Anyone's Forge MBC do this too
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Evolving Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 226
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From: Downstate, NY
First, I want to thank you Mike for jumping into this thread. It's nice to see a vendor supporting their products. I am going to try to re-install the stiffer spring this weekend, and open up the coils enough to be sure it is seated. I figure it will be easier to swap mbc springs than to do a boost test since I don't have an air pump or anything. Hopefully the properly seated stiffer spring clocked all the way to "-" will solve the problems. On the other hand, if I'm still dropping pressure I'll know it's probably a small leak and I can start torquing everything down then.
Just to clear a few things up too: 1. The pressure source is coming directly from the turbo, not from the intake manifold. The mbc is mounted underneath where the stock airbox would be.
2. I'm not running the stock piping, I have buschur's upper and lower pipes, so I don't think a 25psi spike would have loosened them up, but it is possible i guess.
Also, Mike, you may want to consider adding a back page to the instructions and include a "blow-up" of the internal of the valve and make a point of noting how the springs should seat. It would be pretty easy to hand draw it even, and the increased clearity on the valve's function in the instructions would definitely increase customer satisfaction. Just some advice, you guys make a great product, and a little more included information would make it even better!
I'll let you guys know how it turns out tomorrow hopefully.
Just to clear a few things up too: 1. The pressure source is coming directly from the turbo, not from the intake manifold. The mbc is mounted underneath where the stock airbox would be.
2. I'm not running the stock piping, I have buschur's upper and lower pipes, so I don't think a 25psi spike would have loosened them up, but it is possible i guess.
Also, Mike, you may want to consider adding a back page to the instructions and include a "blow-up" of the internal of the valve and make a point of noting how the springs should seat. It would be pretty easy to hand draw it even, and the increased clearity on the valve's function in the instructions would definitely increase customer satisfaction. Just some advice, you guys make a great product, and a little more included information would make it even better!
I'll let you guys know how it turns out tomorrow hopefully.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Downstate, NY
Status update for anyone interested. I re-installed the stiffer spring and made some 4th gear pulls to set it up. To my surprise, on the most "-" setting I was only seeing about 15psi when most people saw around 22. I then adjusted it to where it is now @ 13 clicks and spiking to about 22psi and then running at 21 straight to 6000rpms where it falls to about 20. Unfortunately I don't have a datalogger, so I'm only using the stock boost gauge to get these readings, but I have been keeping a very close eye on everything. The car feels very strong, and has been breaking the wheels loose a little in 1st gear by just rolling into it not even by launching, which is wonderful, so I know the power is there.
But It seems the stiffer spring has solved the problem, I was just surprised to see that I had to come up so many clicks when most people say they leave it right at the bottom of the adjustments. But, that's my story atleast.
But It seems the stiffer spring has solved the problem, I was just surprised to see that I had to come up so many clicks when most people say they leave it right at the bottom of the adjustments. But, that's my story atleast.
Originally Posted by Trojan man
Status update for anyone interested. I re-installed the stiffer spring and made some 4th gear pulls to set it up. To my surprise, on the most "-" setting I was only seeing about 15psi when most people saw around 22. I then adjusted it to where it is now @ 13 clicks and spiking to about 22psi and then running at 21 straight to 6000rpms where it falls to about 20. Unfortunately I don't have a datalogger, so I'm only using the stock boost gauge to get these readings, but I have been keeping a very close eye on everything. The car feels very strong, and has been breaking the wheels loose a little in 1st gear by just rolling into it not even by launching, which is wonderful, so I know the power is there.
But It seems the stiffer spring has solved the problem, I was just surprised to see that I had to come up so many clicks when most people say they leave it right at the bottom of the adjustments. But, that's my story atleast.
But It seems the stiffer spring has solved the problem, I was just surprised to see that I had to come up so many clicks when most people say they leave it right at the bottom of the adjustments. But, that's my story atleast.
Sounds about right. Mine took 15 clicks to get the boost to spike at 22 and settle at ~20-21psi with the stiff spring.
This may be a dumb question, but does the MBC just replace the factory BCS? i.e. just take the two lines from the BCS and put them in the MBC? Or are there different places it needs to be hooked into? I just looked for a MBC install guide, and it tells you to cap of the turbo outlet port and use the BOV line, so obviously i'm not going to do that..
MBC's DO replace the OEM solenoid, but you DO NOT reuse the OEM lines.
The OEM lines have smal brass restrictors in them that should not be used in conjunstion with an aftermarket MBC. They are designed solely for the use with the OEM solenoid.
You will need to run new vacuum line.
We include some generic instructions explaining how it's done.
The OEM lines have smal brass restrictors in them that should not be used in conjunstion with an aftermarket MBC. They are designed solely for the use with the OEM solenoid.
You will need to run new vacuum line.
We include some generic instructions explaining how it's done.
It will depend on your setup.
If you have the stock lower intercooler piping, the nipple is on the piece that bolts to the turbo outlet.
If you have aftermarket piping or an aftermarket turbo setup altogether, it will depend on the setup. They're all different.
If you have the stock lower intercooler piping, the nipple is on the piece that bolts to the turbo outlet.
If you have aftermarket piping or an aftermarket turbo setup altogether, it will depend on the setup. They're all different.
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