Random misfires, help!
*IMPORTANT UPDATE*
Did about 300 miles worth of driving today. Had 5 misfires. ALL of them were at 3250-4000rpm at under 40% throttle. I looked at my map and noticed that the 3000-4000 range from 0-30% throttle has more timing and fuel added than any other group of cells. How should I attack this? Should I pull back fuel or timing or both for that range??
Did about 300 miles worth of driving today. Had 5 misfires. ALL of them were at 3250-4000rpm at under 40% throttle. I looked at my map and noticed that the 3000-4000 range from 0-30% throttle has more timing and fuel added than any other group of cells. How should I attack this? Should I pull back fuel or timing or both for that range??
Originally Posted by Zarathustra
I no longer have the boost pill, so if I disconnect the XEDE I won't have any boost control. Regardless I've had an XEDE for a year now and have not had a single CEL until this misfiring crap started.
Big deal. Throw in some 100 oct, disconnect the Xede, and see if you get the CEL. I ran the regular base maps for the Xede w/ the stock Ecu, too, and had no CEL.
The problems started up when I had the ECU flashed and tried running the Xede on top of it......................................just like your situation.
It's funny that you're begging for help, and when someone comes along and suggests you test something out, you somehow *KNOW* that that can't be the cause.
I know you spent at least $700 on that piggy back. I did too. But, guess what? It was that piggy back that was the cause of MY problems. Despite the fact that it was tuned by GOD himself, (aka. Shiv).
Originally Posted by Zarathustra
*IMPORTANT UPDATE*
Did about 300 miles worth of driving today. Had 5 misfires. ALL of them were at 3250-4000rpm at under 40% throttle. I looked at my map and noticed that the 3000-4000 range from 0-30% throttle has more timing and fuel added than any other group of cells. How should I attack this? Should I pull back fuel or timing or both for that range??
Did about 300 miles worth of driving today. Had 5 misfires. ALL of them were at 3250-4000rpm at under 40% throttle. I looked at my map and noticed that the 3000-4000 range from 0-30% throttle has more timing and fuel added than any other group of cells. How should I attack this? Should I pull back fuel or timing or both for that range??
So what are you saying? You originally post that the TT flash controls the fueling and Xede the timing.
Now you're reading the Xede map and claiming that it's controlling BOTH fueling and timing?
You don't think this might be a problem when the ECU is modified to control the fuel, and then the Xede is trying to do the same thing?
First double check w/ TT to see what exactly they changed to the ECU. If they scaled the fuel for the injectors correctly, zero out the fuel tables of the Xede.
I think it rather interesting that noone that represents ANY flash has an official statement on this topic, eh?
Actually, you see nothing from any respected tuner on this topic.
I'm also curious whether any non-'03s have the problem ...
Actually, you see nothing from any respected tuner on this topic.
I'm also curious whether any non-'03s have the problem ...
Ive got the same problem! My car didn't get the PO300 code at all until I did the my denso 720cc injectors and tuning. I just try to stay out of boost and throttle when I am just cruising around town, and stay in it all the time when I am racing, it helps, but its not a cure. I have the UTEC, but I think the injectors are the problem for both of us. Try to get a retune to see if that helps, and in the meantime go get an OBD-II scanner from kragen, they are well worth the money.
I have the same p0300 code that occurs on the freeway, 4th gear b/t 4000-4500rpm @ about 70 mph and low throttle. It only occurs during these parameters, but doesn't occur evertime i'm at these parameters, if that makes any sense. Meaning if it is going to happen it happens at these parameters, but it doesn't occur everytime i am driving at these parameters. I have noticed another trend though. It happens on the freeway b/w tucson (~3000ft) and Phoenix (sea level) and seems to always occur within 20 miles of either city, maybe suggesting it is something going on with the ecu trying to adjust to elevation changes although they are small. When it occurs, if i try to accelerate through it, it continues. If i let off and then stomp on the gas, it clears. Also, my a/f meter goes supper lean for some reason reading as high as 18.5, until i let off the gas. This has been happening since before and after Al's mail in flash. Not sure what the problem is, but I would sure like to find out.
Well last night and today I've been playing with my map. Looks like if leave MAF alone and retard timing from 3000-4000rpm at under the 30 load value, the misfires go away. Wasn't able to get the car to misfire last night or today after I started to mess around in XMap. Keep yer fingers crossed 
Drove around today for about 70 miles. Bulk of it was in the 3000-4000rpm range. No issues. Near the end of the day I did get a small misfire at 2800rpm under light load in 3rd though. I have the timing pulled down in the 2500-3000rpm range now too. Tomorrow I'm going to see if I can get some advise from Dustin@Vishnu.
Talked to Dustin@Vishnu today and he said I'm on the right track 
Lessons learned from Dustin: ***In general you should scale your ECU slightly larger than your injectors are, so you can then pull back fuel and timing in the XEDE. You get some odd results like misfires if you add a little fuel and timing in the XEDE like my tune has (makes sense since all the XEDE maps I've seen always remove fuel and timing). Also when you add fuel the XEDE passively removes timing and visa versa.***
Looks like it might be best for me to start from a clean slate (ie zeroed out maps) and work from there. At the very least a zeroed out map would probably be the best for SMART considering the lessons from above. BTW 30 orders of SMART are going out today. I ordered on July 2nd so I'm in the next batch.
Lessons learned from Dustin: ***In general you should scale your ECU slightly larger than your injectors are, so you can then pull back fuel and timing in the XEDE. You get some odd results like misfires if you add a little fuel and timing in the XEDE like my tune has (makes sense since all the XEDE maps I've seen always remove fuel and timing). Also when you add fuel the XEDE passively removes timing and visa versa.***
Looks like it might be best for me to start from a clean slate (ie zeroed out maps) and work from there. At the very least a zeroed out map would probably be the best for SMART considering the lessons from above. BTW 30 orders of SMART are going out today. I ordered on July 2nd so I'm in the next batch.
