How long did your stock clutch last? How do you drive the car, how do you shift, where do you set your clutch pedal to engage?

Personally I'd lean towards an Exedy Twin Metallic (regular if you like light pedal action, heavy duty if you don't mind a slightly heavier than stock pedal feel). It's expensive, but it should last a long time (even with occasional hard use). Quite frankly the reports posted on this website of some ppl having lockout issues at higher rpms with the ACT, would make me hesitate to buy one...

l8r)

 

I would go with ACT. I have had the clutch in the car for 20,000 miles and still holds like the day I put it in. I have never had a problem with being locked out of any gear once it was properly adjusted. For the money you could buy two ACT's for one twin disk clutch. Just make sure you have someone install the clutch thats knows what the hell they are doing. Also I have read that quite a few Twin disk clutchs take dirt naps after very little abuse. Do some checking on the forums.

 

The car is on the second clutch. The car was used when i bought it, a new clutch was part of the deal from the dealer. This was my first stick car that was actually mine, Ive driven stick before, but never all the time, so i beat it up a little bit to start. Ive got about 15,000 miles on it, its by no means in horrible shape, but it does slip here and there. I have never adjusted the clutch pedal, although i think i need to, due to some engagment issues. Its very notchy after it warms up, even with Synchromesh. Wish i knew how to adjust it right.

Sean

 

I've the ACT for 20K miles and have had no problems. The pedal pressure is definitely stiffer than stock. I will get another ACT when this one dies.

 

Hey Steve, how much would your girlfriend weigh if she still had her arm and legs? does she use a light-weight wheelchair? Your last girlfriend weighed 18lbs, or 16lbs if you inflated her with helium! jk.

I got lost in the twin disc OEM part up there, my bad!

 

I suppose 15K isn't too bad ... although if driven and adjusted properly, the stock clutch can last well past 50K miles. Here's some food for thought:

- Get a SS clutch line and remove the clutch restrictor pill (your dealer should be able to do this)
- Get underhood shifter bushings and the in-car shifter bushings
- Keep BG synchroshift II in the tranny and change it every 3000-5000 miles
- adjust your clutch pedal so that it engages (read: the car starts to roll forward) no lower than 3" off the floor. Any lower, and you will most likely wear out your clutch very quickly. An article on how to adjust it is in the tech article section on www.evomoto.com
- try not to launch your car too hard. If you want to learn how to launch it, do it right before you are scheduled to have the new clutch installed. That way, if you fry your old clutch, it's not that big of a deal.
- keep your foot off the clutch at all times except for when you shift (yes, there are ppl that like to "rest" their foot on the clutch ... )

IMO your clutch choice will depend on a few factors:
1.) can you (and your knee) live with a heavier clutch pedal?
2.) do you really need a "better" clutch? (i.e. do you drag race a lot)

If the answer is no to both, then get the OEM replacement. If either answer is yes, then you've got some thinking to do...

l8r)

 

Hey Ludi, as usual, you post some very informative stuff. Have to get my clutch adjusted! Thanks again.

 

Well, Looks like i need to get me a SS Clutch line and adjust my clutch pedal. All that other stuff you posted i already do or have.

How hard is the line to change?? DIY project? Im good with tools and projects. My buddy has a ACT in his Evo, im gonna go drive it around town and determine if i can handle it. I dont do a heck of a lot of track stuff, but i mean i do MOD and or obvious reasons i will hit the track here and there to see what i can do. In a year ive been maybe twice so, thats pretty much sums up the major track time for me!!!

 

Ya think?

I'd talk to Andrew about it ... he has some thoughts on your setup and why your clutch is engaging so low.

Sean,

The SS clutch line isn't too difficult to install (http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...=3_4&tech_id=4) ... similar to SS brake lines, but more of a pain because of the location. I had my dealership install my SS clutch line and I told them to remove the restrictor pill while they were at it.

l8r)

 

Thanks Ludi, will call Andrew tomorrow. I havent told him I am shreadding another serpentine belt again, he changed one while on the Dyno, the last one ripped apart ca2K miles ago, and here goes another one!!!! Alternator bolts vibrated out, had to replace the alternator, the day you and Wayne left. I dont understand it! I DONT like to pay for parts which wont make the car faster!!!!!!!!!!

 

You are listening too much to rumors. Regarding lockout and ACT, read the whole threads, not just the titles. Lockout occurs on many (most) other clutches besides ACT, and for several reasons. The most common reason is simply mis-adjustment. I think our track record for the EVO over the last couple years speaks for itself. We have a ton of EVO clutches in the market so yeah, you are going to here more about ACT clutches than most others.

On the other hand the Exedy Twin is a fine clutch, but as with any clutch there are tradeoffs. In this case the Exedy is going be more noisy, harsher engaging, and more costly. IMO it is probably better suited for the track rather than the street, but it certainly can be used on the street. In fairness to Exedy, they make a few other versions besides the twin cerametallic that can be considered. For what this person is asking for I don't think he needs to spend three times the price and hold twice the power than what he is making. It doesn't make sense.

Warning: Shameless plug to follow
We make a few different ones too. We have guys that run consistent 9's in the 1/4 mile using off the shelf parts. If you have any questions about ACT email me directly at dstarksen@advancedclutch.com.