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OE WR actuator preload... heavy spring actuator install.

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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 12:25 PM
  #31  
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Zeus, Great write up and I would bet this solves the issue for those that were not holding boost with the stock actuator. I know I had the same problem.

Now go get you an alky kit and run the high boost all the time.
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 08:42 PM
  #32  
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Now I need to get me one too!
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 07:10 AM
  #33  
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Well I decided to order one, it'll be here today. While I had the car down for repair, did some small upgrades. Just this and the Forge MBC. If I can get another few psi on the top end, I'll be happy.

Ivan
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 10:08 PM
  #34  
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so i finally got the car tuned today with 91oct since its my daily and using higher oct would just end up hurting more my wallet as it is same mods but with the s-afc set on 0.

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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 10:17 PM
  #35  
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ok, I'm confused... need more info...
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 10:19 PM
  #36  
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doh sorry bout that mods were 264cams/tbe/fuel pump/660cc injectors/mbc/s-afc set at 0/WR w/ new actuator.tuned using ecutek on 91oct.
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 10:42 PM
  #37  
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Um, how come it stop making power at 6k. I thought the WR can hold boost up top.

Tom
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 10:56 PM
  #38  
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with some higher octane it could be done but i dont want to push my luck with 91
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 11:00 PM
  #39  
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I know nothing about 91 tuning, but I'm used to 23psi on 93... (read no taper). Actually I need to back off a good turn on the actuator on my car, as at 23.5psi I'm having creep issues, not taper ones...
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 04:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Gruppe-S
Um, how come it stop making power at 6k. I thought the WR can hold boost up top.

Tom
Obviously there's more to power than boost. Look at the AFR on the Mustang Dyno. It suddenly goes rich above 6500 rpm. Who knows what the timing is set at up top. That's appears to be a very conservative tune.

At pump gas level boost I see no taper with the White Rabbit based on MAP sensor datalogs.
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 04:43 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
When I installed my HP actuator from FP, the arm was almost too short. Zero preload was on the last thread pretty much. I did have to shim it to get it around my Buschur lower IC pipe (different shape/size can than the OE actuator), but I don't think that made too much difference in the arm adjustment. I also had to trim the lower heat shield and shim it to clear the arm, but I think that's because I shimmed the actuator. In other words, this isn't a straight bolt-in with a Buschur lower IC pipe from the Deluxe FMIC.

I couldn't even get mine on zero preload, the rod isn't long enough. But it's on there. Did some test runs and seems to hold at least 24-25 to redline. I'll see how it acts on the track tonight.
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 07:09 AM
  #42  
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You should be able to just get it on there without pulling hard with about one thread... then give it 3 1/2 turns and you should be set. The best way to test is to run a line from the turbo straight to the wastegate and go make a run. If you set it right, you should see 17psi. Much more than that, and you will have boost creep issues instead of taper issues.
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 07:27 AM
  #43  
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Ok, that's about what I have it at (where I was comfortable it had enough threads to hold on). Haven't notice any creep, at least not during the 10 minutes of testing. It was about 17 psi or so.
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #44  
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We made new ends that are .250" longer to help the "one thread" issue during zero preload.

Anybody that got an actuator and wants an end that is .250" longer to put on, give us a call and we'll mail you one. All current orders for the actuator have the new longer rod end that is .250" longer in the threads.
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