Yesterday, on my race gas map, I started getting the high RPM popping and slight loss of power. I've seen the problem in other cars before, and knew it was an ignition problem. I've changed the plugs regularly in this car, so I know what they're supposed to look like.

Well, #1 came out all wet! There's a thin oil film along the threads and the electrode and porcelain were dark. I thought maybe the plug was bad since its been a little bit since my last change, so I put a new set in there. Started the car, drove around and let it come up to operating temp, them reefed on it a little and came home. I pulled the new plug out after 5-6 miles of that drive and its wet too all over the inside.

I was wondering if I'm getting blowby from a bad ring land, but the car isn't using a drop of oil, nor is it smoking at all.

On the way from getting race gas yesterday, my line for my gauge on the throttle body side popped off. I wonder if I leaned out or overboosted and killed a ring? I did have a lot of 110 octane, and only boosted up for about 400rpm in fifth before I noticed it and backed out, but I'm curious.

Anyway, I was selling my wheels to get a new turbo, but maybe now I'm up for a rebuild.

I don't have a compression tester, but that's the first thing on my list. I still find it odd that I'm not buring oil or smoking, though. Any thoughts?

 

blown headgasket?

 

The head gasket is a possibility, but seems unlikely to me. There's no water in my oil. I looked down in all the cylinders with a flashlight and noticed that the #1 piston is coated in a film of black oil. None of the other pistons look like that at all.

Worst case scenario, how much is a new 4G63 shortblock?

 

well it sounds simple either you got a bad coil, the plugs are blowing out cause they cant handle the tune, or you happen to get 2 new bad plugs..

 

Oil and water rarely mix as a result of a headgasket on a 4G63. Usually you end up with combustion gasses in the coolant.

Do a compression test to give us some more clues.

 

Thanks Josh, I'm on it...

 

I wouldn't go crazy buying a block just yet. Do the compression test first and then a leakdown if you are not happy withthe results. Please post your findings. We will try to help.

 

New OEM shortblock from the dealership will cost you around $2,800ish.

 

why would you even mention buying a block. if its a head gasket all you have to do is change the head gasket. Not the block! The only way he would have to change the block is if he threw a rod through it or had some serious det. inside one of the cyl.

He hasn't even done a comp test to see if he has a blown ring. don't get the guy all nervous or nothing

 

DID you read what I wrote?
He said he was looking into buying a new engine. I told him not to rush to judgement.
IN OTHER WORDS. DONT BUY ONE YET UNTIL HE CHECK THE STATUS OF THE COMPRESSION ETC.

 

150-165-165-165

 

Just curious, what are your plugs gapped too.
Also, when you do a compression check, do it dry, then add a little oil to each cylinder. If compression goes up, it's rings, if it stays same in valve seals.

 

My plug looked the same on cyl #4... The threads had oil on them. Lucky for me it was due to my cam install and a little oil was splashed down there during the removal of the valve cover. I cleaned it up and it has not come back. All my plugs looked the same when they came out so I hope I am all good.

 

I swapped my exhaust cam recently, but I left the plugs in.

 

I hate to tell you this, but I speak from experience, you have either a re-build or a new short block in your future. It is more then likely not a head gasket but a ring land or scorched piston. Possibly even a cracked piston, but the line blowing off means that cylinder pressure is getting into the crankcase and that it what gave. Start the car and remove the oil fill cap. If it changes RMP, or especially if it is blowing out, then you definatly will be pulling the engine.