page=1) To see if it helped any or not. I have heard mixed things about this rod. Some say its a gimmick other say it worked for them. Chime in if you have had experience with this...or know how/why it works.
Any advice would be a HUGE help
....I miss driving my evo.......
Thanks !
-Bink
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does the clutch fork move as much as it should when you push the pedal down? from when i had a small issue when i installed mine (didnt bleed the line enough) the clutch pedal wouldnt come back up unless i pulled it with my hand.
If your pedal feels fine, or doesnt go all the way down, its possible that maybe something with the clutch wasnt installed correctly, maybe a disk was put in backwards by mistake...?
If your pedal feels fine, or doesnt go all the way down, its possible that maybe something with the clutch wasnt installed correctly, maybe a disk was put in backwards by mistake...?
Thread Starter
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
Do you guys really think my master cylinder is on its way out? It worked just fine before I did the clutch install....
The discs should be in the correct way, I doubled checked everything before I torqued it down. The clutch feels ok, there is some vibration in the pedal itself when its about 1/2 down. And yes, the clutch does come back up...I am going to bleed it more tonight and see if it helps...
Any other ideas that I can try before I buy a new master and/or slave cylinder?
Thanks for the replies so far!
-Bink
does the clutch fork move as much as it should when you push the pedal down? from when i had a small issue when i installed mine (didnt bleed the line enough) the clutch pedal wouldnt come back up unless i pulled it with my hand.
If your pedal feels fine, or doesnt go all the way down, its possible that maybe something with the clutch wasnt installed correctly, maybe a disk was put in backwards by mistake...?
If your pedal feels fine, or doesnt go all the way down, its possible that maybe something with the clutch wasnt installed correctly, maybe a disk was put in backwards by mistake...?
Any other ideas that I can try before I buy a new master and/or slave cylinder?
Thanks for the replies so far!
-Bink
Last edited by binky; Nov 11, 2008 at 07:58 AM.
i havent tried this but its an idea....you said you can't get into first so...have someone in the car push the clutch down and see how far the slave cylinder rod extends and when its all the way out as far as it can, could you use your hand and give the fork the extra push it needs and then see if 1st engages smoothly?
Thread Starter
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i havent tried this but its an idea....you said you can't get into first so...have someone in the car push the clutch down and see how far the slave cylinder rod extends and when its all the way out as far as it can, could you use your hand and give the fork the extra push it needs and then see if 1st engages smoothly?
-Bink
if you can move the clutch fork further then the slave cylinder isn't doing its job which in turn means the master cylinder isn't....bc the master cylinder pushes the fluid through the clutch line to the slave and the slave pushes out the rod....if you push the clutch pedal down and try to put it in 1st gear you say it starts to lurk forward? so the clutch isn't disengaging all the way so have someone push the clutch fork all the way and then you should be able to put it into first without the car lurking forward
if that works then you have diagnosed your problem i'd say
if that works then you have diagnosed your problem i'd say
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
if you can move the clutch fork further then the slave cylinder isn't doing its job which in turn means the master cylinder isn't....bc the master cylinder pushes the fluid through the clutch line to the slave and the slave pushes out the rod....if you push the clutch pedal down and try to put it in 1st gear you say it starts to lurk forward? so the clutch isn't disengaging all the way so have someone push the clutch fork all the way and then you should be able to put it into first without the car lurking forward
if that works then you have diagnosed your problem i'd say
if that works then you have diagnosed your problem i'd say
I'll give that a shot tonight.If anyone else has any other ideas on what I should be trying....let me know!
-Bink



