why do I keep hitting fuel cut?
you spent as much money on race fuel, as it would have cost you to get your freakin ECU flashed to remove the overboost fuel cut.
if you guys would just listen when we tell you what your problem is, you wouldn't even have to think for yourselves and be wrong.
if you guys would just listen when we tell you what your problem is, you wouldn't even have to think for yourselves and be wrong.
one more thing i re-read the thread over again , "cant get more than 21 psi and hit fuel cut" .
1st thing that you can do that won't cost you any $$ is a BOOST LEAK TEST . If your leaking the ecu is seeing alot of air flow but not all of that air is making its way the the motor and the bost gauge .that would cause low boost and ealry fuel cut .
1st thing that you can do that won't cost you any $$ is a BOOST LEAK TEST . If your leaking the ecu is seeing alot of air flow but not all of that air is making its way the the motor and the bost gauge .that would cause low boost and ealry fuel cut .
Does anyone know how many LBS/MIN the maf reads before its cuts delivery?
Temps have dropped to below freezing here in Wisconsin. I have been getting more air but also higher boost readings because of the temp drops. I have my XEDE set to 95% wastegate duty cycle until 6k then I open it 99%. It seems like 3500-5800 is where boost really creeps with cooler temps.
Temps have dropped to below freezing here in Wisconsin. I have been getting more air but also higher boost readings because of the temp drops. I have my XEDE set to 95% wastegate duty cycle until 6k then I open it 99%. It seems like 3500-5800 is where boost really creeps with cooler temps.
Thats what I did to correct the problem ..... I used to leave the boost control solinoid at 100% above 3k but now I have adjusted it to compensate for more air flow.
There are only two things to do:
1. Lower boost.
2. Get a reflash to eliminate maf cut.
There are only two things to do:
1. Lower boost.
2. Get a reflash to eliminate maf cut.
no, you need to lower the boost anyway. If you were tuned, you were tuned for a certain boost level with pump fuel. If you were tuned in the heat of the summer, you will have to adjust your boost control device in the winter to keep the same boost level.
Now, if you ever wanna run high boost with race fuel you need to have the flash done to fix the fuel cut, so you can do that.
-Jeff-
Now, if you ever wanna run high boost with race fuel you need to have the flash done to fix the fuel cut, so you can do that.
-Jeff-
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From: In da streetz
Originally Posted by gsujeff55
you spent as much money on race fuel, as it would have cost you to get your freakin ECU flashed to remove the overboost fuel cut.
if you guys would just listen when we tell you what your problem is, you wouldn't even have to think for yourselves and be wrong.
if you guys would just listen when we tell you what your problem is, you wouldn't even have to think for yourselves and be wrong.
I have my reasons for not having a flash right now. The main one is that I don't like Al. I know there are other places to go and I am doing my homework on that... the other reason I don't want a flash at the moment is because I want to finish all my basic mods first. that way I don't have to go back and get re-flashed. At the moment I only have a TBE & MBC.
I have done about 1/2 a dozen boost leak tests on the car already. The last one was about 1 month ago but I plan on doing another one this weekend.
The whole purpose of this post was to see why I was hitting fuel cut and if there is a way to fix it. Obviously this started happening just recently for a reason. I would much rather diagnose the problem then just pay some "tooner" to for a reflash but thats just me.
Thanks, to the people that gave their input.
Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
.
The whole purpose of this post was to see why I was hitting fuel cut and if there is a way to fix it. Obviously this started happening just recently for a reason. I would much rather diagnose the problem then just pay some "tooner" to for a reflash but thats just me.
Thanks, to the people that gave their input.
The whole purpose of this post was to see why I was hitting fuel cut and if there is a way to fix it. Obviously this started happening just recently for a reason. I would much rather diagnose the problem then just pay some "tooner" to for a reflash but thats just me.
Thanks, to the people that gave their input.

U might B hitting Fuel Cut because your turbo actuator diaphram is busted. Had this problem before.
Simple Test, put a piece of vacum hose on actuator nipple then suck up air through vacum hose like a straw...with your mouth, once all the air is sucked out, the vacum hose will either stick to your tongue or not.
If it does not stick to your tongue that means diaphram is damaged (u need a new actuator) If it sticks to your tongue, everything is ok.
Respec.
Simple Test, put a piece of vacum hose on actuator nipple then suck up air through vacum hose like a straw...with your mouth, once all the air is sucked out, the vacum hose will either stick to your tongue or not.
If it does not stick to your tongue that means diaphram is damaged (u need a new actuator) If it sticks to your tongue, everything is ok.
Respec.
I am seeing the same problem with overboost codes showing up when I am in 3rd or 4th gear at around 3300 rpms. This just started as the weather here in Pittsburgh started to get colder (average 40 degrees). I have the Xede and 3" TBE (dp also). I read the threads about the flash, but one of the reasons I went with the Xede was to not have to get any flashes...
Isn't there a way to program the Xede for the MAF fuel cut issue....rather than getting a flash?
Isn't there a way to program the Xede for the MAF fuel cut issue....rather than getting a flash?
There is no way around the Overboost code, even if you boost 19 Psi you will still throw the code, b/c of the colder weather mixed with higher timing in the low end of the gear the turbo spools much faster(ramps too fast for the ECU) which triggers the CEL. When i read this thread i knew right away that this guy is hitting Fuel cut. From a low rpm roll in a higher gear your car is under a lot more LOAD then lets say 2nd gear which leads to higher and more CONSISTENT boost. When the fuel and boost is changed without removing fuel cut your almost certainly going to have problems in any cold weather changes.
Last edited by Nez136; Oct 28, 2005 at 05:05 AM.
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