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timing belt help PLEASE....

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Old Nov 15, 2005, 04:13 PM
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timing belt help PLEASE....

Just installed a new Power Enterprise timing belt on the Evo. Everything seems fine but the belt seems to be more loose between the cam gears than it was with the factory T-belt.... I'm getting a little concerned..... For those who have installed the Power Enterprise T-belt, have you seen this type of change? The tensioner is currently set to what the service manual calls for, but belt is just a little to loose for my piece of mind... Thnx
Old Nov 15, 2005, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremypittman
Just installed a new Power Enterprise timing belt on the Evo. Everything seems fine but the belt seems to be more loose between the cam gears than it was with the factory T-belt.... I'm getting a little concerned..... For those who have installed the Power Enterprise T-belt, have you seen this type of change? The tensioner is currently set to what the service manual calls for, but belt is just a little to loose for my piece of mind... Thnx
Have your rotated the engine yet? (preferably by hand with a wrench on the engine cranK instead of actually starting it up).... Sometimes the cams will gravitate to a new position based on valve spring tension, and cause the belt to be loose between the gears. Taking it through two full rounds of engine revolution should clear up the problem.
Old Nov 15, 2005, 05:17 PM
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how did the install go? were there any culprits? how hard was it to get to all the bolts and to remove/reinstall serpentine belt. was there enough room to work on everything?

thanks
Old Nov 15, 2005, 09:09 PM
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They basically suck if you do them the proper way. Many people skimp on the procedure for this reason. IMO the water pump pulley is the real PIA because it is hard to get at. To use the access hole you have to get the engine really low.
Old Nov 15, 2005, 09:14 PM
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If he followed the procedure then he would have rotated the engine to check tensioner position. If that is the case and you have slack in the belt then you definetly have a problem.
But I am betting you did not have the pulley tool and did not set the pulley preload during the procedure. With that belt it is more important to get the tension right because the belt does not stretch like a stock belt. This can be very bad in the long run if it is too tight.
Old Nov 16, 2005, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dubbleugly01
Have your rotated the engine yet? (preferably by hand with a wrench on the engine cranK instead of actually starting it up).... Sometimes the cams will gravitate to a new position based on valve spring tension, and cause the belt to be loose between the gears. Taking it through two full rounds of engine revolution should clear up the problem.

Well here is what I found. We set the tension on the belt with the special tool. The only think that I cna find was causing the slack was when the cams would try to relax and turn toward each other. As quick as you turn the engine over clockwise the slack would be gone.

And yes, that water pump pulley is a PITA.... I used an offset open end wrench top get the bolts out. After driving for about 10 miles, all the slack is now gone. "Ding - dong the witch is dead" .... The only reason for the timing belt change was the special tool that is used to release the tension broke on me last week. I then had to drill out the piece that broke along with all the threads in the motor mount bracket. "this was no fun" Since I had the belt off I went ahead and installed a new one. No reason to go to all the trouble and not at least install a new belt.

End result

All is fine. New Helix adjustable geasr installed and new PE timing belt. Leaving for VIR this weekend. Thanks guys...
Old Nov 16, 2005, 08:02 AM
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With the top mount off you can get to the water pump bolts through the hole in the frame rail if you lower the engine. I believe that is why the hole is there.
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