Edit: Now that that has been taken care of, back to topic.

You can make good power with an intake if tuned, but you have to decide if the cost is worth the extra few HP over a drop-in. My car and many others go plenty fast on the stock turbo without an aftermarket intake.

 

Evil Evo 8, cut the crap.

 

Well, I just ordered the Bushur cone Intake and will be ordering a mail in dynoflash next week... I'll see how it goes...

I think I will do an analysis between cone and stock filters with my GtechPro RR. (I know, it's no Mustang....) in similar weather conditions.

 

Sirploppy

Wouuld you have any interest in selling me your stock air box? I need one

Thanks

 

The best daily drivers I've seen using "intakes" have been cone filters using the OE MAF pipe... quickly swapping ONLY the MAF pipe has resulted in a huge difference between a few 272/272 cammed car's idle, and low speed tip in response (using a Buscher cone filter with both). My MAF reading theory remains a reversion issue where the smooth aftermarket intake tubes allow much more reversion than the OE rippled pipe.

 

I believe in choosing any mod it comes down to

purpose vs reliability vs cost

Are you willing to sacrifice filtration for a few extra gains? Is the purpose of the car for daily driving vs track usage only? I believe a lot of people have pointed out certain parts of this already.

Panel = minor gain + low maintenance
Cone = med-high gain + med maintenance
Cone + Piping = high gain + med-high maintenance

I am not a big tuner myself, but I have talked to a lot of tuner garage and backyard based. It comes down to what you plan to use the car for and how much cash and time you want to fork over.

 

I believe what you are saying is the smooth aftermarket maf pipes are too smooth for the sensor to acurately adjust for? The ridges in the factory maf pipe may seem restrictive/turbulent for air flow, but in fact are needed for a smoother idle, tip-in, etc? Is this how reversion is applied in this theory?

 

I think I'm going to hold onto it in case I need to revert back to stock or go back to the dealership for any reason. I have no doubt they will void my drivetrain warranty if they see the cone...

 

Thermodynamics does definitely play a factor in the effectivness of a CAI, but actually we find the CAI very effectively primarily because the temperature increases on the intake temp (found on the maf sensor) cause the ecu to pull timing for eveyr few degrees of temperature increase. While not as apparent on the EVO (due to its relatively low timing) cars such as the Subaru are significantly affected by the use CAI. There's several degrees of timing being pulled as the temperature rises. This affect is more dramatic sometimes due to the heating of aluminum BIG MAF housings.

As far as the performance of the intakes, based on our testing (stock turbo cars with various mods), there is a very small gain (usually 2-3whp) with drop in filters, and much larger gains (usually 7-10whp) with most intake systems on stage 2+ cars.

Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S

 

what i did was buy one a used Ebay intake and took the pipe and modded it ot fit the stock ait box and i think it works fine. no problems from me.

 

umm...you need to factor in the time it takes to heat up the air in the intake. the colder the air, the quicker the air temp would drop

 

Your on the right track. Mitsu has tuned the ECU so it is adjusted to the nonlinearities created by the interaction between the OE intake geometries shaping the airflow and the MAF. When you change the way the maf interacts with the air flowing around it (by changing the parts used), the calibration is not as accurate as it once was.
An ideal bolt on intake would provide maximum flow with a minimum change in turbulence, air direction, etc. Mitsu's MAF appears to be far more sensitive to these changes, hence the fact that aftermarket intake systems behave better on other vehicles.

 

Cooler temperatures in the combustion chamber equals denser air which holds more oxygen which makes more power.

The intercooler can only lower the temps x number of degrees. In other words it is a constant in this equasion.

If the temps are lower when they hit the IC they come out the IC lower than if the temps coming in were higher. It is that simple.

I think the answer is a cone filter and smoother piping (HKS or Helix) with a cold air box of some type.

The only question is the number of degrees difference that a CAI would make vs. the temps without one. What that number is I do not know.

Shiv is correct in his stance that cooler air is better.

The non-stock intake needs to be tuned of course...

 

I don't like MAF's

 

what about ARC intake box?