The best way is to actually feel for the freeplay at the rod. You should be able to tell when the rod actually makes contact with the piston in the master cylinder, then back it off from there. You can also test for preloading, by cracking a fitting loose and see if it squirts at you, but that is testing for a symptom, not finding a cure.

 

The adjustment is at the pedal, not the transmission. We have some simple instructions that come with the clutch and you can also look at these sites for more detailed information:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...utchadjust.htm

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tech_id=28.

 

I have mine adjusted all the way out... I ran a 1.65 60ft 11.8@116 on my stock turbo w/smooth perfect shifts. But its wierd some days the lock-out dosent exist no matter how high I shift and other days it locks out over 7k everytime. It must be heat related

 

Dirk,

I think I understand what you're trying to say and believe there is some free play left

Lifter,

When you say all the way out does this mean 0 thread left on the nut side of the rod? Wow!

 

actually it is so far out that the bolt is halfway through the nut.

 

Damn! NO issues yet??

I was scare of the preload thing that Dirk mention so I didnt go that far. I might need to try this next time I'm at the track. I just hope I don't break something

 

Counting threads is a waste of time IMO, since each vehicle is different.

 

Dirk,

Does this mean I can adjust until the lock-out is gone keeping in mind the preload thing?

 

Yup! Unless something is wrong, you should be able to find a point that will shift while the engine is screaming that is not preloading the hydaulics. You will probably have to get used to it being on the high side, but it beats lockout. Keep in mind that if the parts are badly warped or some other issue, the adjustment may be way out of whack or no about of adjustment will be enough.

 

Given that thinking, an extender for the shaft *could* be useful?

 

Maybe on the master cylinder, but on the slave cylinder it's useless. Shorten it, lengthen it, paint it neon green, it won't matter. Any change on the slave cylinder end is going to be adjusted out by the master cylinder the same way it adjusts for normal wear.

OK, time for some clutch 101: With normal wear, the disc gets thinner which causes the diaphragm fingers to move, which pushes the rod further into the slave cylinder, which pushes fluid back thru the master cylinder and into the reservoir. A longer rod will do the same thing. But it doesn't change the amount of travel needed to operate.

Some have reasoned that because the worn out stock clutch had a higher engagement point, it must have been because of the rod being in a different position. This is FALSE. The reason why the engagement point is higher on a worn out clutch is because there is so little clamp load left to hold onto the disc, that it doesn't take much effort or foot travel to overcome this load and release the clutch. Of course that is not the case with a longer rod since the clamp load, etc has not changed.

 

Awesome, thanks for the education!