PM me as to what they are torqued to now...

 

Thanks for the info.

Anyone know what kind of anti-freeze to use? I was planning to pick-up some prestone 50/50 but wasn't sure if this would be good.

 

Gokou,

Timzcat is correct. I worked on an evo with the valve cover gasket installed incorrectly and was leaking oil out the rear. Took the valve cover off, reseated the gasket, and used a little mega grey which fixed the leak.

 

I thought the point of cycle torquing (aka loosening/tightening) is to smooth out the burrs on the threads and the surface of the washer to get a more accurate torque reading -- not to stretch the studs. So, even if the engine has been heat cycled, I think that cycle torquing would make sense if it hasn't been done before. I can't imagine that it would hurt.

 

No it is to stretch the studs.
Using arp lube you are not going to create any real friction anyway to be smoothing anything out.

 

Whatever you do, don't use Prestone in our cars. Pick up either Honda or Mitsubishi OEM fluid.
You might get lucky with the orange Prestone if you do a whole system flush but I've heard it would also turn into a gummy substance after a while and with other Prestones I heard they can kill your water pump in matter of weeks and turn your aluminum radiator into swiss cheese.
I didn't believe it much so I used google. Too many people can't lie.
Better safe then sorry

 

+1

I use honda coolant only in my car.

 

Uh oh. Time to run to Mitsu.

 

I checked the ARP website and found this:

The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP® lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing.

LINK

 

Crap! NOw you guys tell me. I just flush and put prestone 50/50 anit freeze in my car. Stealership was not out my way so didn't end up going there. THe label on the prestone says for all cars.

Do I need to change it out again???

 

propellerhead said and gave the same info. I open the valve cover and just made sure the head bolts were at 85 lbs. I did not loosen and re-tighten it.

What I found was the valve cover gasket was torn in multiple places and this may explain why I had oil leaking. I didn't have a new gasket so end up using the old torn gasket with some grey rtv gasket maker. Car is currently not running the same and runs like there's a boost leak. I need to go and buy one tomorrow. The dealer I call quoted me $45 or something. What's odd is that the spark plug hole gasket was torn as well.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

 

Help guys. I need to know if I should change out the prestone 50/50 anti-coollant. First time I've ever heard of it causing damage. Anyone one else using it? Please give me some security

 

Don't believe every thing you read. The Prestone 50/50 is fine, I don't know where people get this stuff from.

 

Well wait I probably do. Car's like the newer Hondas use this goofy coolant and if you put in the green stuff it will destroy the water pump seals to the point where coolant just runs out.
Our car uses good old fashion green coolant with Ethylene Glycol.

And the other thing is that all antifreeze produced and sold in the USA is produced in only a handful of plants. So the coolant you buy from Mitsu just may be the same stuff in a Prestone or Proline bottle.

 

Thanks for removing the monkey off my back

Now if I can find a valve cover gasket and the spark plug hole gasket I'll be set. Keeping my fingers cross with the HS