i just installed ACT on my 03. i also installed the clutch line and replaced all my fluids.

pedal is much firmer but not to bad. engagement is really smooth and rattle noise when ac is on is almost complelety gone.

no high rpm shifting lock out issues yet...completely satisfied.

winston

 

mine felt same as you described the first few months i had the clutch in. After that, it got worse and worse real quick..just my experience. I could just have a bad tranny...

 

on a seperate note (since you mentioned it)

You probably shouldnt expect your car to run better with higher octane UNLESS you have a more aggressive timing map that will compensate

higher octane = safer combustion which actually means cooler & slower ignition. This allows you to run more boost and a bit more aggressive timing.

Sorry to hear about your clutch probs... my stocker is not good for racing anymore (luckily drivable), hopefully plan to go twin disc over the winter.

good luck!

 

Well have had my Act clutch installed for 1000 miles, and I already have the lockout in 2nd and 4th. I really hope someone figures this out

 

Were you responding to me? I can't tell, since you didn't quote anything. I certainly should expect my car to run better on 116 leaded than on 104 unleaded, and of course I tune for whatever gas I have in there. I have an S-AFC, which allows me to tune more aggressively with higher octane while also raising the boost significantly. This is how I got my 12.2 at 111 on a 104/93 mix with just a cat-back. I expect even more power with leaded 116 on a full TBE now that I can shift however temporary it may be.

 

are you worried about damage to your o2 sensors with the leaded race gas?

 

Not when it's just 3 gallons once every few months...

 

What happened when you adjusted it? Where do you live? If you are in So Cal, we did figure it out, you just get it adjusted.

Mike W

 

FWIW, I've had issues with my STOCK clutch from day 1 with my car, including occasional grinds on the 1-2 and 3-4 shift and lock-out at high RPM on fast shifts. I adjusted my clutch pedal a couple of weeks ago and the problems are gone!

 

whats funny about this thread is that with over 11,000 views it has killed the market for ACT's in the evo community. My ACT sales have dropped significantly and anyone who does buy them asks me about this thread. Its Crazy!!! I have an ACT in my car that I killed to the point where it slips in 3rd, 4th and 5th and i have the lockout issue at high rpms also, but i think the problem can be solved by adjusting the clutch. i have 2 customers with act's that have no issue with lockout. i think when people put them in they are fine at first so they dont adjust the rod and then as the disc wears out it needs adjustment.

 

So you are a vendor for ACT, have had the clutch in your personal car, experienced the lockout issue, and you have not even attempted to adjust the thing? Maybe you should spend the 10 minutes it takes to adjust the clutch and post about how the solution worked instead of crying about your sales numbers?

Do you not know how to adjust your clutch?

 

Which brings up another good point. I have seen 2 stock clutches replaced this week where the unit was slipping in higher gears. I see these owners rush out to replace their clutch and when it is removed there is a considerable amount of disc left. There are too many owners that think a slipping clutch needs to be replaced because it is worn out. CLUTCHES SHOULD BE ADJUSTED 2-3 TIMES A YEAR for optimized engagement.

Anyone expecting great engagement from a high 2900lb pressure plate NEEDS to upgrade to a SS braided clutch line, restrictor removal is recommended, swap fluids to syncromesh or Amsoils new GL4 fluid and adjust their pedal to a semi high position. IT IS DESIGNED TO WORK IN THIS OPERATING RANGE. If you think the stock rubber line was flexing with the stock clutch, imagine a HD ACT and the amount of pressure it puts on this line now.

I recently adjusted a friend's engagement point and he went from grinding gears and 1.9X+ 60' to the grinding going away and pulled a 1.69 60' on his first launch after the adjustment. At first he complained that all it did was move the pedal disengagement point higher while he was in the driveway. Of course until he used it at the track and realized the difference.

11 sec Evo MR
124 hard drag launches, stock clutch still holding fine.

 

question: how would adjusting the clutch pedal on a slipping stock clutch stop it from slipping?

 

If there was preload on the clutch master cylinder rod, the clutch will never fully disengage. This would cause slipping.

 

No, he was wrong on this point.
And the clutch shouldn't need to be adjusted very often, since it is really self-adjusting for wear.

The reason why the EVO clutches slip and still have material left is that there are stops built on the pressure plate which prevent it from clamping once the disc reaches a certain thickness.