I have just recently tried a trick that I had done on my WRX for faster spool and higher boost @ redline.

1. go to Home Depot, Lowes and in hardware you will find a selection of springs.
2. Buy some of these and use some common sence as far as size, weight selected
3. Place the spring along the WG arm hooked at the top off the turbo
4. Then hook the other end of the spring into the little hole on the actuator

Now you have a higher PSI WG

I gained 4psi (MBC cranked down or OFF) for WG boost and simular up top at redline. 3-4psi fluctuation probley cause the spring is stretching/retuning.
In other words, when I set the MBC to 20psi at redline without the spring and left it at that setting, after adding the spring I was holding 23-24psi.

I used a 5lb 8in sping cut in half for this test. I will be doing several more tests of different springs till I find a perfect "fit" for my application.
right now my WG boost is 15 psi.

cost me $3.00

 

good deal macGyver!

 

nice, no pics of it so it can guide me thru it

 

Not bad, my friend Trevor runs vacuum lines from the brake master cylinder to the nipples of the waste gate actuators. He is running 2 Evo III turbos on his 96 TT Stealth which yielded him a 10.77@138mph so far in Tucson.. That mod allowed him nearly 5psi boost increase.

As long as you can tune your car to the extreme you could also shut them close for good.

Carlos

 

i have no real input on this thread but need to post to obtain 50 posts so i can sell extra parts that are just laying around.....everything has to go so if this post makes no sense.....which it wont. Sorry, merry christmas!

 

nice...

 

what i did on mine is took the WG off & turned the turnbuckle all the way down AFTER removing the locking nut that holds it in the stock position. reattached it & adjusted the flash. boost falls ALOT slower than b4. i currently spike 27psi with it falling to 23 by redline. this WILL work better with the Forge or Garage HRS unit but y not enjoy the benefit now for free???

P.S. a neat lil trick when reattaching the WG after my mod is to use the head of a broken heat shield bolt & wedge it in between the bottom & top of the bell section of the WG with the bolt head nut vertical. i use long needlenose for insertion & removal. this allows u to be able to reach the peg on the turbo & reattach it accordingly. once bolted in pull the nut & the mechanical portion is finito...

 

Another "trick" is to smooth the downstream edge of the wastegate port from the inside of the turbine housing. It makes it slightly harder for gasses to make the right-angle turn out the wastegate and so the wastegate isn't "blown open" at high RPM. (so to speak, anyway)

Sorta the opposite of what you do when you have issues with boost creep, where you smooth the upstream side.

 

Yeah, there is a furrow or trough which cuts across the floor of the scroll and is there, I guess, to redirect part of the exhaust flow into the WG bypass port. Now, if you notice that the farside of the trough is higher or more "builtup" in comparison to the leading edge of the trough. Well, that builtup, or raised back edge of the trough can usually do with a lot of grinding down, almost to the same level as the leading edge. This should improve flow through the main scroll area.

The WG bypass port on the other hand can be improved by smoothing the transitional radius that leads from the housng inlet into the bypass port itself, as well as increasing the diameter of the bypass port.

 

i'd never do this.. but can you crush the top of the actuator like people do their BOVs? just curious.

 

nice mod

 

nice!

 

I've tried this. Had to take it off cause you can't use the heat shield. I've since removed the shield so may try it again.