just installed black with 25psi actuator, off boost controller, just for the test run, it hit 2.5bar of boost.
losen the actuator/sotften it, still hitting 2 bar of boost.

now i have losen the actuator rod that my flap on the o2 housing is partially open under normal condition, still hitting 1.9 and 2 bar of boost.

question is...

do i have to losen the actuator rod more, is it ok that wastegate flap is partially open under normal condition?
anybody noticed over boost with 25psi actuator??

 

wow thats a lot of boost, be careful you dont blow your motor!!

 

A couple of thoughts and questions: When you state that your BC is turned off, do you mean that the knob is turned all the way out(off), or that you disconnected the BC from the boost/vacuum hoses? Are you running an O2 dump or a traditional O2 housing? Are you running an EBC, or an MBC? There is no flap on the O2 housing, so I imagine that you are actually refering to the flapper valve located inside the turbine housing, right?

When you state that the "flap is open under normal condition", how did you ascertain that the flapper valve is open? Can you see that it is open, or does it sound like it is open? What exactly do you mean by "open under normal condtion"? What is "normal"? Do you mean that with the motor shut off the valve is open? Or, that at low boost levels, such as at idle, the valve is open? If so, how can you tell?

Oh and post up a complete mods list and who installed your FP Black turbo anyway?

 

Hi Chong,

I have a 25 PSI Actuator from FP as well and I got my car tuned for 32psi on stock turbo however I am running about 29-30psi as we speak.

Before my WGA was installed we pressure tested and adjusted it with a precision calibrated air gauge. My 25 PSI seems to work well, I boost right were I wanted.

Do you want to meet up tonite and have a second set of eyes look at it?

Carlos

 

On my Red when i installed it w/ the 25psi actuator I was overboosting nasty. 2.5 bar is about 36 psi..hope you only did this once or twice and had fuel to compensate.

It took some playing with and setting the correct preload is key. The 25psi actuator needs very little preload. I believe i'm only 1 full turn past 0 zero preload.

@ fromWRXtoEVO: He has an FP Black vs your stock IX turbo(unless you installed the green) Setting preload on the 2 turbos are completely different animals,

 

it is HKS EVC6, completely off, meaning...all the vacuum hose connected the way they supposed to and unit it turned off, was trying to break in new turbo with wastegate pressure only.

it is traditional o2 housing without ext o2 dump.

i am referring to O2 housing on the hotside(flapper).

when you disconnect actuator rod(romoving clips, disconnecting the rod...)from flapper, you can freely open/close flapper on the hotside.

what i mean by under normal condition is...at first, rod was tightly connected to the flapper, so i thought it's not opening at 25psi pressure and cause to build to high boost, so i try to losen it by turning the bolt on the rod.
i turned the rod bolt out so much out that flapper is not completely closed and feels like it's it is slighltly open. i turned extra 1-2 turns today and now i am only hitting 1.8bar of boost but again, i feel that it is not completely closed. because you can tell when it is completely closed in hotside but it's not completely closed. who know how much it is open inside the o2housing.

mods: 2.3JAM motor and other supproting mods.

this is like my....4 or 5th turbo(evo9, green, red, hks turbo and now black, and stock 8turbo while i was waiting on the turbos to come in) and all installed in my garage.

 

Chong,

The HKS VI is a total bia-s-h to control/adjust. I had a HKS VI a long time ago(when they first came out) and I absolutely hated it, it is difficult and complex to work.

I am going to be around and free tomorrow if you still want to have me look at it. By the way, this is just to prove you that I had one HKS VI EBC a long time ago (I don't pull histories from my sleeve), this is from back in 2006:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...5-shipped.html

Carlos

 

is ur hotside ported?
try doing a boost leak test and see if there is any type of leaks.
also, try running the wga directly without using an mbc (u should see 25psi on ur gauge)
gl!

 

This is good info

To the OP: Yeah have Carlos look at it for you. It is good to have a second pair of eyes.

O.K. you can't really have the actuator rod adjusted correctly if the flapper valve is open. It is just not possible and you are doing something wrong. First, loosen the back up nut. Next remove the cotter pin. Pry the turnbuckle off the flapper valve pivot arm with as flathead screwdriver. With a finger on your left hand pull the pivot arm over to the left. This will hold the flapper valve down onto it seat while you slide the actuator rod into place.

Loosen the turnbuckle, which is the eyelet on the threaded end of the actuator rod by rotating it counterclockwise until the hole in the turnbuckle lines up with the peg on the flapper valve's pivot arm. At this point the hole in the turnbuckle will slide freely on and off of the peg without any need to exert pulling force on the actuator rod. Slide the turnbuckle hole onto the flapper valves pivot arm peg.

At this point you should be at base pressure for the 25# actuator. But, the flapper valve should be closed because the spring inside the actuator is pulling the flapper valve down onto its seat. There is a how-to from FP(maybe on their website?) about how to set preload. Maybe you should study this how-to. If someone would be so kind as to post a link...that would be great.

 

That is a great idea. Close loop from WGA to nipple on compressor side.


Carlos

 

Yeah, do this then adjust the boost by rotating the turnbuckle on the end of the actuator rod. Carlos you'll just have to check out visually what he means by his flapper being open, That sounds weird.

 

Link on how to set preload...actually on FP's website.

ZERO PRELOAD:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...preloadvid.mpg

STANDARD PRELOAD(WILL CAUSE OVERBOOST ON RED/BLACK W/ 25PSI GATE): http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...td-setting.mpg

HIGH SETTING(THIS WILL GIVE YOU 40PSI+EASY WITHOUT EVEN TOUCHING THE MBC): http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...gh-setting.mpg

Also, this wastegate requires super strength or leverage...i used a hammer to help me get it on.

 

Any idea what the preload for the 18psi wastegate should be set to??

Thanks for the vids...i was unable to find these without your links. Where were they hidding?

 

Anyone having trouble getting the wastegate actuator installed is doing it the hard way.

A bicycle pump attached to the actuator nipple wlll allow you precise control of the extension of the rod. It will also allow you, if you like, (with the O2 housing off) to see exactly what pressure and preload allows the wastegate flapper to start to crack and where it's fully open.

With a manual Hallman ceramic boost controller, I have nearly rock steady boost where I set it with the Red. I expect the Black will not be much different.

 

I know for a fact that mine was adjusted perfectly the way I wanted. We used a precise air gauge and we adjusted the pressure slowly. We made a minor adjustment to the rod and we saw the whole mechanismo of the flapper moving, at the time we had the manifold shield removed .

Carlos