fp black overboosting-25psi actuator
So, i just checked out my 18# WGA on my new FP Black and the preload is on the extreme side, gauging by those vids. I'm now worried that maybe FP shipped this Black with a 25# WGA, instead of the 18#. Which, with this preload, is bound to overboost(if in fact this is the 25# WGA).
Is there a way to visually tell what WGA is installed(i.e. markings or visual differences)? The only way i know of, would be to check the actuator with a pressure source and a gauge.
Is there a way to visually tell what WGA is installed(i.e. markings or visual differences)? The only way i know of, would be to check the actuator with a pressure source and a gauge.
not sure on the visual differences, but u can always check by connecting a compressor to the wga nipple and regulate it to 18# and see if it moves. ofcourse u need those parts to run this test. gl!
Yeah, i'm gonna do this, just to make sure. The WGA is preloaded like a Mother Fugger, so i have to be sure this is the 18# WGA. If it's the 25#, i'll need to fix the preload, as this will surely overboost (i'm on stock bottom end).
Just do what detroit pistins suggests above: Disconnect the MBC. Plug up the open ends of vacuum hoses. Run a piece of hose directly from the compressor housing discharge tube's nipple to the WGA. Loosen the WG's actuator rod until the the hole on the end just slides on and off of the peg on the flapper valve's pivot arm. Do a run in your car if indeed you have the 18# actuator then you should be at about 11# base pressure. If so, then shorten it by 4-5 full rotations of the turnbuckle on the end of the threaded actuator arm, This should get you up around 20 PSI spring pressure.
This is good info
To the OP: Yeah have Carlos look at it for you. It is good to have a second pair of eyes.
O.K. you can't really have the actuator rod adjusted correctly if the flapper valve is open. It is just not possible and you are doing something wrong. First, loosen the back up nut. Next remove the cotter pin. Pry the turnbuckle off the flapper valve pivot arm with as flathead screwdriver. With a finger on your left hand pull the pivot arm over to the left. This will hold the flapper valve down onto it seat while you slide the actuator rod into place.
Loosen the turnbuckle, which is the eyelet on the threaded end of the actuator rod by rotating it counterclockwise until the hole in the turnbuckle lines up with the peg on the flapper valve's pivot arm. At this point the hole in the turnbuckle will slide freely on and off of the peg without any need to exert pulling force on the actuator rod. Slide the turnbuckle hole onto the flapper valves pivot arm peg.
At this point you should be at base pressure for the 25# actuator. But, the flapper valve should be closed because the spring inside the actuator is pulling the flapper valve down onto its seat. There is a how-to from FP(maybe on their website?) about how to set preload. Maybe you should study this how-to. If someone would be so kind as to post a link...that would be great.
To the OP: Yeah have Carlos look at it for you. It is good to have a second pair of eyes.
O.K. you can't really have the actuator rod adjusted correctly if the flapper valve is open. It is just not possible and you are doing something wrong. First, loosen the back up nut. Next remove the cotter pin. Pry the turnbuckle off the flapper valve pivot arm with as flathead screwdriver. With a finger on your left hand pull the pivot arm over to the left. This will hold the flapper valve down onto it seat while you slide the actuator rod into place.
Loosen the turnbuckle, which is the eyelet on the threaded end of the actuator rod by rotating it counterclockwise until the hole in the turnbuckle lines up with the peg on the flapper valve's pivot arm. At this point the hole in the turnbuckle will slide freely on and off of the peg without any need to exert pulling force on the actuator rod. Slide the turnbuckle hole onto the flapper valves pivot arm peg.
At this point you should be at base pressure for the 25# actuator. But, the flapper valve should be closed because the spring inside the actuator is pulling the flapper valve down onto its seat. There is a how-to from FP(maybe on their website?) about how to set preload. Maybe you should study this how-to. If someone would be so kind as to post a link...that would be great.
i slide the turnbuckle onto the flapper valve pivot arm and i was still hitting 2.1bar. so, i continued to turn the turnbuckle counterclockwise. then when i try to slide the turnbuckle back to flapper valve arm, i have to manually open flapper valve just to slide in. it's not alot but it's not tightly shut.
now, i am going to give a try to connect wastegate nipple directly to turbo output boost nipple. completely bypass or disconnect boost solenoid system..
think i found the problem!!!
so, ran wastegate directly from turbo outlet, only boosting 1.3bar.
and thinking for a few min, i had EVC setting to external wastegate when i had hks turbo kit and has not changed back to internal wastegate!!!
so, i am gonna go back and change the EVC setting, connect all the vacuum hose and see what happens.
so, ran wastegate directly from turbo outlet, only boosting 1.3bar.
and thinking for a few min, i had EVC setting to external wastegate when i had hks turbo kit and has not changed back to internal wastegate!!!
so, i am gonna go back and change the EVC setting, connect all the vacuum hose and see what happens.
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