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best intake for your money!!!

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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 12:29 PM
  #31  
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From: Hollywood,florida
does anyone have any dyno sheets to post , so i can ssee what type of intake is best?
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 12:56 PM
  #32  
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does anybody know the diameter of the upper I/C piping on the injen intake?
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 02:13 PM
  #33  
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From: VA/KSA
Originally Posted by NapervilleEVO
then would an aps cai be the best of both worlds?
+1 on the APS, i would think it would be the best, it would also have a ram air effect.
Can anyone comment on the APS Cold air intake?
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 02:49 PM
  #34  
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From: Milwaukee ish
For people running a K&N drop in, did you leave it oiled or did you dry it out. I heard that if you dont dry t out it can muk up your MAF
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 03:20 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Silk
For people running a K&N drop in, did you leave it oiled or did you dry it out. I heard that if you dont dry t out it can muk up your MAF
I left it oiled, and I have had no residue build-up problems. I check it frequently to make sure, and I haven't yet had to clean it out.
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 06:49 PM
  #36  
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K&N Drop-in or HKS RS =]
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #37  
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From: NOR*CAL BAY AREA
Hks Rs!!!
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 07:43 PM
  #38  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
All these open element intakes actually LOSE power when you close the hood. Especially when the radiator fans come on and the underhood air is heated up to 200+ deg F. Who cares what they make (or don't make) with the hood open, on a dyno. Most of us drive our cars with the hood closed. There is a reason why the factory airbox completely sealed and cold air ducted from in front of the radiator.

Shiv
Every other tuner seems to disagree with you. Take the principle of turbochargers for an example. You are forcing the engine to receive more air. The turbo or supercharger heats this intake air up extremely. But more air is better than colder air. For every 10 degree's cooler, you gain 1-2% hp. Double your manifold pressure and it's a gain of a hell of lot more than 1-2%. Even if you ended up raising your intake air temp by 100 degrees due to the compressor, it still wouldn't be as good as a marginal increase in air volume. Intercoolers are a different story and plenty of cars run without any intercooler. So you can have your stock airbox that takes in a little bit of cool air, let's say 50 degrees. I'll take my high flowing HKS RS intake that takes in, let's say, 70 degree air. I know you guys know your stuff and I'm not trying to sound like I know more than you professionals, but this subject has just been proven wrong many times. Airflow sensors might be another story and another debate.
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 08:28 PM
  #39  
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From: Boston
I have an HKS RS and I swear it made a difference even if it was just being able to hear the turbo suck and blow, and finally learn to drive in boost.

That being said, the vortices (SP?) created within aftermarket filters and airbox/induction kits make the ECU's job of accurately maintaining A/Fs that much harder. This can be tuned for but arguably not as finely as the more stable MAFS readings from the factory airbox.

Bottom line for me:

I like the sound, it can be tuned to work well and flows more than the stck box. I kept the RS intake but changed to an Apexi filter because the HKS foam one filled my turbo full of dirt. Be warned!

Bang for the buck is prolly a drop in . Listen to the pro's.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 12:12 AM
  #40  
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From: Danville/Blackhawk, California
Originally Posted by Thegame
So you can have your stock airbox that takes in a little bit of cool air, let's say 50 degrees. I'll take my high flowing HKS RS intake that takes in, let's say, 70 degree air.
Your hot air induction system is only 20 degrees warmer than a fully sealed, cold air ducted airbox? Don't you think that is a bit optimistic when underhood temps can easily approach 200 degrees (or more when the radiator fans kick on)? I've measured turbo inlet temps of over 200 degrees on cars with aftermarket intakes.

Yes, intercooler does remove 80-90% of the heat generated through compression. But post IC temps will always be colder if turbo inlet temps are colder. And when there is no measureable vacuum in the turbo inlet tube, I think its safe to say that there is no power to be gained through "opening it up." So what you have in the end is a hotter intake charge, with a MAF that doesn't read airflow as well as it should and no measurable reduction in intake restriction.

With bigger turbos that move a lot more air, inlet restrictions may come into play. But with stock turbos that can only flow so much air, talking oneself into upgrading the intake is like trying to fix a problem that isn't there.

Just my 2c,
shiv
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 01:25 PM
  #41  
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so a replacement after market drop in filter is the best? which would you all recommend? HKS or K&N. i know there are a few others out there. let me know guys. because i am about ready to purchase something.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 01:26 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by donmeca2020
so a replacement after market drop in filter is the best? which would you all recommend? HKS or K&N. i know there are a few others out there. let me know guys. because i am about ready to purchase something.
We use and sell Green Filter
http://www.greenfilterusa.com/

Last edited by Precision Dyno; Jul 30, 2005 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 01:27 PM
  #43  
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From: Flemington, NJ
buschur
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 01:56 PM
  #44  
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I respect what you said and you might be right, shiv. I just think way too many people are running intakes with great results. Maybe you guys should design a better flowing box that keeps intake temps down and flows just as good as an aftermarket open element. I have yet to see dyno numbers on the ARC and HKS kansai ones. How do you feel about these two products, shiv? They probably still affect MAF readings however.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 02:02 PM
  #45  
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From: socal
ARC ..well not best bang for the buck but i feel as if its the best bang...but ill dyno it soon to see if its even worth the money.
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