Finally getting decent power out of the gt35r
Finally getting decent power out of the gt35r
Well I put some 110 octane (Not great gas from a pump) and turned the boost up. Worked out alot of the cars little problems and now am finally getting decent results.
I have not made it to a dyno but i use a software analyser that takes wieght, Coeffiecient Drag, and speed over time to guestimate for me. Ill attach the results.
Now the car shifts fine after solving that problem and now I need to learn how to do it right :P First gear is VERY hard to time correctly. I shift when I see 7k and by the time the clutch is in and I move the shifter I hit the rev limiter at 8k. Launching the car on the street is now more a cool show then a good launch... all four tires light up to the point of smoke. We will see how it does launching on a track this weekend.
Right now I am only running it at 27 psi, mainly because I have completely stock bottom end and the other reason is my stupid boost guage tops out at 25psi. It goes farther but there are no numbers so I kinda gotta guess and hope it is somewhat right.
For some reason the car is most knock prone at around 6-6.5k so I need to run pretty low timing and pretty rich at that point but everywhere else is fine. I just hope that at the track I can get a decent launch and shift fast enough. I am sure the way the car sits right now it is easily capable of a somewhat low 11. I am just hoping to finally get into the 11's anywhere
Here is the graph....
I have not made it to a dyno but i use a software analyser that takes wieght, Coeffiecient Drag, and speed over time to guestimate for me. Ill attach the results.
Now the car shifts fine after solving that problem and now I need to learn how to do it right :P First gear is VERY hard to time correctly. I shift when I see 7k and by the time the clutch is in and I move the shifter I hit the rev limiter at 8k. Launching the car on the street is now more a cool show then a good launch... all four tires light up to the point of smoke. We will see how it does launching on a track this weekend.
Right now I am only running it at 27 psi, mainly because I have completely stock bottom end and the other reason is my stupid boost guage tops out at 25psi. It goes farther but there are no numbers so I kinda gotta guess and hope it is somewhat right.
For some reason the car is most knock prone at around 6-6.5k so I need to run pretty low timing and pretty rich at that point but everywhere else is fine. I just hope that at the track I can get a decent launch and shift fast enough. I am sure the way the car sits right now it is easily capable of a somewhat low 11. I am just hoping to finally get into the 11's anywhere

Here is the graph....
Originally Posted by antonio010
Looks decent, are you running standalone?
Originally Posted by fre
Yes she is. You shouldn't have to tune that much out of the car like that to cause that big of a dip in your curve. That is very weird. Just drive the car with the extra power enough and you will get use to it to the point where the shifts will be fairly easy. I really don't even look at my tach in 1st to 2nd anymore. I go by sound and feel.
I have stock ignition and BR8ES plugs... I foul them ALOT... about everytime I fill around 6-10 gallons of race gas they will foul shortly thereafter.
I am not running on a 'kit'. The manifold is from Ron Shearer, the turbo is from precision turbo, the 02 housing is also Ron Shearer's, the hoses are all from AMS in Chicago(Oil/Coolant), The lower IC pipe is Shearer's as well as the intake pipe. The frontmount is Buschurs along with the upper IC pipe. It has an HKS SSQ Bov, Magnus Sheetmetal intake, 780cc injectos, Walbro fuel pump, Aeromotive pressure regulator, no-name turboback exhaust, and all the other goodies....
The 'ecu' modification used to be an AFC and is now a Utec. The Utec seems likes a great choice for many people and suited my needs. I didnt feel like trying to learn exactly how a car runs, starts warm, starts cold, AC compensation, etc... The Utec lets you leave the stock ECU to control most things but allows full control of timing and fuel and directly drives the coils and injectors so it is kinda for me the best of both worlds.
As for the dip in the power... it really isnt THAT much of tuning that lowers it down like that... it is richer and a little less timing there but not by too much... the car just doesnt seem to hold the power/TQ there but like I said... the 'dyno' run isnt exactly a true dyno and it very well could be a hill that I climb over roughly at the same point every run. I run the same spot everytime and it seems almost perfectly flat but who knows
Third gear is so damned short its hard to really tell whats going on. It takes me three pulls just to see the boost at certain RPMs and watch the knock sensor.
I did have some worries about the ignition not taking the HP but so far it seems to be doing ok. I am going to switch to probably the MSD Dis-2 very shortly. One, so I know it will handle the power to the end (I plan on running much more boost after I build the block and rev well past 8k.. close to 10 probably), and the other reason is because it has its own 2-step which I can decide to use it for either my shift-no-lift or the launch control. The Utec currently only has one for both which makes my launches real high RPM which results in ALOT of tire spin, or the shifting bogs a little bit because the clutch switch stays active until the VERY top of clutch travel.
If I dont have to work on Monday I will be bring it to an AWD dyno to see the true power output... I would assume this software version should be extremely accurate but who really knows. I couldnt see the car making any less power honestly... Im not trying to claim my car makes tons of HP but I have driven 460hp DSM's that are a few hundred pounds lighter and they dont pull nearly as hard as this car does now. I love it
I cant wait till I rebuild the bottom and top and go for 37psi. 27 is insane... 37 must be plain stupid fast.
I am not running on a 'kit'. The manifold is from Ron Shearer, the turbo is from precision turbo, the 02 housing is also Ron Shearer's, the hoses are all from AMS in Chicago(Oil/Coolant), The lower IC pipe is Shearer's as well as the intake pipe. The frontmount is Buschurs along with the upper IC pipe. It has an HKS SSQ Bov, Magnus Sheetmetal intake, 780cc injectos, Walbro fuel pump, Aeromotive pressure regulator, no-name turboback exhaust, and all the other goodies....
The 'ecu' modification used to be an AFC and is now a Utec. The Utec seems likes a great choice for many people and suited my needs. I didnt feel like trying to learn exactly how a car runs, starts warm, starts cold, AC compensation, etc... The Utec lets you leave the stock ECU to control most things but allows full control of timing and fuel and directly drives the coils and injectors so it is kinda for me the best of both worlds.
As for the dip in the power... it really isnt THAT much of tuning that lowers it down like that... it is richer and a little less timing there but not by too much... the car just doesnt seem to hold the power/TQ there but like I said... the 'dyno' run isnt exactly a true dyno and it very well could be a hill that I climb over roughly at the same point every run. I run the same spot everytime and it seems almost perfectly flat but who knows
Third gear is so damned short its hard to really tell whats going on. It takes me three pulls just to see the boost at certain RPMs and watch the knock sensor. I did have some worries about the ignition not taking the HP but so far it seems to be doing ok. I am going to switch to probably the MSD Dis-2 very shortly. One, so I know it will handle the power to the end (I plan on running much more boost after I build the block and rev well past 8k.. close to 10 probably), and the other reason is because it has its own 2-step which I can decide to use it for either my shift-no-lift or the launch control. The Utec currently only has one for both which makes my launches real high RPM which results in ALOT of tire spin, or the shifting bogs a little bit because the clutch switch stays active until the VERY top of clutch travel.
If I dont have to work on Monday I will be bring it to an AWD dyno to see the true power output... I would assume this software version should be extremely accurate but who really knows. I couldnt see the car making any less power honestly... Im not trying to claim my car makes tons of HP but I have driven 460hp DSM's that are a few hundred pounds lighter and they dont pull nearly as hard as this car does now. I love it
I cant wait till I rebuild the bottom and top and go for 37psi. 27 is insane... 37 must be plain stupid fast.
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Oh my bad I thought you were AEM. Cold start and stuff like that really isn't that bad. Of course I also have a fellow dsmer that is good with that stuff so that helps. I won't go AEM simply because I don't want a roll cage. I could run under 11.5 right now and with 30 psi I would be low 11s easy without AEM. You think 27 psi is fast then try 28 and a half. I went from like 26 to 28 and it gave me 3 mph just like that.
Are you shifting into 5th or keeping at 4th?
Also, you dont 'need' the roll cage.. you can usually sneak in a bunch of passes before they notice even if they do. I guess it also depends on where you go though.
Also, you dont 'need' the roll cage.. you can usually sneak in a bunch of passes before they notice even if they do. I guess it also depends on where you go though.
I have similar problem like you at around 6.5 RPM my car is pulling timing too. I have RNRGT35r with equal-length manifold. I changed back to the stock plugs, replaced the turbo wastegate gaskets and did a few fulls on freeway in 3rd gear and having notice the timing drop anymore. But since I was running 91 oct at the time, my boost setting only 22 psi so I'm not sure the problem solve yet. I'll find out this weekend at the drag.
I'll try your way if the problem persist. Thanks.
I'll try your way if the problem persist. Thanks.
I would assume the reason your timing is being pulled is knock. 22psi with 91 octane seems pretty tough. I run 22psi on 93 and cant get any more with timing that I like.
My timing is not being pulled at 6.5 either. I have complete control over my timing so it doesnt change unless I want it to. The car doesnt knock either... the stock ecu doesnt pull timing there either. I do it to reduce knock but it is still at 14-15 degrees at around 11.5:1 but for some reason it doesnt seem to make the power there... maybe it is before the cams start to pull? I dont really know nor will I until it gets on a dyno. If it goes away it was nothing... it if still loses power it is something else which I am assuming right now to the cams but have no idea.
My timing is not being pulled at 6.5 either. I have complete control over my timing so it doesnt change unless I want it to. The car doesnt knock either... the stock ecu doesnt pull timing there either. I do it to reduce knock but it is still at 14-15 degrees at around 11.5:1 but for some reason it doesnt seem to make the power there... maybe it is before the cams start to pull? I dont really know nor will I until it gets on a dyno. If it goes away it was nothing... it if still loses power it is something else which I am assuming right now to the cams but have no idea.
I was running 109 oct. when I detected the timing is being pulled so I can't go beyond 24-25 psi. After some check up, I saw some gaskets look like were burning (black spots around them) so I changed them, I'm also changed the plugs back to stock (irridium vs. copper). The old plugs were gapped in hope to solve the problem.
I don't have an opportunity to run 109 gas yet but it was pulling timing with 91 oct at around 22 psi as well. I'll find out at the track this Sat. By the way, I'm only have SAFC-II for air-fuel adjustment.
I don't have an opportunity to run 109 gas yet but it was pulling timing with 91 oct at around 22 psi as well. I'll find out at the track this Sat. By the way, I'm only have SAFC-II for air-fuel adjustment.
Originally Posted by TrinaBabe
Are you shifting into 5th or keeping at 4th?
Also, you dont 'need' the roll cage.. you can usually sneak in a bunch of passes before they notice even if they do. I guess it also depends on where you go though.
Also, you dont 'need' the roll cage.. you can usually sneak in a bunch of passes before they notice even if they do. I guess it also depends on where you go though.
I keep it in 4th and bounce off the rev limiter a few times (8k rev limiter). I could probably hit a 125 trap if I shifted, but then I would get like an 11.8 or 11.9.
Well I have mine set at 8k so we will see but I assume I will hit the same trap on the nuts as you. Sunday is the big day for me.
As for G20, I dont understand your posts honestly. If you are trying to run 22psi on 91 octane with an AFC chances are it will knock badly. What gaskets are you talking about???? What do you mean by the old plugs were gapped? Dont you gap any plug you put in your car? And I guess to sum it up... Dont buy into ads claiming thier sparkplugs are super duper special.... they spark
Buy NGK Plugs... for your app probably BR7ES or BPR7ES would be the best. The BR (No P) should knock a little less but will foul earlier and the BPR plugs would be the opposite. With just an AFC I would only run around 19psi (Thats what I did and it worked out ok for me).
Anyways, good luck with everyhting and if ya need any advice or help Ill help ya out... sorry I am in a bad mood tonight. Maybe a bad batch of beer I dunno
As for G20, I dont understand your posts honestly. If you are trying to run 22psi on 91 octane with an AFC chances are it will knock badly. What gaskets are you talking about???? What do you mean by the old plugs were gapped? Dont you gap any plug you put in your car? And I guess to sum it up... Dont buy into ads claiming thier sparkplugs are super duper special.... they spark
Buy NGK Plugs... for your app probably BR7ES or BPR7ES would be the best. The BR (No P) should knock a little less but will foul earlier and the BPR plugs would be the opposite. With just an AFC I would only run around 19psi (Thats what I did and it worked out ok for me). Anyways, good luck with everyhting and if ya need any advice or help Ill help ya out... sorry I am in a bad mood tonight. Maybe a bad batch of beer I dunno


