As the disc wears the engagement point raises. As it raises, less and less pressure from the pressure plate is able to be applied as it is too far away from the flywheel and hence it slips because it is not able to aplly all the clamping force. Opposite from the fix for the ACT and newly installed clutches, you need to adjust the pedal downward instead of upward. This will insure the disc is fully engaged (all the way out) and against the flywheel with full pressure plate clamping force.

 

I keep hearing the same stuff and yet it has been answered or explained. Maybe you guys didn't see the link.

See: http://www.advancedclutch.com/EVO_Shifting.pdf

 

OK, everyone. At your first sign of slippage hurry up and BUY an A.C.T.!

With normal daily driving the pedal may not need as much fine tuning, but with my 124 launches it has taken 3 adjustments this year to keep the engagement point constant and put back to the stock engagement height.

There are stops put in, however I have asked each person replacing a stocker so far, if they had ever adjusted it and not one has said "yes" or "yes and it still slips". Mine started slipping until adjusted and it is holding nicely now with the clutch rod adjustment.

 

no i know how to adjust it, i just dont care about doing it. I have a twin carbon coming in so i'm not worried about it. my clutch slips so bad as it is that i'm just cruising around low throttle for the most part. not really neededing to bang gears anymore

 

my clutch is def shot, the engagement point is High but the thing cant take launches for ****, Basically i could dump the clutch at 7k (IF I WANTED TO, NOT SAYING I HAVE) and the car would barely move. if your crusiing in 3rd, 4th or 5th and you floor my car, it starts to accelerate but as i hit full boost the rpm's shoot up and the car goes nowhere and smells. I know what a slipping clutch is. if your clutch is slipping its time for a new one. I dont care ifit only slips in 5th, if thats the case then its just going to slip more and more when you launch it.

 

I assure you that you will have to adjust the twin plate clutch as well.

 

If adjustment made any difference at all with regards to slippage, then the rod was preloading the master cylinder or your foot was lazy off the pedal. There is no other reason for adjustment to matter at all since all you should be doing is changing the amount of freeplay. Any amount of freeplay on the adjustment rod at all is going to allow the hydraulics to self-adjust. No amount of freeplay is going to make a clutch increase it's torque capacity beyond that point.

Now if it changes your timing on when you mash the throttle compared to letting off the clutch, that's another thing.

 

thats fine, my clutch grabs high. if anything i might want it to be lower.. it always grabbed a little high but def had full engagement, it wasnt so bad that it wasnt grabbing all the way. but I dont understand, if it grabs high then its disengaging completely. so shifting shouldnt be affected???

the time period between me getting the lockout issue and the clutch beginning to slip was so short that i had no interest in even trying to fix it. i just ordered something i shouldnt ever have an issue with

 

For more followup from Warrtalon on this see his later thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=161749

 

I have an ACT which I've had for over a year and so far so good. Then the other night, I'm drag racing, and I get the dreaded 7K rpm lockout! I'm like damnit! So, I went and revisited this thread. I just couldn't get my head around why the clutch might do this when it was worn, so I figured the clutch somehow wasn't releasing correctly. I spent about half a tank of gas feeling out my clutch, how it's driving, what happens, etc. Every single time, above 7K rpm, it would lock me out. absolutely no doubt about it. Then I got to thinking...last time I was at the track, on my last run, I red lighted because my car started rolling. I figured I was just on a hump or something, but in reality it was probably my clutch grabbing! Then I started thinking, OK, what if I stomp on the clutch a bunch of times to build up pressure then try to go do some speed shifting right away. I stomped on the clutch about 30 times coasting, put it in 2nd, did a big time pull to my new 7,800 rpm rev limit, and bam great shift. I repeated this a few times until I determined this was indeed repeatable and the cause of the lockout. So, my guess is one or more of the following is now true:
- My rubber clutch hose is finally giving up the ghost
- The clutch master cylinder needs a rebuild
- The last time the clutch was bled, my friend, who is a mechanic and former mitsubishi tech, insisted on using the power bleeder thing even though I was against it. He finally convinced me to let him use it to speed things along. Well, I never trust those things and I think it intruduced air into the system. This was a week prior to noticing my first lockouts at the strip.

This might not work for everyone with this problem, but it just goes to show not everyone has the SAME problem. Rememeber when people are switching from ACT to another clutch, they are bleeding the system again too. This might contribute to the solution.

Anyway, I'm going to have my clutch bled the manual way with no fancy vaccuum thing and see if that solves it. Otherwise, it's SS lines and maybe a master cylinder rebuild for me! I'm glad I found a repeatable fix though at least in my case.

Hope that helps somebody.

 

FWIW, my single disk Exedy 4-puck has not locked me out once no matter where I set the clutch pedal. I've set it to engage on the floor and at the very top, and I have none of the problems I had with the ACT. I now keep it in the middle and powershift every gear like it's going out of style. It's quite a relief when shifting becomes second nature and is not on your mind at all. It really helps when racing...

 

i just had a new TRE trans put in and "another" act during this install. the car shifted fine till my second track day. ive done EVERYTHING possible with fluids, bleeding, ajustment, yada yada. i took the car to the track yesterday and out of 8 runs i ground 3 and 4 bad everytime i shifted above 7k. why at exactly 7k? dont know but if i shifted just at 7k it went in both 3 & 4 with miminal grind. i did break this clutch in for 1000 miles first. i believe the the organic street disk can't handle power over 400 whp after a slip and go launch. im hoping ive havent done so much damage to my brand new trans that new clutch wont fix this issue. going to go to a exedy twin. yes imo, its the ACT.

 

My Act has performed amazingly and even will shift above 8000 if I ask it. Maybe it is time to flush all your driveline fluids and possibly adjust your clutch. I am going on year 2 with my ACT and it is perfect, atleast below 8000 RPMs.

 

Then what are your 1/4-mile times with this 8000rpm shifting? Many of us have changed drivetrain fluids and adjusted the pedal numerous times, but that wasn't the problem.

 

Shifting at 8000 is NOT optimal for my power curve BUT it still does it. I only have a 2003 but I have hit 12.0 at 114MPH on pump gas and a flash with boltons so I am happy . I love my ACT clutch, works as advertised and responds perfectly to adjustments. I mean you beat the poop out of your Evo maybe you finally broke something, maybe your Synchros are going, maybe your clutch fluid is leaking, maybe it has a bubble or two in it. Normally I shift where you shift at 7300 but have hit my 1-2's at 800 and sometimes further on up there, no issues what so ever. Maybe try adjusting your clucth when it is hot, who knows it could be MANY things.