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OE WR actuator preload... heavy spring actuator install.

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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 07:47 AM
  #16  
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Very interesting, has FP decided if they are going to upgrade the first batch of WR's? I know there was some talk about doing that, but not sure if they decided against it. I wonder if the high pressure one would help me, it can peak to 31 but it tapers to 21 at redline.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Ivan_C
Very interesting, has FP decided if they are going to upgrade the first batch of WR's? I know there was some talk about doing that, but not sure if they decided against it. I wonder if the high pressure one would help me, it can peak to 31 but it tapers to 21 at redline.
Ivan, you are already fast enough. No HP actuator for you!

I'm surprised that you only have 21 at redline even with the stock actuator. Maybe you should try adding some more preload to it?
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by evo_dadi
^^ i turned down my boost just incase when we were trying out the new actuator to see if its gonna spike or creep but so far we havent seen such things happen *crosses fingers*
Yes, I just went a little too tight by a half turn. That half makes a large difference with a spring this strong. You can actually cause the WG flapper to only open up 5-7 degrees by going only a full turn or so too tight.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by EvoTech
Zeus,

Do yourself a favor and get the Perrin EBCS. IF want to to continue to run a bleed type setup, this is your best bet for minimizing taper. Check out my review in the UTEC section.
Funny, I'm already looking at running this in interupt...
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Ivan_C
Very interesting, has FP decided if they are going to upgrade the first batch of WR's? I know there was some talk about doing that, but not sure if they decided against it. I wonder if the high pressure one would help me, it can peak to 31 but it tapers to 21 at redline.
I think FP has not said anything yet, but I'll expect the high pressure wastegate to endup being an "upgrade".

You should be holding more boost with the OE actuator. I held a rock solid 23psi around town on pump gas on it... never trying to hold more. I'd try about one full turn tighter on the OE gate.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 09:06 AM
  #21  
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I hold 22.5 all the way to redline on the wastgate that came with the WR, but the solonoid on the EVC is at 84%. I figure I can hit about 25-26psi with this gate but I'm sure it will drop a little at that pressure.

Too bad the upgraded WG is 165, I thought that some people were sent them free of charge, kinda sucks for the rest of us.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Zeus
I think FP has not said anything yet, but I'll expect the high pressure wastegate to endup being an "upgrade".

You should be holding more boost with the OE actuator. I held a rock solid 23psi around town on pump gas on it... never trying to hold more. I'd try about one full turn tighter on the OE gate.
I can try that, but mine was very over tight from FP. I adjusted it and it took at least 12 1/2 turns to get it to zero load, the rod's hole was about 1/8" to a 1/4" from the pin when it was disconnected. I adjusted it to what I found on a search, around a 1/4 holes worth. Though even when it was super tight it wouldn't hold anymore then 21.

But I'll adjust it another full turn and see what that gets me.

I don't think it flows enough to overcome the 280's.

Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Ivan, you are already fast enough. No HP actuator for you!
No way Rich, I need more and I know the turbo can do it.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:24 AM
  #23  
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actuator

I had also readjusted mine today,and couldn't be happier.The boost is holding like to good now and it only tapers off a little.Overall this upgrade is a must for this turbo.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:35 AM
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It looks like the new actuator is on FP's site for sale now right HERE. There are videos to show the adjustment method as well.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:40 AM
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The forge WG is a little better unit which is adjustible with different springs and ss polished. For the stealth concious, the FP actuator should work well. Take a look at Rob's video on setting the actuator rod which is important.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dsm95hybrid
The forge WG is a little better unit which is adjustible with different springs and ss polished. For the stealth concious, the FP actuator should work well. Take a look at Rob's video on setting the actuator rod which is important.
When you used the two, did you come to the conclusion of which was better by performance, or adjustability? I've not used the Forge, so I can't say anything about that one...
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 11:00 AM
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From a flexibility standpoint alone the forge unit has an adjustible nipple direction much like the GReddy type-s BOV. There are about 4 springs with different preloads that can be swapped out in a matter of minutes. Forge has a "lifetime guarantee" on all their parts and my personal experience with the different combos has me settled on a setup with a minimum boost of 20.5psi with no MBC/EBC (perfect for pumpgas depending on a/f and octane). The holding capacity goes up from there. My AEM MAP sensor has registered as high as 35.1psi on the 2005 standard turbo 10.5cm2 with a 24-26psi average in drag when cranked. Granted the 35.1 spike was probably a flake due to wheelhop or a bog, but usually the sensor is rock solid accurate ($109 medical grade sensor).
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:24 AM
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Zeus,

Any chance of a quick write up on how to adjust the OE actuator?
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:27 AM
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Should work the same, however I think there is a nut also. You may have to shorten the arm by dremeling off a few threads. Even on the aftermarket ones it is not a bad idea to trim them shorter.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dsm95hybrid
Should work the same, however I think there is a nut also. You may have to shorten the arm by dremeling off a few threads. Even on the aftermarket ones it is not a bad idea to trim them shorter.
When I installed my HP actuator from FP, the arm was almost too short. Zero preload was on the last thread pretty much. I did have to shim it to get it around my Buschur lower IC pipe (different shape/size can than the OE actuator), but I don't think that made too much difference in the arm adjustment. I also had to trim the lower heat shield and shim it to clear the arm, but I think that's because I shimmed the actuator. In other words, this isn't a straight bolt-in with a Buschur lower IC pipe from the Deluxe FMIC.
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