Last time I check there wasn't as much oil there like I would normally see. I didn't clean the area well enough to say the leak competely stop but I know for sure it helped. I will check again tomorrow.

I suggest that you do the same.

 

Same issues here. Any resolution other than replacing the HG or just retorque the studs to 85.
Hey VTEC8TR- We used the ARP moly lube right. If so, its torqued to what we said it should be per ARP. DO you think wI should crank it down to 85ft lbs anyway?

 

So where would I find the best step-by-step head stud install method?

 

Call ARP. They'll tell you 70ft lbs with ARP lube or 85ft lbs with 30 wt motor oil.

 

I dont think that torqing them more is the solution as if you have a leak now that means you have a blown headgasket from the outside (not from the inside part)

You need a new headgasket and most likely stock headstuds...


I just DONT KNOW WHY THE **** I INSTALLED MINE


IDIOT

 

Torque them to 85 and be dome with it. By design the stock headgasket will effectively seal back up for that minor oil leak anyway. There are only about 2 dozen oil leaking HG threads on here in which they torqued the 80 or 85 and the problem went away. The gaskets use a raised sealing area around all the oil and coolant passages that is flexible. It can handle being retorqued without ill effect.
If you'd rather spend your time and money replacing the gasket then the more power to you but simply retorguing it works.

 

thanks

 

I agree with you on some parts. If the car is driven only on the streets or QM drag then yes but if the car is drive on the track 24/7 like I do with it then I am in for warping the head...

Are you assuring me that 85 wont warp my head?.

 

A properly torqued head will not warp. 99% of all head warping comes from overheating which in turn affects the fasteners clamping load on the head. The head is flat and if all the fasteners are equally torgued you will never just warp a head.
I can take any brand new car and remove the head and it will no longer be truely flat. Removing a head from an engine alone will cause warpage in the range of 1/2 to 1 thousanth. But that being said, the one by one method will generally not affect the head because you are only unloading one bolt at a time and the head is cold. The surrounding fasteners still keeping the pressure on the mass of the head will prevent any surface warping. The problem is when you start unloading many bolts at once like on removal will the head actuall start to warp.

 

/\ Not much else need be said...

 

Someone PM'd me about procedure so I will post it here.

This procedure is for new studs that have never been used.
1. Remove old bolt based on proper sequence.
2. verify there is no fluid in the hole.
3. Thoroughly lube the nut end of the stud with ARP moly lube.
4. Install stud. (note: I do not use any lube on the stud)
5. Ensure the stud seats fully in the block.
6. Torque stud to 30 in-lbs. This is only to ensure the stud is seated. The studs should not be torqued down with any real amount of force. That is not thier intended design.
6. Thoroughly lube both sides of the washer and install over stud.
7. Lube the bottom face of the nut and install on stud.
8. Torque nut to 45 ft. lbs. and loosen it.
9. Torque nut to 60 ft. lbs. and loosen it.
10. If you are **** then check to make sure the stud is still properly seated in block. Do not apply any force but ensure it is threaded all the way in still.
11. Torque nut to 70 ft. lbs. and loosen it.
12. Torque nut to 75 ft. lbs.

Move on to next stud and repeat procedure.

Drive the vehicle for approximately 6 heat cycles. (Get it up to operating temperature 6 times). This can be over the course of 3 or 4 days.
Now retorque the head in sequence to 85 ft. lbs.

For used studs that have not been abused but already installed once, you need to follow 1-7 above and then torque the head in sequence to 65 ft. lbs. then in sequence to 75 ft. lbs. and then final torque to 85 ft. lbs.

If you have studs installed and they were torque to 75 ft. lbs. or more and you somehow manage to "lift the head" and cause a head gasket to leak between cylinders or pressure to the cooling system or mix fluids then they must be replaced.
This condition at that torque level is a clear indication that the studs are stretched passed thier service life and they will not hold a proper torque.

 

You mentioned we could retorque and now your saying we need new studs? Please clarify. Thank you

SO oil seepage would qualify for retorqing to 85-90 since thats not mixing of fluids or anything you have mentioned above.

 

I truly believe that the cause of the leak is the head studs...

I took my car to mitsu today and they agreed that its a head gasket leak and they might cover it under warranty as I know them.

There is no reason to change the head studs on any EVO except if you have a bigger turbo with much more boost.

I made a mistake changing mine and never again. Mine were installed by dyno4mance and I am sure they installed the right (hope). as many pros told me before I did mine, they said don't do the one by one install (never) I did it like an idiot.

 

I am stumped ..

I checked them today and they are turn to be on 85 ftb.

I have no idea what’s going on as the guy who installed them said 65.

should I loosen them up and retorq them?

Mhyar

 

It will probably take some force to bust them loose. They end up settling in in most cases if they were put in right and it will take over that amount of force to bust them loose so you can back them out. If you are at 85 you could loosen then go up to 85 or 90 but that would be it. It probably wouldn't make any difference but that doesnt mean it isn't worth a try.

If you are going to replace your head gasket due to your oil leak I would try a better coated gasket like the HKS or Power enterprises. The stock gasket is fine but the upgraded once provide the raised seal over the entire gasket. I think this could help in the aid of this small oil seapage. Just my opinion, good luck either way.